Do not disagree.
6'3" 185pound Cat1 racer, wanted a stiff(!) bike for straight up, straight down crits.
3.75pounds. BOMBPROOF.
This bike is rad
- Thread starter SuspectDevice
- Start date
Do not disagree.
6'3" 185pound Cat1 racer, wanted a stiff(!) bike for straight up, straight down crits.
3.75pounds. BOMBPROOF.
I presume to make room for the rider's knees and not compromise stiffness.
No bike pic thread is complete w/o: Looks Flexy.
No bike pic thread is complete w/o: Looks Flexy.
When the bike is correctly assembled it looks a lot less weird.
It's a straight up the hill straight down the hill specific crit bike. Some dude in Bermuda. Sounds rough.
The formig the best way we could think of to add as much lateral stiffness in the front end of possible while still being able to have your knees clear the toptube. Since the headtube is so long we can't rely as much on weld overlap/etc.
Also, it's getting a sweet paint job that is going to really utilize the hell out of the shape. Like a motha****in freight train.
To give you some perspective we often use it as a downtube.
The downtube is a 2" bi-axially ovalized unit. PF30bb(I frikkin hate those things after building a bunch of bikes with them), Tapered enve fork up front. Rear end is tapered bent and bi-axially ovalized 7/8ths.
The stays are 1" with a single oval.
Our standard 1" hooded dropouts complete the package.
FTW forms all of the tubes by hand. It's pretty fun to watch.
Frank had to talk me out of using one inch square tubing like we use on the DS bikes.
It would have been so gnarly. The only weight goal was to keep it under 4 pounds. I think we could have made it.
It's a straight up the hill straight down the hill specific crit bike. Some dude in Bermuda. Sounds rough.
The formig the best way we could think of to add as much lateral stiffness in the front end of possible while still being able to have your knees clear the toptube. Since the headtube is so long we can't rely as much on weld overlap/etc.
Also, it's getting a sweet paint job that is going to really utilize the hell out of the shape. Like a motha****in freight train.
To give you some perspective we often use it as a downtube.
The downtube is a 2" bi-axially ovalized unit. PF30bb(I frikkin hate those things after building a bunch of bikes with them), Tapered enve fork up front. Rear end is tapered bent and bi-axially ovalized 7/8ths.
The stays are 1" with a single oval.
Our standard 1" hooded dropouts complete the package.
FTW forms all of the tubes by hand. It's pretty fun to watch.
Frank had to talk me out of using one inch square tubing like we use on the DS bikes.
It would have been so gnarly. The only weight goal was to keep it under 4 pounds. I think we could have made it.
He wouldn't let me put gussets all over it either. Smart guy.
So what would happen if you tried to braze/bond a flat sheet of alu or other material inside a tube to improve uni-axial stiffness?
Edit: The more I think about it the dumber it is but could make for some stealthiness.
Edit: The more I think about it the dumber it is but could make for some stealthiness.
Seems like it'd be easier to draw tubes in that profile to start with rather than trying to get something attached the full length of the tube.
Italians tried all sorts of stuff like that in the 90's. It doesn't do anything. Rad idea though.
(I don't know what uni-axial means, btw)
Ok, just did a little crude approximation, adding a rib of thickness equal to the wall thickness for some pretty typical bike tubing makes it about 18% stiffer along the axis of the rib, but adding that same amount of material to the tube walls directly makes it more like 26% stiffer, and not just in one axis, so it's kinda pointless. Presumably if you want to tune stiffness in different directions you're presumably better off ovalizing tubes, though I'm too lazy to calculate that one right now.
I will have no discussion of percentages in this thread.
I'm with you that the typical "Standard XYZ is ___% ____er than standard ABC" stuff is typically bull**** but this is just some really simple mechanical engineering...
We're putting a pretty rad paint job on it too.
I have until Wednesday to figure out what it's going to be. My local hot-rod shop is pretty dialed....
It's good when investment bankers trickle down on me.
I have until Wednesday to figure out what it's going to be. My local hot-rod shop is pretty dialed....
It's good when investment bankers trickle down on me.
Looks quite interesting.
Question: why a PFBB30 vs. regular BB30? Is it for ease of manufacture? Availability of PF30 shells?
Question: why a PFBB30 vs. regular BB30? Is it for ease of manufacture? Availability of PF30 shells?
We did drawings for an importer and they gave us a bunch of free ones.
That is pretty darn cool.
No internal cable routing?
NICOLAI Maschinenbau GmbH
Look at this monster... square stays, adj drops, disc mounts, is it a DJ bike, or touring bike, lol.
Look at this monster... square stays, adj drops, disc mounts, is it a DJ bike, or touring bike, lol.
Back from paint and looking badass.
Painting bikes is fun.
Painting bikes is fun.
Your bikes look better with paint, Mickey. Keep up the color.
I think paint is too expensive, but the fact that the bikes leave the house with a higher ticket price is good. We're even with a steel I.F. now.
If only I had the mental abilities to efficiently run a business!
If only I had the mental abilities to efficiently run a business!
Wow, that came out gorgeous.
I need to see parts on it to "tie the room together"
Just got orders for three more of them.
The guy with the bike above wants us to keep it for NAHBS.
It's going to cost so much money but the stuff we'll be bringing to the show is going to be sick.
All FTW cares about is winning that ****.
Eye on the prize.... all that matters.
Customer sent me a teaser.
Meow.
Meow.
oof, that's sweet.
That is a sweet paint job
SRAM cranks on Shimano drivetrain...just sayin'Customer sent me a teaser.
Meow.
Nice work, Mickey. That bike is rad.
Yeah, he's got it backwards. Should be Shimano cranks on a SRAM drivetrain.
But then he'd have to use BB30 reducers (at least on this frame).
Campy reducers and campy cranks(w/red) would be my prefence.
BB30/PF30 sucks on every front IMO.
BB30/PF30 sucks on every front IMO.