I'm selling a fox 40 on ebay and a guy contacted me to see if it would work on a surron. I wasn't sure. Will they?
This is what's wrong with The Industry™
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A special model, or a normal 86?
New generation has definitely passed the bar into the acceptable realm. Nice car.
I was under the impression surrons used MTB forks to keep the weight down. Often cheap DNM or RST DH forks. I've been approached to service a few over the years but each time the owner has absolutely trashed them with zero maintenance to the point it basically was no longer economical to do so. I think most want a FOX 40 for the bling factor more than performance.
They have a tall headset so need a long steerer and sometimes a drop crown.
Base trim, manual. Strongly prefer white but could budge on color.
The DH fork it comes with has a "medium" spring that would be appropriate for a 175lb rider on a 40lb DH bike. It's impossible to find a stiffer spring so people get air forks or Dorado Comps with their XXL spring. The shock is also undersprung but not as severely and it's easier to get a stiffer spring. The EXT shock is the hot rear suspension mod though.
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That is still 12,000 drop bear dollars
They are that much more down there? What shipment across the water $2000? Be way cheaper to go that route......
When you thought you knew about all the hostile to human life australian animals but forgot about the abominable distributor.
I just did the conversion from USD to kangaroo pesos.
× .67 = $12,730us. Top of the line bike from a brand known for charging a premium + Aussie import tax. Yeah, that's not surprising in 2022 and I'd have believed it in 2020. The shocker here is it's lacking headset cable routing. Who'd be seen on such a travesty?
Bottom brackets - Sigh...
How many times can "engineers" fuck something up before admitting their mistakes and just go back to what works?
My buddy purchased a Tues. (Now I'm a lil hesitant that want one) and wanted to ditch the crabon cranks and brakes. I take off the cranks no problem and see that srams stupid, fucked up, piece of shit, go fuck yourself, dub setup has a spacer on each side of the bottom bracket. But ON THE OUTSIDE. 2 different dimensions and the dimensions aren't typical. Ie. 6mm, 4mm... Both sides are different. What the fuck. Why? What bottom bracket does he need to run Saint or RF cranks? Are spacers that massive needed for either of these cranks or are these crank/BB's just made easier to mount?
Here's another one for you. The bike has a 40 up front and code brakes. By chance we noticed that the front disc was 203 since that must be what the 40 PM must be. But on the back, YT has it printed 180 PM on the frame. The Sram spacer has printed on it "20mm". They actually have a 203 on the front and a 200mm disc on the back. What the fuck? Both sram rotors too! My other question is why have a 180 mount on a DH bike at all?
How many times can "engineers" fuck something up before admitting their mistakes and just go back to what works?
My buddy purchased a Tues. (Now I'm a lil hesitant that want one) and wanted to ditch the crabon cranks and brakes. I take off the cranks no problem and see that srams stupid, fucked up, piece of shit, go fuck yourself, dub setup has a spacer on each side of the bottom bracket. But ON THE OUTSIDE. 2 different dimensions and the dimensions aren't typical. Ie. 6mm, 4mm... Both sides are different. What the fuck. Why? What bottom bracket does he need to run Saint or RF cranks? Are spacers that massive needed for either of these cranks or are these crank/BB's just made easier to mount?
Here's another one for you. The bike has a 40 up front and code brakes. By chance we noticed that the front disc was 203 since that must be what the 40 PM must be. But on the back, YT has it printed 180 PM on the frame. The Sram spacer has printed on it "20mm". They actually have a 203 on the front and a 200mm disc on the back. What the fuck? Both sram rotors too! My other question is why have a 180 mount on a DH bike at all?
oh wow, that SRAM DUB spacer situation is a real shitshow, check it out, they are all different!
Maybe they are anticipating the coming of a few new wider BB standards in the near future and reserved the extra space ;-)
Because flexibility. Unless I ride in alpine areas with long descents, F200/R180 mm is enough for me (light) and how I ride (slow and no brake dragging). No need to have an on/off brake, which would be the case with a 200 mm rotor.
Bigger rotors are easier to modulate because you don’t have to squeeze as hard. Unless you have the coordination of a chimpanzee.
Try weaker brakes? It's a DH bike. The fork is set up for 203mm anyway. My Wilson is set up for 200mm front and back. Bolt the calipers and done.
Exactly! Not needing to squeeze as hard with a larger rotor makes locking up the rear wheel easier, hence worse modulation.
Formula T1 are not known to be super strong. I like having the braking power when I need it though.
My solution would be to ride places with steeper and higher hills/mountains more often. I am working on this as my new years resolution.
no brake is truly on/off. But something super grabby isn't the end of the world on the rear of a DH bike.
Rear brake = turning brake/ stabilizer.
Maybe my left hand descended from chimps tho.
True, that's the problem with their website. It just lists "DUB" as the bottom bracket specs. Unless it's hidden somewhere I'm not seeing?
It's a Pf30. So if he changes the cranks, the BB will need to be changed also. There's a pressed in Raceface one and an E13 "threaded" one. It threads together and pulls itself into the frame instead of using a headset press.
So we're not sure how this works with the RF or E13. The RF or E13 get pressed in and the crank (either Atlas or Saint) goes in and we're done? Or are there spacers that need to be placed between the BB and crank arms? Or a spacer behind the BB? I'm fucking lost with this thing and the lbs's aren't any help either.
Try reading this without reaching for the gun*.
gearjunkie.com
*if you live in the US. A knife for everyone else.
Bottom Bracket Basics: Cyclists' Guide to Standards
The sheer number and variability of bottom bracket standards on the market makes this component one of cycling's most troublesome.
gearjunkie.com
*if you live in the US. A knife for everyone else.
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No one actually does this right IMO, they do what is most cost-effective/easiest to produce. That means the same calipers F and R, but what they really should be doing is the same rotor size and a weaker caliper on the rear. You'd be able to lock it up just fine due to the rotor size, but you'd have more modulation and heat dissipation with it, like every other vehicle on the planet (same, smaller or even bigger rear rotors, but always a smaller rear caliper). But then you'd have to spec a matching lever set mated to an appropriate rear caliper, which is just not an OEM reality.
PF30 is 46mm shell. Plenty PF30 to 24mm options out there ranging from cheap alibayXpress to Hope etc
Easier to pull brakes are Easter to modulate, you have more fiber muscular control at lower forces.Exactly! Not needing to squeeze as hard with a larger rotor makes locking up the rear wheel easier, hence worse modulation.
Formula T1 are not known to be super strong. I like having the braking power when I need it though.
My solution would be to ride places with steeper and higher hills/mountains more often. I am working on this as my new years resolution.
OK. How about the second part of the question though? Do you just lube it and stick it in, or are there spacers/cock rings all over the place?
Ps. Again, The Industry™ sucks. Why call it a PF30 if nothing about it is 30mm? Like Gary said, they are available in 24mm spindle diameters also.
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Assuming you mean easier for the same level of braking power, I totally agree with this. I've never understood people who say their brakes are "too strong". It can take some time to adjust to different feels, but I'll take less effort for the same amount of braking force every time.
This is a big part of why Dominions are so fantastic.
