This is what's wrong with The Industry™
- Thread starter Electric_City
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ugh...
This is about as far from appealing to me as it could get. I am not in their segment. Special-ed indeed.
No comment, name speaks for itself
www.pinkbike.com
MagSuck's Chainring Uses Magnets to Prevent Dropped Chains - Pinkbike
The MagSuck is a chainring that uses small magnets between each tooth to help keep the chain firmly in place.
No comment, name speaks for itself
MagSuck's Chainring Uses Magnets to Prevent Dropped Chains - Pinkbike
The MagSuck is a chainring that uses small magnets between each tooth to help keep the chain firmly in place.
How do they work?
magsuck = chainsuck
they spelled MegaSuck wrong...
"Based out of China, MagSuck produce a chainring that uses small magnets..."No comment, name speaks for itself
MagSuck's Chainring Uses Magnets to Prevent Dropped Chains - Pinkbike
The MagSuck is a chainring that uses small magnets between each tooth to help keep the chain firmly in place.
In Chinese magsuck means "the lizard".
Shimano cleat bolts. Who know they had a specific torque?
Here's the catch. I never knew they had a torque until today. For the first time in 25+ years I used a torque wrench and this happened! The heads of the bolt are machined too deep.
Here's the catch. I never knew they had a torque until today. For the first time in 25+ years I used a torque wrench and this happened! The heads of the bolt are machined too deep.
As I recall, my SC Heckler had some bolts like that - forget which ones...
Spent a couple of hours this afternoon working on wife's trail bike with her:
- Removed an old SRAM crankset which has a 30T NW and bashring
- Removed SRAM BB
- Spent way too long trying to remove one of the chainring bolts which had seized
- Installed Shimano BB
- Installed 30T NW onto her old 780 XT crankset
- Installed brand new OneUp ISCG05 bash/guide she'd been given as a gift
- Get it set up at correct height, with correct spacers and torqued to spec
- Spin the cranks and immediately knock the top guide out of place as end of the spider arms foul the outer plate
Fuck Avid Centerline rotor that arrived pre-warped NIB. 
The top guide is height adjustable. just raise it to the 32T position and it'll clear the spider.Nothing on the webpage about only being direct mount crank compatible...
- Spin the cranks and immediately knock the top guide out of place as end of the spider arms foul the outer plate
your crank's spider was designed for a 32t min chainring. (that's why the 30T is spaced away from the spider)
Stick a slither of mastic tape under the top portion of the guide to close the gap above the chain to stop it rising/bouncing and also to quieten the guide
Agreed on the above, it just annoyed me at the time. Particularly after having to fight the seized alu chainring bolt which rounded and then had half the head crack off. With the guide raised just enough to clear the spider it looks like it sold be able to do it's job.
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I'll pass on your suggestion to S
I did things by feel for so many years and never snapped anything. Had another buddy who went out and got a torque wrench. Immediately snapped a bunch of the pinch bolts on his 888s and wrecked some other crap. After we had to Ezy-Out the crown bolts to remove the snapped ones, I compared his torque wrench to the calibrated one in the workshop and it was miles out. Like 180% or something. Yay.
Sort of hard to determine cause and effect - I have probably ten or so torque wrenches, most from allegedly quality manufacturers - Craftsman, Snap-On, Park... I treat them with care and respect, (but have never had one calibrated) and have never broken a fastener using them. This is, of course, anecdote.
Buy one from Harbor Freight? I think it's another story...
Buy one from Harbor Freight? I think it's another story...
Ah yeah, there's heaps of rules about using them and whatnot. I'm from the school of "feel works for 99% of applications" myself. About the only bolts I consistently fuck up or ruin are the stupid little ones on lock on grips. Mainly when it comes time to undo them. And torqueing them correctly won't save me because its usually cold welding that is the issue there.
I sometimes use anti-sieze on those.
Sweat Kills
Notice how you can see through the bolt head? The hex is too deep, or the threads are too far up. Basically, the threaded part just pulled off the head cause the hex is the same diameter as the threaded part of the bolt.
