[S.K.C.]

...O.K. so I checked the archives first and didn't come up with much, so here are my questions:

1. I have heard that Ti with respect to bike components can have failure issues depending on the application ex: (someone at my local shop said that clydesdale XC guys have bent the top Ti cogs on a high-end shimano cassettes from extreme loading)...

I was wondering where on a D.H. bike would it be acceptable (no risk of failure) to use Ti bolts...?

I am considering:

Brake rotor bolts
Shock Mounts
Fork Bolts on Axle Clamps (Boxxer)
Fork Crown Bolts
Chain Ring Bolts


2. On Mojo Suspension's web site they sell Ti bolts to replace the ones used to mount the shock eyelets to the frame of your bike... Would these bolts be for race only, or could you use them as a permanent fixture on your bike?

3. Would 6AL4V Ti bolts like the ones found at tekbolt.com, titaniumfasteners.com, and racebolts.com be acceptable for the stresses of D.H. and freeriding?

4. Aside from the metallurgy classifications (6AL4V) what about D.I.N. ratings? What are they? Are they ratings for Ti or AL bolts?

Thanx,

S.K.C.

 

[qualude]

I guess one of the first questions would be: why?
If you are riding a DH bike, why the Ti? The possible .25 lb weight savings, if you have a bunch of bolts, would be easier to accomplish by leaving your watch at home when you ride. Durability and CHEAP replacement are much more important.

 

[MDBullit]

I certainly wouldn't use it for rotor bolts. However, the other applications you mentioned should be fine.

 

[S.K.C.]

Qualude - I'm interested in Ti because I race DH, and I'm experimenting w/ a new frame and setup this year...

The possible .25 lb weight savings, if you have a bunch of bolts, would be easier to accomplish by leaving your watch at home when you ride.

I always hear people making the mistake of saying: "Well just take a dump before your ride or leave your gold teeth at home Lil' John..." =) But that has nothing to do with removing mass from the bike. Rider mass and bike mass are independent of each other when it comes to handling dynamics of the bike. As stated in Vol.2 No.15 from Dirt Magazine: "... light bikes are easier to get going and accelerate, easier to slow down, easier to move around, and are more efficient in relation to the energy you are putting in..." This is critical in a DH race bike.

I do agree with you that cheap, serviceable parts are a good idea, but I'm trying to push the envelope here a bit...

 

[oldfart]

I would only use weaker Ti bolts in places which did not require high strength, like a water bottle cage, shifter mount, that sort of thing. Never would I use them for a stem bolt on a DH bike. Rotor bolts might be fine though as those don't need to be super tight and I think they would be strong enough in shear. Crown bolts I think are also low torque items so perhaps it would be OK there especially considering that there are more than one bolt holding things together.

But I question the value of Ti bolts on a DH bike too.

 

[budgetrider]

If UR worried about fatigue n that try alternating bolts - esp for brake rotors n such. 1 Ti bolt, 1 steel bolt, 1 Ti, 1 Steel etc. If you do that it'll be safe for anything, stem clamp n whatever. Then every 5 rides or so chek the torque with a torque wrench. If the ti bolts are staying as tight as the steel 1's then you know they're safe. If they're not, then you've got reason to worry. Every metal will fatigue a bit before failure - so bolt looseness especially when compared with a steel bolt sharing the same load will tell U right away if the Ti bolts are up to par with the steel.