7.5lbs between each spring rate kinda sucks. As it is the 5lbs you get from Push/Vorsprung is very roughly equivalent to 50lb rear shock increments.
This is what's right with The Industry®
- Thread starter Jm_
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Who are their spring rates for? I hope they're not like the others where the super-duper heavy-duty spring is for someone who is like 215.
hopefully the stanchions don't snap like the 2000's
Truth.
I float in the 200-220lb range, and am forever flipping between the Firm and X-Firm on my '13 888Ti. I have no idea what you would do if you were a bit more sasquatchy, at least the 66 had air assist.
this makes me cringe. thankfully modern single crowns seem to be immune to such disasters. pretty impressive the amount of abuse they can withstand, actually.
still have the remains of my Z1 double stanchion snapper on the book shelf as a reminder to never buy marzocchi ever fucking again, would've preferred if they just let that company fully die.
Remember the Boxxer L-Turn?
marzocchi's used to break?
FPIS
Jesus.... all these broken Marzocchis fly in the face of the popular wisdom of the time..."built heavy/built to last" etc.
I had no idea I was gambling with my face.
I had no idea I was gambling with my face.
see how there are still v-brake bosses? once those went away things coincidentally started getting better
noticing a theme? years ago i used to get flamed for posting dirt jump pics in just the dickies hat. so after that, when something broke, for fun i got a picture of myself 'crashing' in just my hat to try to fan the flames...
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That's some first class sneaky trolling!
Nailed it!
Except for #10 of course...
www.mbr.co.uk
Except for #10 of course...
Top 10 overrated mountain bike features - MBR
Some innovations aren't entirely essential or even desirable. Here's a rundown of our Top 10 overrated mountain bike features.
www.mbr.co.uk
i actually use the geo adjust thinger on my megatrail. not often, but i use it.Nailed it!
Except for #10 of course...
Top 10 overrated mountain bike features - MBR
Some innovations aren't entirely essential or even desirable. Here's a rundown of our Top 10 overrated mountain bike features.
#6 IMO is getting a little cloudy. Probably more dependent on where you live if anything. But for trail riding and if you're a competent rider, you can definitely get away with a 150-160ish travel bike for DH and mellow riding. I use my Banshee Rune for everything and have no complaints. My DH bike is listed for sale and I'll be selling my light carbon (agreed with #8 and #4) Transition Scout shortly. Get a bike with great geometry and be a dick about it etc etc etcNailed it!
Except for #10 of course...
Top 10 overrated mountain bike features - MBR
Some innovations aren't entirely essential or even desirable. Here's a rundown of our Top 10 overrated mountain bike features.
That said, if I lived closer to something like Bromont or Whistler, hell yeah I'd have a DH bike. Because why not?
I'd say most of them -with the notable exception of Boost (hey Trek and Fox, I hope your fucking enginerds get testicular cancer for that shit!) are just ellucubrations of a nagy old crone.Nailed it!
Except for #10 of course...
Top 10 overrated mountain bike features - MBR
Some innovations aren't entirely essential or even desirable. Here's a rundown of our Top 10 overrated mountain bike features.
I hate boost as the next monkey, but if you convert old hubs, you end up with nice even spoke tension on both sides of the hub, and my wheels stay true longer now. But, this certainly wasn't the intended benefit, so fuck Trek in the ass with a red hot poker.
I agree it's cloudy. I think part of the issue is the companies that go way too far in one direction, like way too steep seat tube and slack HTA and 12" BB with session IPA starter-kit. Then these bikes are marketed as "all around" somehow and tested as "not that bad" when in reality they do tend to suck unless you are pointing them down steep stuff all the time or on the fireroad with the shock locked. The true "all around" bike is milder, still able to rip DH under a competent rider, but not so far in one direction that it will snap off a drop or pedal like a wet mattress.#6 IMO is getting a little cloudy. Probably more dependent on where you live if anything. But for trail riding and if you're a competent rider, you can definitely get away with a 150-160ish travel bike for DH and mellow riding. I use my Banshee Rune for everything and have no complaints. My DH bike is listed for sale and I'll be selling my light carbon (agreed with #8 and #4) Transition Scout shortly. Get a bike with great geometry and be a dick about it etc etc etc
That said, if I lived closer to something like Bromont or Whistler, hell yeah I'd have a DH bike. Because why not?
