Really. I just got mine so we'll see.
This is what's right with The Industry®
- Thread starter Jm_
- Start date
I've had them on a bunch of bikes and they've been great. How'd you break 'em?
Any aluminum valve stem can easily snap with lateral load. They require care when using a hand pump. Even indelicately removing a floor pump head can snap them. Once I learned this and have been careful about it I haven't broken any more.
so.........'trash'
The filmores DO flow quite nicely, and have a lifetime warranty if you get ham fisted on them...
So, I was given some early this season. I broke one with ‘overzealous’ pumping. I sent them a note admitting that, and they sent me two pairs of the new version right away.
so, one step backward, two steps forward, or something like that?
so, one step backward, two steps forward, or something like that?
Haha, P Train.
P Train
Named after the New York City Subway lines, the P train is a mythical train whose riders demonstrate behavior which labels them a pussy. Most frequently used to describe a person who leaves the bar first or without sufficient reason when out with friends or colleagues. Also applicable to someone who exclusively drinks lite beer. Unlike the non fictional Subway lines, whose letter or number designations do not stand for anything, the P in 'P Train' stands for pussy.
Anthony: How many Amstel Lites have you had tonight?
Andy: One and a half, I'm wasted. I need to leave now.
Will: Its only 7:30, Andy's definitely riding the P Train tonight.
FTFY.
Agreed, they are a significant improvement over any other tubeless valve I've used.
Tons of broken valves?
Yeah, the safe move is to stick with brass valves from Stan's, but "safe" is for you plebs. I'm over here saving grams.
Oh yeah that one was awesome. I got stung by a bee on my lower back right before a blind drop, chaos ensued.
The one where I broke the valve wasn't really that cool, I just washed the rear out in a greasy corner and tried to hop over the bars to bail out. I cleared the bars without getting tripped up but came down with my foot through the rear wheel as the bike spun around.
Fair.
@Westy and I have drunk a bunch of beer together but still haven't ever ridden bikes. We should fix that.
Broke another Fillmore on my first stage last week. (One up pump as well). Using truly exceptional caution while pumping. This is three this year. There were a few pro mechanics at the event, we had a good discussion, all agreed that they are too fragile. I am interested in some brass ones, that would be an improvement.
(I put in an Easter egg here for you)
(I put in an Easter egg here for you)
That looks like a "push to seal" pump. I don't like those because they press the valve into the rim, compressing the top o-ring and trying to let air in around the base of the valve in the rim. If your **** is tight enough it might not break the seal...but you are basically applying force in the direction that will break the seal, plus having to apply force on the valve the entire time. That and twist-to-seal/lock which eventually unscrews your core, my two least favorite connections. Lever-to-lock and push-to-lock (syncros, c-dale) are my favorites by far. The push-to-seal usually makes for the lightest and most compact pump...but works shitty as a pump.
Maybe try the ones from 76 projects ?
call me when someone makes an insert compatible schrader tubeless valve.
They do, in aluminum even.
949 Racing Aluminum Valves – Jackson Racing
jacksonracing.com
Bunch of people in AZ drilled there rims and were using these. No idea if they still are, but supposedly they worked just fine.
those are not insert compatible.949 Racing Aluminum Valves – Jackson Racing
Looks like they are in stock from their own website. Maybe I should drill out mine..