Hmm...
On four separate occasions my motor has thrown a connection error and switched itself off passing the same MacDonald's . Never had the error elsewhere. Kinda weird considering the place is usually packed out with illegal Ebike deleveroo guys
Hmm...
On four separate occasions my motor has thrown a connection error and switched itself off passing the same MacDonald's . Never had the error elsewhere. Kinda weird considering the place is usually packed out with illegal Ebike deleveroo guys
had the same problem with asymetrical raceface rims. put another o-ring inbetween the rim and the plastic wedge adapterNot sure if this is more "What has the industry broken on your bike recently?" or "This is what's wrong.."
I'm experiencing difficulty achieving an airtight seal with my Mavic valves both inside and outside. I don't believe the issue is caused by the tape because if that were the case, the spokes would also be leaking air? The problem seems to be specifically at the base of the valve.
I find it puzzling that Mavic drilled the valve hole in the rim asymmetrically and then used a hard plastic adapter to address the problem, as shown on the left here. The hole also seems a little too big, leading to the valve moving and leaking.
I've never encountered anything like this before. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting this issue?
View attachment 217062
Erm... Pour quoi?had the same problem with asymetrical raceface rims. put another o-ring inbetween the rim and the plastic wedge adapter
cut a small piece of an old inner tube - half inch by half inch square or so (12mm for Gary). poke a hole in the center and put it over the valve stem.Not sure if this is more "What has the industry broken on your bike recently?" or "This is what's wrong.."
I'm experiencing difficulty achieving an airtight seal with my Mavic valves both inside and outside. I don't believe the issue is caused by the tape because if that were the case, the spokes would also be leaking air? The problem seems to be specifically at the base of the valve.
I find it puzzling that Mavic drilled the valve hole in the rim asymmetrically and then used a hard plastic adapter to address the problem, as shown on the left here. The hole also seems a little too big, leading to the valve moving and leaking.
I've never encountered anything like this before. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting this issue?
View attachment 217062
Sram anticipated this when they released the first AXS, making their wireless protocol (which is NOT Bluetooth) encrypted. It was discussed at some length at the time because wireless shifting seemed so wild and fraught with potential problems. Years later Shimano introduces wireless shifting and no one discussed what the protocol is or what protections are in place cuz we've moved past that concern. Whoops.Not only licensing agreements and batteries, but now they're saying that the electronics can be hacked causing mis-shifts. There's a concern that it could affect tour racers all the way down to local races.
High-end racing bikes are now vulnerable to hacking
They’re working with a bike company to patch vulnerabilities.www.theverge.com
Valves with a base that shape never seal as well as valves with a cone shaped base.
but I don't see any reason why the valve hole couldn't have been drilled straight through the rim.
This would be a great advantage if I can hack into my fellow racers shifters....if any of them actually used Di2...Sram anticipated this when they released the first AXS, making their wireless protocol (which is NOT Bluetooth) encrypted. It was discussed at some length at the time because wireless shifting seemed so wild and fraught with potential problems. Years later Shimano introduces wireless shifting and no one discussed what the protocol is or what protections are in place cuz we've moved past that concern. Whoops.
I initially tried using Mucoff valves, but they didn't work. Then I tried using Mavic OG's, which also didn't work. I guess it could have been too easy. Mavic has a 12-year-old video that provides instructions, but it doesn't include this type of valve. Too easy again. I'm actually really desperate to ask here. I also sent an email to Mavic, but their initial response was not very specific, except for the link to a YouTube video.Valves with a base that shape never seal as well as valves with a cone shaped base.
Easy solution: Replace the valve.
They tend to seal better in the type of rims which have a well. The same width. As thats what they were designed to fit...Valves with a base that shape never seal as well as valves with a cone shaped base
i first tried some basic ones, like those, with an additional wedge shape plastic thingie, wouldn‘t tighten properly, always leaking some air near the valveErm... Pour quoi?
Due to the ass-symmetry the outer edge of the valve hole is at an angle. So that plastic angled adapter is only required to allow the valve nut to be tightened square. Pulling the rubber seal end into the tape/valve.
Exactly how are you imagining squashing a round O-ring at an angle between the adapter and rim will help?
The leak needing dealt with is from the inside of the rim. If not dealt with properly air/sealant is going to end up in the rim cavity. And no one wants goo in their cavity forever. Not even you Seth.
Hmmm...you only wrench. mechs never have product knowledge
I have done better on my current rear wheel.no one wants goo in their cavity forever. Not even you Seth.
Oh, FFS
Patent Patrol: Fox Wireless Dropper's Infinite & Stepped Travel to get Voice & Auto GPS Drop
Recent Fox wireless dropper seatpost patents hint at a future of more connected mountain biking, with automatic saddle drops on the horizon…bikerumor.com
so we both agree, the rubber thing made all the difference!Hmmm...
Sounds like that extra little rubber O-ring simply allowed feeble unblemished salesman fingers the ability to tighten the nut down sufficiently that the valve's base seal... finally... er... sealed.
But (assuming you didn't simply stop the valve leaking at the wrong place) it worked out for you so fair enough.
tbf, 'C' frames do have cable ports.
Another manufacturer releases a frame without cable guides or cable ports. God forbid any Luddite wants to run mechanical shifting anymore.
It’s the perfect frame for anyone’s who’s ever complained about cable routing - you get to drill your own!
Another manufacturer releases a frame without cable guides or cable ports. God forbid any Luddite wants to run mechanical shifting anymore.
They were the bolts that came with my Magura rotors. Might as well have been made from cheese.Magura bolts? They may have been made out of plastic.
Not a fan of that. Cables4lyf is me. My iphone is 99% of the time less than 10% charge.
Another manufacturer releases a frame without cable guides or cable ports. God forbid any Luddite wants to run mechanical shifting anymore.
If I am ever on a ride and I hear someone talking to their seatpost I am going to club them over the head with a branch
laugh all you want but these guys are laughing all the way to the bank courtesy of roadie wankers.
The new fox electric post is ugly, expensive, and doesn’t solve any real world problems.
Long live the bike industry.
bikeyoke is working on an electric / wireless dropper too.Hopefully it has the lack of serviceability and poor reliability/action of the OG Transfer! Theyve got a reputation to uphold after all!
meanwhile, my wolftooth and bikeyokes are like butter and my cheap PNWs work and are probably the most cost effective, especially when REI was selling them for 1/2 price and I bought a couple.
If that's including remote and with both batteries fitted it's not hugely over the weight of a complete cable/hose actuated 200mm dropper post.And weighs 800 grams.
Is anyone working on an EMP pulse?bikeyoke is working on an electric / wireless dropper too.
Who needs a remote when you can just yell to your ass-dropper w/voice recog?If that's including remote and with both batteries fitted it's not hugely over the weight of a complete cable/hose actuated 200mm dropper post.