[foamy mojo]

Looking for some tips to build a laterally stiff XC/AM wheelset.

My current set is King ISO disc hubs laced to Mavic 717s with straight gauge spokes.

They are a few years old & I think probably worn out. They seem to be getting really flexy during hard cornering.

Any suggestions to use the same hubs with a different rim/spoke setup to strengthen up the lateral flex?

 

[moff_quigley]

DT 5.1s (or whatever the Mavic equivalent is) with double butted spokes is probably what you seek. In theory a DB spoke will build a stiffer wheel than a straight gauge one.

Most definitely keep the Kings.

 

[davep]

Straight guage spokes are very much overkill for that build. Are the rims in bad shape? When was the last time you had them trued/tensioned? Wheels wont get 'flexy' unless the spokes are loose or some other structural component is bad/broken. A truing coul dbe all they need...

King hubs have a tendancy to self-loosen a bit....feeling a lot like a latteral 'flex'.

 

[Zark]

straight gauge are overkill in that application.
If the spoke tension is up I don't think its the wheels flexing.
Check if the hubs are loose, check if any pivots on your frame are loose.

 

[buildyourown]

High spoke tension is what makes a wheel feel stiff. It is hard to build a wheel with even enough tension to where you can get it high. Does that make sense? You want it high, but unless it's very even, high tension will ruin the wheel.

 

[foamy mojo]

Thanks for the replies.

The wheelset is about 3 years old & I haven't looked after it very well. A buddy who's worked on my wheels in the past told me that there's a good chance the rims are just trashed & the nipples are getting worn out.

DB spokes & 5.1d hoops it is!

 

[Lelandjt]

Why do you say thinner (double butted) spokes build a stiffer wheel than straight guage. Seems counterintuitive. I was gonna say to use straight guage and brass nips for the stiffest possible build cuz they can take high tension.

 

[BikeMike]

Dang, I thought I replied to this yesterday. Anyways...the rim is what limits the spoke tension, not the spokes. You'll pull a spoke through a rim way before you get anywhere close to pulling a spoke apart in the middle. Max spoke tensions for individual rims are usually available somewhere on manufactures' websites.

Thick spokes are mostly good because the ends where stress creates weak points in the spoke are thicker (the head and the threads). Double butted spokes achieve this without carting around unnecessary beef in the middle. That said, straight 14g spokes are a bit easier to built up even because they are better at resisting spoke wind up when you get up to higher tensions.


Edit: Also, a hub with wider flange spacing will build a more laterally stiff wheel than a hub with narrow spacing.

 

[Mike B.]

Lots of factors to consider - hubs, spokes, and rims. High tension does not make a wheel stiff in and of itself. A wheel is stiff and will remain so until the spokes become slack. Building to a higher initial tension will allow more margin for error before a spoke becomes slack during use when subjected to higher loads. If building at a lower tension keep an eye on spoke tension more frequently so as not to allow a slack condition.

Thicker spokes are stiffer, no question, but only a small part of that difference shows up in a built wheel when all of the factors are considered.

Agree with the others that if you feeling flex in that build there is something mostly likely wrong like tension or broken bits. I know it's an older thread but if you post up some details on terrain, intended use, riding style, rider weight, etc we could make a more informed recommendation.