I got the AXS because it's really durable and self protecting. The new shimano derailleur is made of cheese. The only Sram available were GX or AXS. GX mechanical has to much play. Spare battery will fit in the pocket or bag if concerned. Shifting with large jumps in the cassette is pretty slow on mechanical drivetrains. Not with electric.
This is what's right with The Industry®
- Thread starter Jm_
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It's preprogrammed. No hacks out yet.
Dammit! Hopefully someone hacks the app.
Im wrong. The rare new shimano 11 speed will work apparently.
Hey, care to elaborate?
There's an 11 speed XTR cassette based on the 12 speed micro cassette without the largest cog. So the spacing will work with AXS and you can turn in the low limit screw to make it work. The issue is you don't save much weight and the cage is just as long. But if you only want 11 gears it's possible.
Kind of suprised it has physical limit screws. If you do that and try to shift into the 12th gear, will the motor just give up trying when it hits the limit?
Do AXS RDs still have a spring that they work against when shifting up?
Yes. I can make it so it won't shit into first on a 12speed.
No visible spring. And more thinking a regular mec cage bolts on if you damage it. So a shorter cage 11 speed cage might work. But the jockey is offset like most 12 speeds.
all major brake player on mineral oil
while hayes may not necessarily be considered a "major player" these days, the consensus on the a4 is that its one of the better brakes on the market, and uses dot 5.1
Thats a shame, I didn't notice that. I actually squeezed some the other day, they felt nice and solid. Hefty though..
I don't even look at weights of parts, just use what works.
Mineral oil is so much easier and better to use though. The dot fluid always ruins the tubes and rubber on my bleed kits (Sram ones, even) and heaven forbid some of it leaks on the work bench.
And its just more work if you have both fluids in use on bikes - have to scrub and clean all the bleed stuff before moving to a different bike. If all the bikes in my shed only used mineral oil it'd be much easier, just wipe down all the equipment and put it away in the box.
Luckily bicycle engineers are smarter than anyone else and therefore have found the perfect fluid for filling hydraulic brakes. I just cannot understand why those slacker automotive engineers have not seen the light.
Luckily bicycle engineers are smarter than anyone else and therefore have found the perfect fluid for filling hydraulic brakes. I just cannot understand why those slacker automotive engineers have not seen the light.
Luckily bicycle engineers are smarter than anyone else and therefore have found the perfect fluid for filling hydraulic brakes. I just cannot understand why those slacker automotive engineers have not seen the light.
whoa. sram just leaked a new "ebike specific brake" that uses mineral oil
DB8
video as long as its up:
DB8
video as long as its up:
Probably because ebike riders need all the help they can get and can't be trusted with DOT bleeds.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/db-db8-a1
DESCRIPTION
DB8 is our simple, robust, and powerful brake for riders who prefer to set and forget. The low maintenance Mineral Oil system uses proven lever technologies and features easy adjustment access and superior ergonomic comfort. Code-like power is no surprise, as DB8 utilizes similar caliper architecture and existing brake pads.
MSRP
$137
MODEL ID
DB-DB8-A1
FEATURES
New lever optimized for tool access.
Code-like power.
Uses existing Code pads.
Designed for use with Maxima Mineral Oil only.
Designed for use with SRAM Mineral Oil Bleed Kit only.
DESCRIPTION
DB8 is our simple, robust, and powerful brake for riders who prefer to set and forget. The low maintenance Mineral Oil system uses proven lever technologies and features easy adjustment access and superior ergonomic comfort. Code-like power is no surprise, as DB8 utilizes similar caliper architecture and existing brake pads.
MSRP
$137
MODEL ID
DB-DB8-A1
FEATURES
New lever optimized for tool access.
Code-like power.
Uses existing Code pads.
Designed for use with Maxima Mineral Oil only.
Designed for use with SRAM Mineral Oil Bleed Kit only.
Looks like an entry level brake below the current Code offerings.
over on vital it was mentioned that it seems to be targeted as OEM
the cat is out of beta
I like that DOT fluid can clean up with water. The effects on metal/paint have been wildly over-stated in the past, as if a little dripping will strip your frame or something. Heck, the parts they are using this in are anodized themselves and that's not coming off. The most important part though is how consistent they are through temperature, such as cold and warm. I ride from about -30 to 95 (-34 to 35C) and they simply work consistently, vs. mineral oil that goes super slow around single digit F. In many cases they still "work", but the effective lever travel is zero with no modulation, only off/on and control is significantly compromised. Secondary to that is ability to work with heat, such as on 50% grades that I tend to do, but I'm not sure this is just about the fluid, it seems to be about the rotors and other parts too.
horses for courses??? different use, different requirements?Luckily bicycle engineers are smarter than anyone else and therefore have found the perfect fluid for filling hydraulic brakes. I just cannot understand why those slacker automotive engineers have not seen the light.
Good explanation of why my car brakes worked on the way to the trailhead, but my bicycle brakes were shit. Granted, not everyone rides in the cold, but the wandering bite point seems like a bigger problem in just a little chillier weather when you are on steeps, something with the replenishment orifice size in the shimano brakes and how quickly that is overwhelmed by the mineral oil. I remember distinctly the issue at Darrington down those trails in the Fall, one of the last times I was on those brakes in any normal-ish conditions.
I guess that is why the dimensions get adjusted to the weight the brakes are supposed to stop.
What’s the boiling point of the two?
There’s more than just “dry” boiling point, wet boiling point is important because DOT can absorb water and not leave water in its separate form. Water will boil at 100C and turn into gas. That’s what we don’t want. Water makes its way into all systems over time, so the longer you run the fluid, the more stable DOT is and the more and more mineral gets affected by water in the system. I’ve had mineral oil brakes feeling like crap under tons of heat. I thought they were overheating due to the 203 rotors not being enough, but the brakes were baking in all ways possible. For car racing, you want the best high temp fluid you can get. They’re are some other problems, as not all your other parts like brake lines, seals, etc. can deal with that heat, even though the fluid can handle it. Some people use titanium shims for the pads to provide a little more insulation.