My buddy has his pump track bike set up tubeless with DTHs and loses like 10-15 psi per hour. No obvious weep holes, but noticeably loses pressure.
Toobless Tape Troubles.
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
Per hour?
if there's no obvious sealant on the outside of the tyre that has to be poor taping, shit sealant or a leaking valve/valve tape interface?...
mine don't go down at all holding 65 right up until I've punctured or the sealant gives out at the puncture hole as I described. With hissing sealant spraying 360 while riding along it's rather obvious to spot
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Ah. Right. Got a few of those kits. Never got one to work well yet.
But even if I could, bits of tyre worm sticking out a smooth pumptrack tyre would give me the ick
I'd be putting a regular patch in that if it was me, vulcanizing glue, patch the inside.
how are you guys liking the DTH tires? i hadn't heard of them before, they look good. any idea how they compare to the holy roller?
Same here. I'm running R-Sys SLR wheels and they come with an OG Mavic closed rimbed but are from 2011 or '12 and I'm not sure if you can run tooobless ready tires on them. I'm not too keen on a dismounting tyre going +80k's downhill. Also Conti only recommends 7.5 bar/109 psi max for the tlr 25 mm GP5000 and I also don't like lower pressures than that.
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It was in another thread recently - I'm sold on using tubeless rim strips ( the rubbery / plastic type ) instead of taping rims. No tape fitting drama. They are also provide a more resilient seal vs tape. I was very cheap last year and kept denting the shit out of an aluminum rim. The final straw was guinea pigging a gap on a trail I was building in the fall. Suffice to say, I came up a little short. The rim cracked & buckled in a little. A solid wheel build & the tubeless strip had me roll away having never burped.
Whose strips?
Ya gotta name names, man.
I won't ever ride another Conti after GP4000s and GP4Seasons tread delaminating from casings.
Both warrantied. and granted it was a few years back now. But not forgotten and Fuck that at 40mph+ in spandex
I've only ever ridden a holy roller on the front of a BMX. compared to that. On tarmac the DTH is grippier. impossible to compare rolling speed though the DMR MOTO RT I had on previous to the DTH did have a similar tread design to the holy Roller. DTH is definitely grippier on smoother harder surfaces but the DMR was better off road. DTH is a fair bit lighter but surprisingly also seems harder work to accelerate when pedalling but does hold speed/momentum really well, gains speed pumping no problem and has immense grip in the local Velosolutions asphalt pump tracks. Overall I do like them but I did expect them to pedal better. I commute on that bike in dry weather, and my roadbike in the wet and the roadbike is a dream to pedal in comparison.
The DHT's tread design and compound are extremely prone to picking up small debris, little stones etc. Hence the massive increase in punctures I guess.
A workmate who previously ran 2.1 DTH now swears by Schwalbe Billy Bonkers for pumptrack use. but he complained the DTH were lethal grip wise. (Unless the 2.1 is vastly different they're totally not) but he does spend most of his riding time on a 170mm Enduro bike on Maxxgrip DHF/Rs
I make hundreds of tubeless setups a year. Spank rims are huge PITA to run tubeless. Anyway, just like some1 said, you should run a wider tape than rim id. Other thing that comes to my mind is valve hole, especially when you report it leaking through the nipples. What I do is, using small half round file, I cut a perfect hole in tape. Tape easily tears off at the hole edge. It works on both alloy and carbon rims:Has thecome to a consensus regarding tubeless tape?
Been changing between gravity and trail tires a couple times this year and the tape I have been using does not hold up well. I have been using Kapton tape. (The non-bike original version of Spanks Fratelli tape) Double wrap and never had a problem with it sealing, but it seems easily dislodged by tire removal.
I picked up some Muc-off and gave it a go. Cleaned and alcohol wiped the rim. Spotless it was. It went on real nice, no bubbles or wrinkles - spent a bit of time with a microfibre cloth making sure everything was pushed into the infuriating oobah profile Spank uses. Looked fucking perfect, ready for product marketing shots. Tire on, Stans race in, aired up, and leaked like a motherfucker arouind half a dozen spoke holes?
Tire off, rim wiped down, and it still looks good, no bubble, wrinkles, folded edges - nothing. No idea.
The only thing I can think of is that the single wrap as instructed along with pushing the tape into the profile, even through a cloth has pin holed the tape on the spoke hole edges. Just a guess.
It is not like I have tried a whole bunch. So far Stan's, Gorilla, Kapton and now Muc-Off.
Gorilla seems to hold up the best, but I really don't want to remove what it is on cause of residue horror stories, especially as it has been on for several years now. It is sealing up a old non tubeless DT rim just fine though several tire changes.