My torque wrenches are actually calibrated annual since we're an ISO shop. I just bring mine in and they check them for me.
But even my Raceface stem stripped. It was an Aeffect. I know, I know. Not the best of the best. Not Monkey approved. But on that stem they have 9Nm etched into it. Most stems I've looked at are 5Nm. While going back and forth with the wrench between the top and bottom bolt (before it clicks). The top bolt started to feel like it was getting easier. So I switched back to the bottom one and it clicked. The top one was stripped. Had to buy a helicoil kit ti fix it. Fwiw, the stem was mounted and left in place for a year. When I went to change the headset spacer, this happened. What is it, a one-and-done product?
In the meantime I went back to the OE stem (which is marked 5Nm Btw) and have been running that this year without any issues.
My torque wrenches are actually calibrated annual since we're an ISO shop. I just bring mine in and they check them for me.
But even my Raceface stem stripped. It was an Aeffect. I know, I know. Not the best of the best. Not Monkey approved. But on that stem they have 9Nm etched into it. Most stems I've looked at are 5Nm. While going back and forth with the wrench between the top and bottom bolt (before it clicks). The top bolt started to feel like it was getting easier. So I switched back to the bottom one and it clicked. The top one was stripped. Had to buy a helicoil kit ti fix it. Fwiw, the stem was mounted and left in place for a year. When I went to change the headset spacer, this happened. What is it, a one-and-done product?
In the meantime I went back to the OE stem (which is marked 5Nm Btw) and have been running that this year without any issues.
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In that case, where you are calibrating your torque wrench, you should have documentation for this and be able to provide a letter to RF explaining this, your evidence, documentation of calibration, how it says 9Nm and how others seem to be significantly lower, and request a response in 10 business days for them to address this (warranty). Send the letter return-receipt so someone has to sign for it and it you get a green-card back, which shows they have been served. It's the initial steps in a civil suite, but it usually provides the "nudge" to get the company to do the right thing. Just worked with Manitou for me.
Whoa. I'd never trust a heli-coiled stem bolt. Works fine for a lot of things but personally I'd send it back or just toss it.
Ummmmm, yeahhhhhhh... Let me call my lawyer and waste people's time over $30 stem.
The warranty asks for the receipt, which I don't have (for some reason I can't find that particular one). Not to mention that I re-tapped it and put a helicoil in it.
The warranty asks for the receipt, which I don't have (for some reason I can't find that particular one). Not to mention that I re-tapped it and put a helicoil in it.
After warrantying Next SL cranks a few times, they seem to lose some of their enthusiasm in my experience...
I have heard their warranty department has gone downhill since my last time dealing with them, which, if true, is really too bad. They still make some nice stuff, but a shit warranty department coupled with some of their recent product failures (hubs, Next cranks, dropper, etc) doesn't bode well for them.
which turbine stem did you break? I've heard about these issues, but my Turbine R 35 stem has been OK for a year+.
I really don't want a stem to break while I'm riding.
I really don't want a stem to break while I'm riding.
My Turbine R bolts rusted to crap in like 5 weeks. I emailed RF and they gave me some spiel about coastal environments etc. Never had an issue with any other fasteners on my bike, but cbf arguing so just got new bolts myself.which turbine stem did you break? I've heard about these issues, but my Turbine R 35 stem has been OK for a year+.
I really don't want a stem to break while I'm riding.
Coastal environments? Did they really claim salty wind killed your bolts? They are just using cheap as fuck bolts. I have had some proto gear from one company with the same problem and it happened 350km from the nearest saltwater reservoir. Not really an excuse there. They probably are using the same bolts and that company did not use those bolts in production models since they are not morons.
salt in the air can/does increase the rate of corrosion, but if that were the case those wouldn't be the only bolts failing.
Yeah I understand salty air increases corrosion rates but "coastal air" is a shitty excuse since I doubt you would have a noticeable effect even if you only rode on seaside cliffs.