Tubeless has come very far, and chains don’t break as much as they used to. That’s all I got.
This is what's right with The Industry®
- Thread starter Jm_
- Start date
Disagree on the tubeless. If that had followed a reasonable evolution, the hook joint would be deeper in the rim away from the area that can deform from minor rim strikes.
But we all know that the drooling masses wouldn't accept the extra cunt hair of weight to keep their tire seal away from a crumple zone. Best to avoid all the bumps and make sure you have the lightest bicycle possible for all that spandex street cred.
But we all know that the drooling masses wouldn't accept the extra cunt hair of weight to keep their tire seal away from a crumple zone. Best to avoid all the bumps and make sure you have the lightest bicycle possible for all that spandex street cred.
Well, compared to when we started doing ghetto tubeless in '00, it is RIDICULOUSLY easy now. I haven't rolled a tire off of a rim since maybe '04?
i'll take every aspect of the bike i'm riding now over what i was riding 15 years ago. but really, it's all about your attitude and needs. and yeah, my tubeless is better, but that's because i took a weight penalty and went double down.
Sounds great, but how are you going to mount those things? Are we going to have bolt on beadlocks?
I've had more pinchflats with tubeless than I ever did with tubes, only instead of killing a $5 tube, now it kills a $90 tire.
Make a downhill casing tire with a higher durometer pedaling rubber and I'll change my tune. I don't want to spend hours dealing with sticking pool noodles in my wheels and adding 40 pounds of soggy weights to them just to change a tire.
For now though, tubeless is a big "meh" from me.
Make a downhill casing tire with a higher durometer pedaling rubber and I'll change my tune. I don't want to spend hours dealing with sticking pool noodles in my wheels and adding 40 pounds of soggy weights to them just to change a tire.
For now though, tubeless is a big "meh" from me.
Tires and tubeless seem to be the same as it's ever been. Compromise on weight and you need more psi's and are ok tear/slice risk or add weight based on riding style and terrain needs so that you minimize the risk of needing to fudge around with damaged tires when riding.
You can get 26" or 27.5" DH casing Minion twins with 60~62A. No 29" though.
This one had 528 miles (plus whatever I didn't record with strava), mostly ridden in AZ/NV. It rolls surprisingly well, and the side knobs remain useful after 200 miles unlike the 3C variant.
I just wish someone would figure out that pa6-25cf had the same tensile strength as 6061 (at a lower density might add) and make the spoke nipples molded into the wheel in spherical pockets so there's no holes in the rim to install nipples, so you don't need to rim tape and at the same time someone would figure out how to not make a super porous tire so I don't have to add 2 psi to my tires every other time I ride.
MatWeb - The Online Materials Information Resource
www.matweb.com
Looks like I over stated it a little bit, probably mis remember. CF just means it's got carbon fiber instead of E-Glass fiber.
I kind of agree, I wouldn't go so far as to say it's what's wrong, but it's also not done to the point where every rim and tire combo just goes right on and then you hook up a floor pump and it's done. Sometimes that's the case, and sometimes it's a couple hours of frustrating without an air compressor (and even then there are still issues occassionally), which shouldn't be a "requirement" for owning a bike.
I've used this a few times now and it definitely helps, it's basically seating the tire partially before you actually seat the tire, tightening it up and forcing the air to blow it into place, rather than escape. I definitely wouldn't go so far as to say a sure-fire way, I had some issues with a fat-tire still and we shouldn't be having to resort to these extremes to put our tires on.
Bingo...
$20 butt plugs, even @mandown can appreciate that.
www.bikemag.com
Cush Core Introduces Bead Dropper Tire Lever | BIKE Magazine
Running tire inserts is complicated. The insert itself is simple enough, but I mean it’s emotionally complicated. It doesn't have to be anymore.
www.bikemag.com
Just bought 2 at that price.$20 butt plugs, even @mandown can appreciate that.
Cush Core Introduces Bead Dropper Tire Lever | BIKE Magazine
Running tire inserts is complicated. The insert itself is simple enough, but I mean it’s emotionally complicated. It doesn't have to be anymore.
