Ditch the wheels ASAP those rims are Portly. Ours was 42LBS with FR tires and DH tubes we ran Butcher SX 2.5 front and back. I think next build tires will be the same BTW. I know the DHX fits not sure about the Vivid. You can email Rob and ask he may know off the top of his head.Hey guys, Just got myself a 2011 G1 frame. Chucked all my part off my Sunday which was 39lbs, with the zerode frame it comes in at 46lbs minus TI spring.
Just wondering what you guys did to counter the chainstays increasing in length making the front very hard to get up. Obviously it has to happen but any way to make it feel more poppy on the front.
Also any ideas on whether a vivid air will fit the 2011 and has anyone tried one?
any weight losing tips?
The Zerode thread
- Thread starter EVRAC
- Start date
I have been speaking to Rob about exactly this subject. The Alfine Di2 shifting motor sticks out a little bit more (see pic) but hopefully it'll still fit.
Unfortunately, the motor isn't retro-fitable to the standard Alfine but requires a specific hub.
The shifter is pretty cool, as is the gear indicator;
As for where to attach the battery, the Zerode is perfect! There is an inside-seatpost battery that could be accessed from below the top tube- nice and neat.
Looking forward to my G2 and experimenting with Di2.
Vivid air wont fit. they tried it a while ago.
I run a Canfield Jedi which also has rearward wheel travel. I struggled to corner, manual and bunnyhop when I first got onto the bike - cornering was the hardest part to adjust to. After getting some advice from another online Jedi rider I ended up running alot more LSC. There was no effect to ride through the chunk and it seemed to even help get on top of the chunk. In the end I found that 20% sag up front, 28-30% sag out back and with my Elka set LSC 17 clicks in from full open I can now rail corners and easily lift the front end when i need to. Never did like riding marshmellows but with these bikes you can really set them up a little firmer.Hey guys, Just got myself a 2011 G1 frame. Chucked all my part off my Sunday which was 39lbs, with the zerode frame it comes in at 46lbs minus TI spring.
Just wondering what you guys did to counter the chainstays increasing in length making the front very hard to get up. Obviously it has to happen but any way to make it feel more poppy on the front.
Also any ideas on whether a vivid air will fit the 2011 and has anyone tried one?
any weight losing tips?
Man I am loving these Zerodes and the near G2 in black or Charcoal is mental.
Black if you want it soonest. Charcoal isn't ready yet I don't think. Or pay a bit extra, wait a couple more weeks, and get whatever colour you want(from about 10 colours). Charcoal will look awesome I think. I'd have got that if it was ready. Black is always Black but. With the full stealth stickers, they'll look cool, but probably common.
I'm doubting that Di2 will fit dang it. I'll take my G2 to a Di2 seminar here in Oz tomorrow.If they have one I'll check it out.
I have a Vivid in my G2 at present for future reference.
I have a Vivid in my G2 at present for future reference.[/QUOTE said:
Cane Creek Double Barrel air fits in G2. Tight, but it fits. Are Vivid fatter? I'll be trying a Bos Void air tomorrow.
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The question is about the g1 and no the vivid air does not fit. Nor the cane creek I believe.
Question is how does she ride with it??????
Sorry, this is a Zerode thread so people will come looking for info on G2, so I thought best to have it all under the same question.
Zerode had said the DB air didn't fit the G1 but from memory I've seen photos of the Air in one, possibly even a Vivid air. I'd suggest trying to find a shock you can trial fit to be sure.
I'll be able to report on the Bos air shock, but not the Double Barrel air sorry, not my bike pictured. To be fair it probably needs a couple of weeks riding to break shock in, get used to G2 and get shock dialed. I know of a guy getting a G2 in a couple of weeks with CC DB air. Will get a review from him in a month. I'm going to get a coil shock for rocky tracks, and run the Bos air for everything else I'm guessing. Time will tell. I'm not a fan of inconsistent shocks(air)due to heat. But the new Zerodes shock guard will let a lot more air flow through. Will share my findings. Our tracks here are only 8 minutes long max also.
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Yeah I am looking to get a CCDB air to test. The longest rough trail the bike will hit is about 3800 feet in 4 miles mostly rock Kirkalde and Rennie could do it in 8 to 9 minutes me about 18 ah ah these days but it will heat up the shock like an oven.
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Kirkalde! Holy **** there's a name I haven't heard in a while! Mad hucker. Such a sick racer to watch.
Finally started making a Zelvy gearbox guard today. Repaired KNTR's east coast rocks guard too like new.
And BOS did some testing on their new Void air shock. Runs cooler than the coil by quite a few degrees. So I don't think there will be a problem on the Zerode with overheating.