So, double wrap the Muc-Off?
... or back to the Kapton?
...or what do I get to waste far to much money on far too little product next?
What do you guys use and what are your thoughts on it?
here is a quick vid I made
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photos.app.goo.gl
I was going to say: The Bontrager TLR strips look to have some moulded bead seat? May or may not play nice with the seat that already exists in most rims?
I have not used anything on the Spank rims other than Muc-Off and Kapton.I make hundreds of tubeless setups a year. Spank rims are huge PITA to run tubeless. Anyway, just like some1 said, you should run a wider tape than rim id. Other thing that comes to my mind is valve hole, especially when you report it leaking through the nipples. What I do is, using small half round file, I cut a perfect hole in tape. Tape easily tears off at the hole edge. It works on both alloy and carbon rims:
here is a quick vid I made
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Muc-Off installed according to instructions resulted in spoke hole leaks etc.
A double wind of Kapton has never leaked in any way. Valve stem hole is made with an old Die ejector pin ground down into a scriber. Very hard and very sharp. A small start hole, then thread the valve though the hole. Never a problem. My only issue is having to re-tape after changing tires a couple times.
I'm thinking no tubeless strip is going to work with the wonky Spank profile, so will probably pick up some DT 32mm for next time.
They are relatively cheap. Go to local trek shop, bring rim, see what will fit width wise or looks close. They are one-and-done use, so you have to get another when you take the strip off, but the strips are so good that it's pretty much a non-issue. Try it with one and see if it'll work, then do the other side if it does.
Which has been updated by the fatbike crowd with Fatty and Skinny Strippers from what I understand.Also, ghetto tubeless FTW.
I'm also a fan of the 24" split tube ghetto method. A side benefit of these is when you trim off the excess that is outside the rim bead - it adds just this little bit extra mat'l between that rim sidewall pinch cutting the tire.
Hmm, that sounds a bit like the Conti mtb tyres of old. What are you running instead? I've tried Mavic which were grippy but very short lasting, Schwalbe One which were just shit and some Michelins a long time ago. I'm back on Conti GPs and immediately felt at home.
There's a reusable Caffelatex rim strip too, but the bit suggesting a layer of electrical tape first sounds a bit sucky.
www.effettomariposa.eu
I'd still rather someone made a heatshrink rim strip.
Caffélatex Tubeless Rim Strip
**Save €5 on Fat versions!** Caffélatex Tubeless Strip is a very light, puncture-proof and transparent tubeless rim strip that makes tubeless conversions quick and easy. Strip allows tubeless conversion of most standard bicycle wheels, using Tubeless or Tubeless-Ready tyres and Caffélatex or...
www.effettomariposa.eu
I'd still rather someone made a heatshrink rim strip.
I think the thinnest, most sticky-est tape wins. To me that was Schwalbe's tape that came with their dual core dealio set up (never tried buying it by itself). 2nd place is Stan's. IMO. Which is what I currently use. Obviously, Yes, width matters. (that's what she said)
Also, Schwalbe's tire levers are awesome as they are super thin. Too bad I lost them on a ride somewhere. Otherwise I use Pedros tire levers. You know, the yellow ones. And they are not thin, but are comfortable on the hands.
Also, Schwalbe's tire levers are awesome as they are super thin. Too bad I lost them on a ride somewhere. Otherwise I use Pedros tire levers. You know, the yellow ones. And they are not thin, but are comfortable on the hands.
And I got a puncture on my first road ride after typing this. Can confirm it works though. My road tires are 26c, pumped up to 85psi with 1-2oz of sealant. Lost a good bit of pressure before it sealed but it was still rideable as long as you weren't railing corners. Evenutally stopped to top it off with CO2 and it held up fine for another ~18 miles until I got home.
And everyone laughed at me when I started building wheels using rims without inner spoke holes...
How? Mavic UST or did you get your hands on custom rims and build by feeding the nipple through the valve hole?
I thought maybe this was PSP talking about wheelbuilding.
Light Bicycle rims that I ask for without inner holes.
Start opposite from valve hole and work toward it.
Stick derailleur cable in spoke hole and push to valve hole.
Reach tweezers in inner valve hole and grab cable.
Thread nipple on cable and use gravity, wiggling, and pulling to bring it to the spoke hole.
This technique can also be used to replace a nipple without having to cut and plug or redo rim tape.
The rim must have at least 15ish mm vertical space inside.
Didn't I say this already?
And whatever happened to magnets (and a cut piece of spoke to drag the nipple) ?