Flatbar Gravel bikes are a thing now
bikepacking.com
2021 Specialized Diverge Flat Bar Gravel Bike + New Lineup - BIKEPACKING.com
New for 2021, the Specialized Diverge lineup includes new tech, fresh builds, and two different flat bar options for those not sold on drop bars. Find all the details and photos here...
bikepacking.com
I think you got the wrong thread. That goes in the other industry thread. Now if they made a drop bar hard core hard tail, that would bring here.Flatbar Gravel bikes are a thing now
2021 Specialized Diverge Flat Bar Gravel Bike + New Lineup - BIKEPACKING.com
New for 2021, the Specialized Diverge lineup includes new tech, fresh builds, and two different flat bar options for those not sold on drop bars. Find all the details and photos here...
Funny, every time I ride a cyclocross/gravel bike off road I always think about how much better it would be with a flat bar and a dropper post. Of course, you could just put some skinny tires on a rigid XC bike for the same effect. At that point the only difference is a few geometry tweaks.
So that's basically the same as the 29er HT/rigid I've been riding as my "gravel" bike for the last decade...wp industry.
The only skinny tire bike I ever want to see in this forum is something purpose made for steep curvy backroad descents with zero concessions to climbing.
I've had this happen a few times, not really a big deal:
1. Remove tire
2. Locate pinch-flat hole area
3. Clean said area on inside of tire
4. Cut small piece of old DH tube
5. Super glue piece of tube on the inside of tire to cover pinch flat area
6. Wait for it to dry
7. Reinstall tire
You don't have to throw away a tire because of a pinch flat. I've done this on at least 5-6 tires in the last few years and each time it's held up until the tread was gone and the tire needed actual replacing.
I've been using automotive tyre patches and vulcanising solution to patch mtb tyre holes and tears from the inside for years. Preparation of the inside of the tyre casing and following the correct procedure is essential for good adhesion and a strong repair.
They'll generally hold up fine again tubeless at off-road pressures, but at higher pressures (40psi+ for commuting) I found a tendancy for the tyre to bulge at the repair so safer to sack off tubeless and run a tube for the remaining life of any tyres you're going to be running at those sort of pressures.
Bigger tears can be sewn together and superglued on the outside and patched from the inside... but life's kinda short already.
Super glue and a piece of DH tube may well offer a stiffer repair. and hold the tear together, possibly less prone to bulging. I dunno.
Worth trying either repair method if it means not having to ditch a fairly new tyre.
They'll generally hold up fine again tubeless at off-road pressures, but at higher pressures (40psi+ for commuting) I found a tendancy for the tyre to bulge at the repair so safer to sack off tubeless and run a tube for the remaining life of any tyres you're going to be running at those sort of pressures.
Bigger tears can be sewn together and superglued on the outside and patched from the inside... but life's kinda short already.
Super glue and a piece of DH tube may well offer a stiffer repair. and hold the tear together, possibly less prone to bulging. I dunno.
Worth trying either repair method if it means not having to ditch a fairly new tyre.
I cut a sizable tear in the sidewall of a Maxxis EXO+ casing last year riding lift-access and patched it. Real bummer as it it was like the second ride on a new set of tires. It did bulge after using my patch method, but held air normally through the rest of the season.
You're right about pressures though, not sure I'd use my method on a commuter/road tire running higher psi.
I have used super glue with great success. My dhf dd tire got a pinch flat at the bead on the first ride. I cleaned the tear, used super glue in the tear and patched the back using a regular patch and super glue. Worked great tubeless for the whole life of the tire. Super glue will bond very well and pretty quick to rubber.
I usually stitch the slash/cut with nylon thread and a medium sized needle. Then I superglue a piece of inner tube, taking care to throw enough glue into the cut. Has been working well for me and a couple of friends who killed tires on their first day of use.
Having to hand stitch paperthin sidewalls of poorly built yet expensive tires is not what is right with the industry.
Yeah, super-glue bonds well with organics...like your skin, but isn't exactly flexible either, which is why I'd think vulcanizing glue would be best.