Overdamped is a subjective term in this case. Some dampers work better with certain frames than others, some setups work better for certain terrain than others, some setups work better for certain people than others. One shock isn't necessarily flat out better than another across the board, at the end of the day a damper curve is a damper curve and it doesn't matter what the logo on the shock is. I think Pslide's post is entirely valid, running a soft spring rate and heavy damping just wasn't working for him and the terrain he rides - fair call IMO. There are tracks I've ridden where I'd agree 100% that a stiffer, lighter damped setup works better than my usual setup too.I don't have much to add because I don't really think about how my shock works this much but I mean hey, speculation is awesome right
I have a CCDB on my M6 and after coming off riding DHX 5's for a while all I can say is they don't have **** on the Dub Beezy.
I'm also pretty set it and forget it status so I rode for a day, set it up and have been riding it like ever since.
Over-dampened? I don't know man... Maybe you prefer pogo-stick suspension but I sure as hell like mah traction.
Did both bikes use the DHX?I wish more manufacturers integrated a progressive design into their suspension... My brooklyn had an entirely different feel (read: progressive, and, better) than my Sunday does (read: linear/regressive, and, "dead" feeling). I understand the Sunday was designed around a specific shock, but it seems silly to me to rewrite the playbook to accommodate one design. The brooklyn had more pop, trail feel, and liveliness and bottom out resistance with too little spring and probably too much damping. I pray that the superbro integrates some of the same features. Hopefully a firmer spring and maybe a pro-tune on the DHX I have fill breathe some life into the Sunday...but we'll see which happens first.
interesting thread...
From my limited experience with my frame (canfield lucky) I like very little compression damping, (so DHX5 is propedal at min, bottom out all the way out and min pressure in the chamber) and for everything but drops rebound one or two clicks from fastest, this way the rear end feels super active and tracks the ground perfectly... However, while it feels awesome railing chundery trails, it scares teh bejesus out of me when I hit drops that come up on the trails... So for that obviously the slower rebound is what is needed, if I leave teh rebound slow enough not to turf me over the bars the bike feels harsh (packs up I guess).
Short of stopping before/after decent hits to change rebound I can't seem to find a sweet spot...
I wonder if something like the vivid with the beginning/end stroke rebound would be the ticket???
I saw the CCDB, but I'm not sure if a high/low speed rebound would also solve the problem, ie quick on small bumps, but slower returning from a large hit?
The way I understood the sram description it talks about physical shaft position, which is why I thought it was actually quite a good idea, ie deep in the travel slower rebound as that has to have been from a big impact, and faster near the end stroke where the small bumps hang out. But that could be because they have a speed sensitive valve instead of a position sensitive valve (as RS implies) like you said, due to the larger forces involved the further you compress the spring.Ending/begining and low/high speed are the EXACT same adjustments when refering to rebound. Sram has choosen to use that (incorrect IMO) terminology because the VAST majority of MTBers have no idea what any of this means or how it might work.
BTW, you might want to play with the compression adjustments a bit (up the pressure in small amounts...granted it is not very intuitive on the DHX). The rebound energy is directly related to how much travel is compressed (this is the reason for the above statement BTW). If you can control excess travel on larger landings, there will be less energy in the system to rebound and through you.
High leverage rates (cannot find this info for the Lucky), high rider weight, large landings, 'not smooth' would all suggest even more compression damping.
Of course, spring rate, and technique might also have a large impact on what you are experiencing....
Deep stroke rebound is ALWAYS going to be faster than top-end rebound, all else being equal. It's pretty simple - higher spring force means it can push harder. The DHX, like all shocks for the past 13+ years, has shimmed rebound, it's not simply a ported damper (the "fixed area valve" you refer to).The way I understood the sram description it talks about physical shaft position, which is why I thought it was actually quite a good idea, ie deep in the travel slower rebound as that has to have been from a big impact, and faster near the end stroke where the small bumps hang out. But that could be because they have a speed sensitive valve instead of a position sensitive valve (as RS implies) like you said, due to the larger forces involved the further you compress the spring.
The more I think about it, on the CCDB, you would have the high speed rebound set up to be, err, slow since the high speed would be active when there are a lot of return forces involved, ie when the shock is heavily compressed.
What throws me is since the valves are essentially pressure sensitive (ie the dial is changing the preload on some springs which hold the valves), and since oil is flowing, pressure is related to how fast you are pushing the oil... So, with out causing mental explosion, is this right:
Since at the beginning of stroke you have say 1500lbs (600lb spring compressed say 2.5") of force you're trying to slow down so you would need a smaller oil passage at this point (high force lower desired shaft speed), than at say the last 1/2" of stroke where you have only 300lb of force that you want to rebound quickly (low force higher desired shaft speed) where you need a large oil passage...