And BOS did some testing on their new Void air shock. Runs cooler than the coil by quite a few degrees. So I don't think there will be a problem on the Zerode with overheating.
Sweet. They have access to bigger hills than me, so should be good.
Well.......any news?
What's the apeal with di2. The shifter is not that great for grabbing a couple of gears. It's 2 buttons next to each other. I'd imagine the likelyhood of hitting the wrong button goes up.
And you have to charge a battery. What's wrong with the cable shift. It's still better than any derailer I've used.
And you have to charge a battery. What's wrong with the cable shift. It's still better than any derailer I've used.
True......but, i hear great reports of di2 on road bikes.
I used to think the same as you (mechanical system is preferable to an electronic one) but all these great reports have me intrigued.
To me the shifter looks interesting- apparently the system is programmable to give multiple shifts if you hold the button down longer. It wouldn't be a huge leap of technology to have a -button on the left grip and a +button on the right grip. That would be cool.
Yes, there has to be a battery, but apparently it is small and light and lasts for ages.
I'm not saying that the di2 system WILL be better but, rather, that any leap into alternative tech interests me.
We have sold a TON of Di2 to roadie nerds around here. Most people get above 3000 shifts per battery charge! In fact it lasts so long that most just have a day on a calender as a reminder. The buttons feel nice for sure. I hope he gets it to work. I would for sure use it and see what one I liked the best.......
Cool I hear where your coming from fr sure. Di2 on road bikes with ok. I setup a few for customers when I lived in Canada.
It was precise for sure but it was not as smooth as the cable controlled Durace that it replaced.
Having to think about holding down the shifter to try and shift a few gears is working against you on a downhill run. Keep it simple. And zerodes have simplified shifting to let you shift when ever you like.
It was precise for sure but it was not as smooth as the cable controlled Durace that it replaced.
Having to think about holding down the shifter to try and shift a few gears is working against you on a downhill run. Keep it simple. And zerodes have simplified shifting to let you shift when ever you like.
http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2013/03/06/closer-look-rob-englishs-tt-mk2
Rob English just won the NAHMBS best in show with this TT bike. Separate shifters for up/down shifts and all the Di2 gubbins neatly fitted into the frame.
Rob English just won the NAHMBS best in show with this TT bike. Separate shifters for up/down shifts and all the Di2 gubbins neatly fitted into the frame.
Sure makes great sense on a Tt bike and a road bike. Shifting on mountain bikes is a different ball game. So much else going on. I think it's a very market specific product.
it sucks when i break a $70-90 rear derailleur, i couldnt imagine breaking a Di2
di2 in a DH thread... 
I just shot pictures of a $760 dollar one....... same dudes buy $3K wheels and $2500 cranks......
I missed the Di2 seminar unfortunately. A mate got pics for me though, so should be able to suss it out.
I too don't think I'll bother running it. There's no weight saving, and at the moment the Zerode needs a turn on the barrel adjuster at worst every three months. The Zerodes always ready to ride character isn't worth changing for lower performing electronic shifting IMO. Hitting a button twice wouldn't be a hassle though to multi shift. You can shift in the air easily with the Sram modded shifter, so it's not like shifting takes a lot of your energy or deflects the bars. You can also feel the shift through the cable when pedaling, something you'll loose with electric shifting.
I too don't think I'll bother running it. There's no weight saving, and at the moment the Zerode needs a turn on the barrel adjuster at worst every three months. The Zerodes always ready to ride character isn't worth changing for lower performing electronic shifting IMO. Hitting a button twice wouldn't be a hassle though to multi shift. You can shift in the air easily with the Sram modded shifter, so it's not like shifting takes a lot of your energy or deflects the bars. You can also feel the shift through the cable when pedaling, something you'll loose with electric shifting.
Thank you!
So the manual says 94 links on the rear chain. I just installed a new chain and matched it up with the old one and ended up at 93. Even at that it's still pretty floppy and isn't putting much tension on the chain tensioner. Any reason why the chain needs to be run really loose or should I pull another link out?
Its hard to tell without seeing it but the chain is generaly a bit on the loose side but tightens a bit when sagged. I would make it the same length as the chain on it bcuz that was perfect all year
The only way you could have 93 links is if you use a half link. Otherwise, it's even numbers only. I tend to just count outer links, in which case you'd need 47. Or 46 if that fits better.
Chain length will depend on the size of your rear cog. Best bet is to cycle the shock with the spring off to make sure it is long enough..... but not too long.
Chain length will depend on the size of your rear cog. Best bet is to cycle the shock with the spring off to make sure it is long enough..... but not too long.
