fancy indeed. i'm still using a 15 year old blackburn pump that's slightly bent from rolling around the back of my truck going to DH races. and the pressure gauge is off by about 10 psi.
Tool Nerds, Questions and Tool Snobbery
- Thread starter HardtailHack
- Start date
I despise mine. It can't pass air without the presta valve core, and as such, it doesn't move enough air fast enough to seat a tubeless tire over a regular pump. I have a regular non-chamber HV bell pump I got at the supermarket for $18 and if I can't fill up a tire with that (no chamber), the Blackburn definitely won't, it doesn't move air fast enough.
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Hmm, yeah this one has a second chamber thing. Just doesn’t work for crap.
New tool to inventory: DIY dishing tool, arms are laser cut 3mm steel, middle support is aluminum, the end parts are delrin.
Attachments
Nice work! What else have you made? Looks clean.
Well, a lots of tools for servicing Fox shox a forks, truing stand, hand dyno, some are on pictures in this thread: https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/tool-nerds-questions-and-tool-snobbery.288893/page-4#post-4492877
All this time I’m beginning to wonder if there is any real point to dishing in a stand. It’s in your frame that really matters and they aren't 100% perfect, so might as well true to the frame?
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So, are any of those mini torque wrenches that do a small range of presets worth a shit?
like the Park ATD 1.2?
looking for a travel unit that doesn’t suck…
like the Park ATD 1.2?
looking for a travel unit that doesn’t suck…
Not sure how the mechanism works but most wrenches stay more accurate if they are backed off when not in use, the Park may be different though.
I like the look of these-
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Seriously though. I have them. I never use them. Hand feel has served me well for 30 years. Things that are so delicate that they need exactly 4.9Nm I just don't have on my bikes.
I am not having any luck with taps and dies, so many damn standards!
I bought a Koken tap holder set(which is gorgeous) but it seems the Japanese have different size square drives for taps than us Aussies, today 7 Ruko dies arrived and the 10mm has a larger OD than the 12mm, fuck! They do have a lead in on both sides which is nice but there is no adjuster screw to adjust for wear, that explains the cheap price.
I have some Hazet square drive button die holders coming and now I have no idea which dies will fit them as it seems even the Germans chop and change standards.
I bought a Koken tap holder set(which is gorgeous) but it seems the Japanese have different size square drives for taps than us Aussies, today 7 Ruko dies arrived and the 10mm has a larger OD than the 12mm, fuck! They do have a lead in on both sides which is nice but there is no adjuster screw to adjust for wear, that explains the cheap price.
I have some Hazet square drive button die holders coming and now I have no idea which dies will fit them as it seems even the Germans chop and change standards.
I got some real nice die holders recently but I’m having similar issues as you….My nicest ones don’t fit the dies I have, so I found a used thread cutting attachment for my small lathe. It’s rare and supposedly sketchy to use without a clutch/brake or variable speed motor. I‘ll have to be quick with the reverse lever and connect a VFD? I dunno, we’ll see.
This is an older version of the one I got but shows how it drives the cross slide.
The green box and gears in this pic is the one I got.
Gears for different thread pitches. It does metric and imperial.
I have one that I got when a bike shop, I worked in, closed down but don’t remember ever using it. I flip the wheel in the stand to check.
That assumes though that the bikes are perfect and the issue I'm running into more and more is just that...they ain't. They aren't far off, but it seems to make a lot more sense to a true a wheel in a frame or adjust it to the frame after the stand at this point in my wheel endeavors.
When I told my boss I wanted a 2000A amp clamp because we work on diesels he said we won't work on anything that draws that. This is a small 4cyl diesel, his readings were always varied because really cheap meters can have a pretty low sample rate, or he had the clamp on AC and assumed it was broken.
Also you shouldn't run 100A through 10mm cross section cable with a shitty crimp at the end.
I get to see some stupid shit, people smoking around big lead acid batteries as they charge, a charger sitting on bags of chlorine, so, so many shit crimps.
This is pretty handy for sizing cable, not sure if I have to legally do it to size as I only work on LV stuff as I'm too basic to be trusted with ouchie voltages.
www.jcalc.net
Also you shouldn't run 100A through 10mm cross section cable with a shitty crimp at the end.
I get to see some stupid shit, people smoking around big lead acid batteries as they charge, a charger sitting on bags of chlorine, so, so many shit crimps.
This is pretty handy for sizing cable, not sure if I have to legally do it to size as I only work on LV stuff as I'm too basic to be trusted with ouchie voltages.
Cable Size Calculator AS/NZS 3008 | jCalc.NET | jCalc.net
Cable size calculator for current rating, voltage drop, loop impedance, earth cable and short circuit, based on Australia and New Zealand standard AS/NZS 3008.
www.jcalc.net
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Lightweight printed titanium hammer. Doesn't make sense, but
I really need to get one of the cassette lock ring tools with handle. Been fumbling with the dumb little Park one for too long.
Should be no surprise that burned out. That lug/connector calls for a 1/0 gauge cable and they used an 8 awg instead.When I told my boss I wanted a 2000A amp clamp because we work on diesels he said we won't work on anything that draws that. This is a small 4cyl diesel, his readings were always varied because really cheap meters can have a pretty low sample rate, or he had the clamp on AC and assumed it was broken.View attachment 167037
Also you shouldn't run 100A through 10mm cross section cable with a shitty crimp at the end.