The only way that makes sense in my head is if the "high speed" rebound is a dial that determines how much force is needed to CLOSE a valve, rather than open it, and the slow rebound is the combined OPEN area...
Am I way off there?
Which means, for the DHX, assuming its a simple fixed area valve, would have a rebound that is faster the further compressed the shock is... Which would explain why I set it super fast to be supple on small bumps and feel like Im about to get thrown when I land a 5ft drop...
A progressive linkage with a purely speed sensitive damper does that anyway. Interesting, IMO, that progression and leverage rate are rarely considered with regards to rebound damping.The control valve type arrangement (propedal/SPV etc) could do it in compression, and surely in rebound too, minimal damping at beginning stroke, ramp up rebound/compression as you go deeper -> end stroke...
Or am I nuts?
Progressive linkage + high pressure progressive damper = sh!tton of built up deep travel springrate => BOING => yikes!A progressive linkage with a purely speed sensitive damper does that anyway. Interesting, IMO, that progression and leverage rate are rarely considered with regards to rebound damping.
Does "BOING" = bucking ?!?Progressive linkage + high pressure progressive damper = sh!tton of built up deep travel springrate => BOING => yikes!
That's the big reason I love my CCDB right there. Well, one of them. It turns an otherwise almost overly progressive frame into one with MUCH more control and potential without having to compensate for that buildup in other ways.
You can't "build up springrate" (assuming you actually meant spring force) with a damper of any kind. More damping = LESS energy stored by the spring. Air pressure in the reservoir is a relatively small concern IMO. Rocos aren't progressive either, unless you'd also consider a Vanilla RC progressive.Progressive linkage + high pressure progressive damper = sh!tton of built up deep travel springrate => BOING => yikes!
That's the big reason I love my CCDB right there. Well, one of them. It turns an otherwise almost overly progressive frame into one with MUCH more control and potential without having to compensate for that buildup in other ways.
Edit: Also a big reason I'm not too hot on the Roco's as much these days. Awesome compression and progression characteristics, but with 200psi in the reservoir and it's "whatthefvck" rebound circuit, it wasn't too balanced. Super nice shock otherwise though, and I wish someone would find a good user modification to get the rebound range a bit more sane.
I would disagree. In my experience they've been EXTREMELY progressive. Maybe not as much as an RC4 or something with a larger shaft, but still enough where it's very difficult to bottom it out even if riding undersprung.You can't "build up springrate" (assuming you actually meant spring force) with a damper of any kind. More damping = LESS energy stored by the spring. Air pressure in the reservoir is a relatively small concern IMO. Rocos aren't progressive either, unless you'd also consider a Vanilla RC progressive.
Keep this in mind. I had one of the older CCDB's and it did NOT work setting it up either over damped or underdamped because the rebound was so absurdly slow. I can do both with the elka I have on it now (more damping less sprung, and more spring less damping), and the underdamped with a DHX5 (We have the same bike)In response to your original post about a DHX vs. CCDB, I think the CCDB would benefit you with is fantastic damping and high and low speed rebound. But if you prefer to run little compression damping and have a lively feeling bike, you will have to run the compression almost all the way open to get this feeling, and thus you won't be using the shock like CC intend you to. Not that there is anything wrong with that - a few posters on here (including me) are doing exactly that.
Also, if you do get a CCDB, make sure you get a new one, because the old ones didn't have as large a damping range, and it wasn't even possible to run an underdamped setup.
Keep in mind that you'll be spending a lot of money to get a very nice shock, and then basically setting it up very similar to a DHX - so maybe not worth it!
In my experience, the biggest danger with running excessive compression on the front with too little on the back is getting a bike that kicks you forwards off jumps. If the rear end is very lightly damped compared to the front, every time the bike compresses, disproportionately more energy will be stored by the spring, and you'll have a higher peak spring load - so even slowing down the rebound won't necessarily help.Good thread this. Just to change tack slightly, I was wondering about the relationship between compression damping on the shock and fork? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the key to a stable bike is to have the compression matched as closely as possible front and back. Would most people agree with this?
I recently got a Sunday with Vivid 5.1 and 06 Boxxer Teams built up and I've been working on my suspension set-up. So far I have wound all compression off front and back, and have been focusing on getting the rebound dialled in first of all. I think I have that pretty much sorted now. The bike feels really good, nice and lively and absoloutely eats bumps, but doesn't buck on jumps and rollers. However, on steep stuff the front end does tend to dive a bit and sometimes when hitting berms or ruts hard it feels like the front end is falling away from me a bit. This means I have started to consider getting some LSC on the go, but if I wind some on on the front, does that mean I should automatically wind some on on the back? I haven't noticed any detrimental effects (so far) of not having LSC on the back, plus the bike pedals well naturally and I want to minimize any loss in small bump response. If I were to wind on LSC on the forks only, how do you think the bike would start to behave if you took it too far?