That wasn't counting the quick link so I guess that puts me at 94. Sitting in the stand (without a shock) the chain is resting on the upper chainstay. Cycling the rear all the way through way past where it would normally go the chain tensions up but the tensioner is far from maxed out.
To broad a statements sorry. If in doubt, remove spring, bottom out, cut chain to length to suit it bottomed with tensioner close to maxed out.
Is it a 21tooth sprocket on the back? is it spaced in line with the tensioner and Alfine sprocket. Can you take some photos of tensioner and rear sprocket with nobody on bike? Maybe you need anew tensioner. Sounds like there might be other resistance though. How strong is the tensioner spring? There's lots of things you could try, like tensioning spring more, but I'd set it up with the right chain length first. and only try messing with tensioner spring if competent and it actually needs it. Brake it and you'll have to buy a new one.
Is it a 21tooth sprocket on the back? is it spaced in line with the tensioner and Alfine sprocket. Can you take some photos of tensioner and rear sprocket with nobody on bike? Maybe you need anew tensioner. Sounds like there might be other resistance though. How strong is the tensioner spring? There's lots of things you could try, like tensioning spring more, but I'd set it up with the right chain length first. and only try messing with tensioner spring if competent and it actually needs it. Brake it and you'll have to buy a new one.
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Setting up this bike is making me feel like I don't know what I'm doing, all over again. Hopefully my stupid questions will help someone else down the road.
21t rear sproket. No one one bike. Shock unbolted. 94 links, brand new chain.
rear suspension compressed to the point that it's hitting the seat, way further than it could ever travel on it's own with a shock bolted up
tensioner spring feels plenty strong and has lots of resistance.
21t rear sproket. No one one bike. Shock unbolted. 94 links, brand new chain.
rear suspension compressed to the point that it's hitting the seat, way further than it could ever travel on it's own with a shock bolted up
tensioner spring feels plenty strong and has lots of resistance.
Looks fine. Taking it for a ride to find out, could have ripped tensioner off if chain was too short and you bottomed it out.
The only other thing to learn, is how to adjust the cable tension once you've used up the barrel adjust. That's a PITA at first, really annoying. Once you know what's going on it takes just a minute. Other than that, there's nothing else to it.
I'd buy a spare tensioner for your tool box. Their spring snapping is the only thing on a Zerode that could stop you riding. and even then you could just find something elastic enough like a few hair ties or rubber bands and tie the tensioner up to the chain stay with a Zip tie so it keeps chain tension.
You know about lining up the two yellow dots in 4th gear to adjust gears right?
That rear sprocket looks pretty worn for a new chain, is it just the pics? You'll know if it jumps or not.
The only other thing to learn, is how to adjust the cable tension once you've used up the barrel adjust. That's a PITA at first, really annoying. Once you know what's going on it takes just a minute. Other than that, there's nothing else to it.
I'd buy a spare tensioner for your tool box. Their spring snapping is the only thing on a Zerode that could stop you riding. and even then you could just find something elastic enough like a few hair ties or rubber bands and tie the tensioner up to the chain stay with a Zip tie so it keeps chain tension.
You know about lining up the two yellow dots in 4th gear to adjust gears right?
That rear sprocket looks pretty worn for a new chain, is it just the pics? You'll know if it jumps or not.
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I saw that in the manual and have been meaning to do it. I have to take the chains off to see the dots?
And ATF/gear oil? How often are people squirting that into the alfine?
That chainring is pretty worn. I suppose I should grab a new one and a spare tensioner.
And ATF/gear oil? How often are people squirting that into the alfine?
That chainring is pretty worn. I suppose I should grab a new one and a spare tensioner.
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http://www.14degrees.org/en/?p=4993
http://www.deletethe.net/instructables/alfine8/
You can go a step furthur by drilling & tapping a hole to add a bolt so you don't need to disassemble the thing to change oil (The Rohloff way of doing it)
You won't need a spare tensioner. It wont break. Haven't seen or heard of one breaking.
The chain won't rub anywhere or make noise and you will be scared from the silence.
And you don't have to remove chains to see the dots they are easily visible from under the bike.
I have had my Zerode since the first run of frames and have not oiled the gearbox. It is sealed in oil. No grit or dirt in , no oil out.
They ran the proto for 2 years of elite level dh and daily runs and never oiled it.
The chain won't rub anywhere or make noise and you will be scared from the silence.
And you don't have to remove chains to see the dots they are easily visible from under the bike.
I have had my Zerode since the first run of frames and have not oiled the gearbox. It is sealed in oil. No grit or dirt in , no oil out.
They ran the proto for 2 years of elite level dh and daily runs and never oiled it.