[xy9ine]

speaking of aluminum rod ends, where can one purchase these elusive items? i've done many a google search, and all the aluminum rod ends i've found have been imperial. where can i find some m8's?

 

[Mani_UT]

Actually even a carbon rod can be pretty bomb proof! I had build one out of an old swix pole for my BB7 and the thing was freaking unbreakable (not like the crap rod end that came with the Balfa and that either were snapping or bending).

it was super tough, stiff as hell despite a narrow diameter (great for tire clearance) and so ridiculously light. good stuff

 

[shock]

How exactly are you calculating buckling load in a compressed element if Euler buckling isn't relevant? Its not only relevent, its necessary in my opinion. Maybe I just like calculating things though...

Case in point, Profile DH bike. I personally had to modify several of them at Platekill a few years back because the rods were buckling. Hit the rear brake, rod buckles into the wheel, wheel locks up, suspension locks out, you crash. A quick run of the Euler buckling equation showed that the section was just too small.

Anyways, carry on

Dave

Not relevant in terms of your initial comment about about solid rods not making sense in light of Euler's. A .5 inch diameter solid rod has a silly factor of safety relative to the maximum possible load.

Our worst case floater is a Shockwave, longer than any other rod on the planet by far (including Super 8 rods). Even for that length, the attachment bolts (M8) would fail waaaay before the rod would buckle. And I think the mounting boss would rip out of the frame, and probably all the spokes would break or rip out of the rim.

I do want to point out that the Profile DH rods you're talking about were not ours (Brake Therapy). We actually sell quite a few rods to people that have had tubular rods fail on their oe floaters.

So yes, when using a solid .5 inch rod for a floater, Euler's is irrelavant.

There are even a few applications where we have to put a bend(s) in the rod for clearance reasons (M-1, Sunday). Even though I hate doing that, the solid rod isn't even close to being overstressed even with a bend.

PS, someone mentioned earlier that we use aluminum 8 mm rod ends. We do not. Our 8 mm rod ends are steel. We do use 3/8" 7075 rod ends in our carbon rods.

 

[shock]

gimmee a real job and i'll lay off the boards....

well using that tube allows for a bend in my case, but also will take a side impact better, ie. bending forces (which i noticed, carefully omitted ). My main point was, i could go lighter even and retain the important strength factors. Inserts are no biggy IMO. I just thought using Al-tube was a more cost effective way of reducing weight

You might be right about 6mm rod ends, but i could still tell the steel quality was garbage. At 4-5$ a pop, theres no reason to cheap out on something decent that'll save the day.

Also Zedro, I would disagree about your tubing taking a side impact better. While your tube is indeed better in pure bending, a side impact (especially with a rock) is a point loading. In that case, once the integrity of the wall thickness of the tubing is breached, all the cross section benefits of the tube go out the window. Of course your tubes wall is so thick it's not very likley, but more so than a solid rod.

All the other tubular rods (on some bikes oe rods) are much thinner wall, and much more succeptable to crash damage

 

[shock]

Actually even a carbon rod can be pretty bomb proof! I had build one out of an old swix pole for my BB7 and the thing was freaking unbreakable (not like the crap rod end that came with the Balfa and that either were snapping or bending).

it was super tough, stiff as hell despite a narrow diameter (great for tire clearance) and so ridiculously light. good stuff

and nice job on that carbon rod, here's ours, with the aluminum rod ends. Again, these are 3/8 7075, so they're actually stronger than an m8 steel rod end

 

[DHS]

and nice job on that carbon rod, here's ours, with the aluminum rod ends. Again, these are 3/8 7075, so they're actually stronger than an m8 steel rod end

hrm, if i were to order one of those for my Brooklyn Race link. coud the ends not be Red?
me Bike is Pure Orange. that'd be fugly.
and any chance on knowing the price here?

 

[shock]

hrm, if i were to order one of those for my Brooklyn Race link. coud the ends not be Red?
me Bike is Pure Orange. that'd be fugly.
and any chance on knowing the price here?

At the moment, the only color available for the Aluminum rod ends is red, (unless I order a few thousand of them at once).

We can make the carbon rod so that it will take our stock steel rod ends (gold), or your stock rod ends.

Price for the carbon rod, alum rod ends and alum jam nuts is $160. For the rod alone $120. Email me at braketherapy@therapycomponents.com if you're interested.

 

[zedro]

you can sand/polish the red oxide off.

 

[xy9ine]

so... does anyone know if aluminum M8 rod ends are available anywhere? i've found 5/16" & 3/8" but no metric sizes.

 

[zedro]

so... does anyone know if aluminum M8 rod ends are available anywhere? i've found 5/16" & 3/8" but no metric sizes.

is it because you need an M8 threaded end, or need the 8mm ball-joint ID? because if you only need the ball-joint to be 8mm and your making your own rod, a 5/16" works fine.

 

[xy9ine]

i was thinking a direct replacement for the steel ones i have - the rod is threaded m8. i suppose if one were making a new rod, you could use the 5/16" rod end & enlarge the ball-joint hole slightly to fit the m8 frame mounting bolt. hmmm.

 

[zedro]

the 5/16" rod end & enlarge the ball-joint hole slightly to fit the m8 frame mounting bolt. hmmm.

no, the 5/16" hole is big enough to fit an M8 through...it'll actually fit better. Besides it would be pretty hard to enlarge it.