[blindboxx2334]

I trade out parts often during the building and tweeking process. Over winter we're all making plans, new pedals here, new hubs there. A wider bar or maybe carbon?
The point is that when your a working stiff it's nice to have your old parts help you to the goal of that costly new fork or shock.

hmm, i used to do that when i first got into riding, but i found out what i liked real quick.. although i am building my first DH bike right now, so ive been reading up on ish like a nerd in a library trying to get his final done that was due two days ago.. i know i will replace some things once i get it built, but i am confident they will just be minor things.


ive been through so many parts and built so many bikes (mostly BMX a couple of years ago), im just tired of always cycling through parts and constantly having to sell my old stuff, ive also noticed that it takes time for me to get used to the new stuff.. so now i really try to make as much of an informed decision as i can, so theres not as much downtime.. i believe thats why i dont worry about resale values anymore (i didnt at one point in time, years ago), i buy what i think i will genuinely like.

although i know what you mean about working stiff. i work and go to school, so ive already got a lot of downtime =(..

oh and sorry for the two posts, i realized this forum has multi quote.. love that tool.

 

[Verskis]

I still don't understand why people get such a raging hardon over the Renthal bars, they are a normal sweep/rise and they are a crap colour, why are they the bestestest?

I would consider 9 degrees normal backsweep, the Renthal has only 7 degrees. Upsweep is pretty standard 5 degrees.

 

[BigBoi]

I still don't understand why people get such a raging hardon over the Renthal bars, they are a normal sweep/rise and they are a crap colour, why are they the bestestest?

I bent my pro tapers, resulting in semi-chub.
I have yet to bend my renthal, resulting in raging hardon.

 

[bizutch]

I'm running the Thomson bars at full length and you can't go off all these "listed" angles for bars. your hands fall in a different plane with every single bar. Also, the way you have your particular cockpit set up and your reach, both leg length and arm length, not to mention shoulder width and torso.

All of the above make every single bar fall into a different plane and angle once bolted onto your bike. I mounted them up and ran them at the same angle as the Boobar that came off the bike. Realized "my bars are aimed in a different direction. Rotated them back...and realized that both bars were virtually in the exact same place for my hands, even though sweep, bend and reach were completely different if you set them in the same "Zero" setting.

I flat out like them and have been hammering on them. No sense of excess feedback at the bars and zero problems with flex. If you know someone who has them, bolt them on your bike, close your eyes with your stem bolts loose and rotate them til they feel comfortable and open your eyes.

I would strongly suggest getting the Thomson DH bar. The stringent standards they require for just the bolts that go into their stems alone far surpasses what most companies insist on their best product.

 

[Drth Vadr]

I flat out like them and have been hammering on them. No sense of excess feedback at the bars and zero problems with flex. If you know someone who has them, bolt them on your bike, close your eyes with your stem bolts loose and rotate them til they feel comfortable and open your eyes.

I would strongly suggest getting the Thomson DH bar. The stringent standards they require for just the bolts that go into their stems alone far surpasses what most companies insist on their best product.

Good, finally some positive feed back.

From what I can see from real life pictures of your DHR, the bar angles look fine. Not as flat as I expected.

 

[MinorThreat]

Good, finally some positive feed back.

If you only wanted positive feedback, you should have said so in your original post.