They’ve moved their production to china now. Used to be US.Revelate just replaced two zips on my 12 year old frame bag for a very reasonable price.
I'd read that on their site while looking to get this repair done. They couldn't find a supplier in America who could do the work to their required volumes, at least I vaguely recall that's what was on their website.They’ve moved their production to china now. Used to be US.
This is the main reason I'm reluctant to acquire an Outbound light. I've always felt I wanted a nice tight spot on my helmet, that illuminates the trail fair ahead, where my eyes are looking. I've often found that having light too close to my front wheel only serves to wash out my ability to see in the distance (as your eyes adjust to the level of light closest to you).I've had that Outbound light since 2020 but use my iTuo more since I actually want a focused pattern
I'm also not using it for trail riding, but rather 20-25 mph e-bike commuting on a paved multiuse path. I do want focused, long throw light for that.This is the main reason I'm reluctant to acquire an Outbound light. I've always felt I wanted a nice tight spot on my helmet, that illuminates the trail fair ahead, where my eyes are looking. I've often found that having light too close to my front wheel only serves to wash out my ability to see in the distance (as your eyes adjust to the level of light closest to you).
I've never had the opportunity to try these out (or know anyone who has them) and see for myself whether their vaunted beam pattern works for me. So it's good to get some real world feedback!
keep us posted how it works out? the only time I need/want max light is when I'm going downhill (so faster than average). the rest of the time, I'll happily chug along at medium brightness.I'm also not using it for trail riding, but rather 20-25 mph e-bike commuting on a paved multiuse path. I do want focused, long throw light for that.
I might add in one of their helmet lights, though, as seeing around the corner really has no substitute and tech has advanced such that the battery is integrated, really a better option for helmets than a cable down one's neck.
Yeah, it's a logistical constraint. It makes the most sense, except having the brightest light on your head also takes the most battery, where there's nowhere to put it. The industry is basically opposite of the best theoretical setup. It's not necessarily that I need ultra-narrow beam there...but I just want the brightest light there, it does a lot better with shadows and depth perception. The best solution is running an extension under your jacket to a fanny pack or just running a tiny battery.This is the main reason I'm reluctant to acquire an Outbound light. I've always felt I wanted a nice tight spot on my helmet, that illuminates the trail fair ahead, where my eyes are looking. I've often found that having light too close to my front wheel only serves to wash out my ability to see in the distance (as your eyes adjust to the level of light closest to you).
I've never had the opportunity to try these out (or know anyone who has them) and see for myself whether their vaunted beam pattern works for me. So it's good to get some real world feedback!
Have you checked out Magicshine lights? They are halfway decent and the one I have is nice - sturdy and has USB-c fast charging. They also have a Canadian dealer and they are on sale right now..This is the main reason I'm reluctant to acquire an Outbound light. I've always felt I wanted a nice tight spot on my helmet, that illuminates the trail fair ahead, where my eyes are looking. I've often found that having light too close to my front wheel only serves to wash out my ability to see in the distance (as your eyes adjust to the level of light closest to you).
I've never had the opportunity to try these out (or know anyone who has them) and see for myself whether their vaunted beam pattern works for me. So it's good to get some real world feedback!
thanks for the link. I've had MagicShine lights back in the day. I'm currently running Ituo's at the moment. I feel like they've dimmed a bit in the last few years, but not by a lot. I've been sorta looking to see what's available out there, to see if there's anything is worth upgrading to. That MOH 55 Aquila seems like it would fit the bill. I wonder if I can get it as a lighthead only?Have you checked out Magicshine lights? They are halfway decent and the one I have is nice - sturdy and has USB-c fast charging. They also have a Canadian dealer and they are on sale right now..
I have this bad boy on my helmet and sometimes its good enough on its own, if I forget to turn on my bar light. Its bright as heck.
Magicshine RN 3000 Front Bike Headlight – Magicshine Lights Canada
Magicshine RN 3000 is a powerful bicycle light equipped with two super bright and power efficient LEDs, with a maximum verified output of3,000 lumens. Magicshine Lights Canadamagicshine.ca
They also have other models that are supposedly brighter, with external batteries.
I usually just leave this thing on max for the entire ride and it lasts for anywhere from 1.5-2 hours. I've only had it dim down because it was running out of juice once. Just don't touch it was your cold bare hands after, I learned that the hard way.