I love my carbon fiber, short chainstayed, light weight 29er bike, and I wish it had less travel. I wouldn't give up my clutch either. Internal routing is stupid when you're installing, and then it's pretty slick- particularly if it's on the derailleur and not brakes. Adjustable geometry is stupid in the concept of adjusting every 5 minutes, but I think it's great if you want to set up your bike to your liking. I wouldn't want my shit any slacker, but there's usually an option for that.
My gripe with internal routing is.....
....
....
There is more housing drag with an extra 2.5 feet of housing.
And that they bang around unless you put foam on em or zip ties
Getting rid of the front derailuers i think rd cables should be external
Have had none of those problems. Well designed internal cables are pretty easy to set up. Not all are well designed of course, so they kind of set up the bad taste that a lot of people get. It's nice that DT thought that his bike should be rugged with external cables, but there's less stuff to snag on my Pivot and not 12 little cable guide things that can loosen and fall out. Slapping cables inside of the frame is kind of bizarre, I know some people have said it happens, but I have to think this is real real limited, because cables aren't "weighted" to where they'd be flopping around with every bump. I don't require internal, I do require full length housing, but I definitely don't hate internal routing. If your bike uses extra length to run the internal housing, they are doing it wrong.
i have no issues with most of the things that list bitches about. bring you "OK X'ER" comments, bitchez.
I have a pivot 5.5 and a mondraker summum.
The summum was used, by a wacko, i mean euro the brakes were swapped, he also swapped the routing in the frame. When i went to unfuck it it had 3 zip ties every 6" on the bake line and derailuer cable. I thought "what is this fuckery?" and unfucked the routing. Rode it and..... Tacka tacka tacka through the rough, in goes the jagwire damper foam and lots of zip ties.....
The pivot is ok but all of them have the brake and rear derailuer cable hanging out below the bb, thats a snag hazard if ive ever seen one.....
It only knocked because I left my dropper cable full length and have to stuff some in the frame as to not have a tripple tailwhip length cable. Why? So i can simply turn my bars and pull my dropper post, vs having to remove the dropper lever.
Youve never had a problem with housing drag?
Well yeah they work, but having half as much housing=half as much drag....
If it were up to me i would run the rd internal or external, but the old way with bosses so you dont need 46ft of housing.
Id run the dropper internal, with or without the bosses. But id bring it external near the bb and hook it up top to the old style ks external.
Super easy to remove your post thay way.
maybe run the brake hose through a tube.
My pivot only has the derailleur cable going under the BB, never had any issue with it, unlike the specialized enduro that had cables going under the BB and then all wacky to the brake, sawed through a good portion of the seatstay. I say that the pivot cables work pretty well, plus it's kind of a hybrid-internal, only halfway really, with the big Di2 door to align everything/work it out.
Where are you getting all this extra cable length? My cables are literally the exact same length on my internally routed frames. It's not like they loop around or anything. What is making your cables longer?
I'd rather run full length housing externally mounted. The problem that full length housing solved was contamination. I can go waaaaay longer between replacing cables than I did with non-full length.
You guys are debating internal vs external housing like it’s 1990, the industry invented AXS so you don’t even need cables, get your credit cards out and get with the times
This discussion kinda begs the question: have any frames tried to do internally-routed, non-full length housing?
That would seem to have a possible performance upside, vs internally routed full length housing, which is purely for aesthetics.
Side note: my new XT 12spd set-up has noticeably stiff shifter lever action.
That would seem to have a possible performance upside, vs internally routed full length housing, which is purely for aesthetics.
Side note: my new XT 12spd set-up has noticeably stiff shifter lever action.
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Ooooh, you mean the old exposed cables that collect dirt and jam up the shifting. Yes, there is less resistance in those...until they jam up with dirt and screw up the shifting. So glad we are done with that and not having to change housing ever few months like back in the 1990s.