View attachment 167038
I get to see some stupid shit, people smoking around big lead acid batteries as they charge, a charger sitting on bags of chlorine, so, so many shit crimps.
This is pretty handy for sizing cable, not sure if I have to legally do it to size as I only work on LV stuff as I'm too basic to be trusted with ouchie voltages.
Cable Size Calculator AS/NZS 3008 | jCalc.NET | jCalc.net
Cable size calculator for current rating, voltage drop, loop impedance, earth cable and short circuit, based on Australia and New Zealand standard AS/NZS 3008.
Yeah I'm not sure what happened, they bought the thing from auction and it came with a 100A charger, should have had a 60A tops. Not sure how the batteries will cope long term, probably not very well.
Don't need a cheap Etalon 531B? I tried to contact the seller but they said they couldn't work out how to do an international return then stopped replying, that was a year ago.
I want some of these calipers in 200mm but $626USD is too much-
Does anyone else know of any others with long crosspoints? The only others I could find were Helios which were also too dear, they don't have to be digital but can't be Chinese.
EDIT- Ended up buying a 200mm one of these, I thought the PITA name was funny and the flat head design will be pretty handy for me.
Boooo, caliper came today, Japanese price but made in China.
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I don’t but thanks anyways. There‘s so much of that stuff local to me due to the Swiss watchmaking industry. It’s a treasure trove of old machines and tools.
I have always been on the look out for a cool old Wilton bullet vise. Found this one in an old shed. It cleaned up well and is almost ready to get back into service. There's new jaws on the way, serrated steel ones.
Sweet find! I too have a thing for Wilton bullet vises. Always have my eyes open for an 8" jaw version, but those seem to go for $1K+, even used.
Yeah that's out of range for me. I found this one but then spent $130 on new jaws and powdercoat. It's a C1 stamped 3-53 so that would put it at 1948. It had a good 1/4" coating of dust and grease all the way around. It's not pristine but is 100% functional.
Speaking of expensive vices, I want one of these so bad https://fireballtool.com/fireball-hardtail-bench-vise-deposit-for-pre-order/
I have absolutely no need for a vice that big, but I’m sure if I bought one I could find a way to justify it
I have absolutely no need for a vice that big, but I’m sure if I bought one I could find a way to justify it
DIY Vise Plans
These are the plans to the DIY Vise video. You can build it as is, or customize based on your parts and material on hand. This is a PDF, no DXF files available. Dimensions are only available in inches.
fireballtool.com
All you need is a welder, waterjet, some plate steel and you can make your own!
JM, if you true/dish to a frame you know is not aligned correctly, how is that any better than knowing that at least your wheel is properly dished? What points are you using for reference?
I'm old school but I use my dishing tool every time I build a wheel, and to check dish when periodically truing/re-tensioning (which admittedly, is not that often these days).
I'm old school but I use my dishing tool every time I build a wheel, and to check dish when periodically truing/re-tensioning (which admittedly, is not that often these days).
I wish I still had access to a waterjet and tons of scrap armor plate. Didn’t abuse my access when I could, now I’m left with no mega-vice and having to hand cut things out is steel I had to pay for like a peasant.DIY Vise Plans
These are the plans to the DIY Vise video. You can build it as is, or customize based on your parts and material on hand. This is a PDF, no DXF files available. Dimensions are only available in inches.
All you need is a welder, waterjet, some plate steel and you can make your own!
First shop I worked at made there own, everything else would break.
Wish I had a picture of it.
Well, bikes just aren't accurate down to the tenth of a mm in my experience and they do vary a few mm as far as dish, so by dishing to the frame, you at least have a better chance of the front wheel lined up with the rear wheel. It's not a huge difference...but it seems more accurate for real-world. When you are on the stand spending a few min to dish over 2mm...well, that becomes completely arbitrary IMO, perfect dish doesn't really exist on the frame, the frame is what it is.
We used to be able to get nearly perfect alignment with rigid bikes using frame alignment and wheel dishing tools, but those days are long gone. Still, if your frame is out of alignment, now sure how dishing to the frame will result in the wheels being better aligned. I suppose you could check frame alignment and dish to correct it, but that creates questions of your reference points, how things change with suspension travel, etc. I dunno, guess I'd rather know that my wheels are properly dished and eliminate that as an issue, but old habits die hard.
Not sure if any of you good people mess with older engines but I spotted a timing light that seems sensible, it's a self powered(one wire) timing light that doubles as a torch. Since it's LED you can check scatter on the coil lead without wondering if the globe will blow.
I bought a supposedly decent one with advance and it is stupid, there is no zero degree detent so the slightest bump turns the dial, the thing is stupidly large and the pickup is metal and most of the things I work on have the alt output terminal right near No1 lead.
I bought a supposedly decent one with advance and it is stupid, there is no zero degree detent so the slightest bump turns the dial, the thing is stupidly large and the pickup is metal and most of the things I work on have the alt output terminal right near No1 lead.
i would recommend you look at garage sales or eBay and find a older one. Or an estate sale store.
Nah this one should be fine, all the usefully bright xenon ones seem to have all the adjusty stuff I don't want and the leads get all tangled up so I'd rather have just the pickup wire.
This is what I have currently(badge engineered Chinese thing) and used a 20+yo old one before that, they are both crap but in different ways.