Bottoms look kinda soggy.
yup, great beam pattern, actually feels like you can see everything you want to see. I've got the bar/helmet light combo (older wired bar version) and it's really good.i like the outbound lid light. light & compact with a nice wide beam pattern that i prefer to a brighter, more focused beam. i run a medium power, wide(ish) dispersion light on the bar as a foreground flood, and the combo works great. less of a tunnel vision effect; works well (for me).
the eye strain part is so true and was one of the things I noticed pretty quick too, it just feels much easier on the eyes overall since you aren't chasing a hot spot beam and it lights up peripheral so well.I've got a set of the Outbound lights (for over a year now). Previously ran a L&M Taz 1000 on top, 2000 on bars. And before that the Taz up top with a ~2000 lumen Magicshine on the bars. The OL lights are less spotlights and more diffuse. I like the effect (gives you more peripheral vision, less eye strain), but it take some adjusting to. The best part about their helmet light is how damn light weight it is - half that of the Taz, and sits lower too. Much less neck strain. I do a weekly night ride where we need lights for about 1/3 of the year, and it's gotten to the point where most people who show up use OL lights after seeing them in action.
The Magicshine (and other Chinese lights my friends have used) basically just throw massive amounts of lumens out there, irregular patterns, with mediocre mounts. Also very heavy. They're better than nothing, but they're not well thought out at all.
this is the solution I landed on.The best solution is running an extension under your jacket to a fanny pack
Is it really moar better than just tapping the light on the top of the helmet? (provided the light's user interface / switch is user friendly)Having a bluetooth remote for your helmet light is pretty friggin' awesome, I wish more offered it.
Personally I think it's great. With a remote you can more easily toggle between modes so you save power for when you need the brightest light. Also, it's really nice to be able to switch to a higher beam without taking a hand off the bars when dropping in on something - that's often precisely when you don't want to take a hand off.Is it really moar better than just tapping the light on the top of the helmet? (provided the light's user interface / switch is user friendly)
Yes, it really is. It's like a dropper post remote in terms of usefulness. The faster you go or more gnarly it gets, the more light you need...but you obviously only need it when you are going that fast. My gloworm remote has a "climb" setting that is super dim to save battery, so you can adjust all of these intensities with the remote. Another cool trick is putting it on strobe as you go through intersections.Is it really moar better than just tapping the light on the top of the helmet? (provided the light's user interface / switch is user friendly)
I built my own battery packs that have plenty of juice so I just run the helmet light on full throttle all the time. Not having to loop between all the modes helps, too.Yes, it really is. It's like a dropper post remote in terms of usefulness. The faster you go or more gnarly it gets, the more light you need...but you obviously only need it when you are going that fast. My gloworm remote has a "climb" setting that is super dim to save battery, so you can adjust all of these intensities with the remote. Another cool trick is putting it on strobe as you go through intersections.
Yes, it really is. It's like a dropper post remote in terms of usefulness. The faster you go or more gnarly it gets, the more light you need...but you obviously only need it when you are going that fast. My gloworm remote has a "climb" setting that is super dim to save battery, so you can adjust all of these intensities with the remote. Another cool trick is putting it on strobe as you go through intersections.
Yep. I'll admit I was a little skeptical at first, running my first remote on a wired Ituo, but hell, just so nice for everything...even small things like not blinding people on the trail, since you can instantly throttle it down to the low setting.Wanted the wireless remote, but it had just come out on the X2 stuff and was not available on the Alpha yet.
An infinitely user adjustable lens like you'd find on a cheap flashlight isn't a particularly great idea for a bike light. Remember just how savy your average cyclist actually is? eg. I see arseholes on the roads with high powered spot beams on their helmets. or beams on the bars pointed UPWARDS almost daily (well... eveningly if we're being pedantic) on my way home this time of year.I think it would make sense for bike light companies to get on board with flashlight "technology". Even $5 flashlights have an adjustable beam pattern. Why not bike lights?
My 5+ year old magicshine Eagle F3 lights have exactly that. with a choice of 2x floods, 2x spots or all 4 and multiple power output options for each. TBH it was way more complex than it needed to be and you were only likely to remember the full range of options/controls if you night ride tons.Why not have 2 or 3 different "areas"? One for close range, one medium and one far range. Then let the rider adjust the beam pattern?
That's why a decent bar light combined with a decent helmet light works so well. and even better if both have remotes.I've done local rides where the slow and techy trails make you want the bright light within 3 bike lengths. Other places though, I wish I could see 100' in front of me with a tight pattern and some overflow of light to the sides.
It's called a "switch" Son. don't be the twat who doesn't know how to use it on group rides. Pass it on!On a different note- Can't they make a flip-able dark lens for when you and your buddies are stopped so you're not blinding each other?