Tool Nerds, Questions and Tool Snobbery
- Thread starter HardtailHack
- Start date
I've got all Fluke gear now. The general use multi is a 117 which has auto-voltage (ac/dc) for unknown stuff.
For instrumentation stuff I've got a 179, 771 process 4-20mA clamp and a fucken awesome little Kyoritsu tong 2300R (tiny and does AC/DC tong testing).
Dunno about audible beep tho. What are you using?
Yeah my old man is a Fluke guy but I have a habit of leaving stuff on site and people know the big yellow is worth big money so a weird name that people don't know is mote likely to end up back in my hands, hahaha!
Multimeters are Hioki DT4252, and DT4281, the cheaper 4252 will beep when it registers a voltage but the 4281 won't, working in cramped engine bays trying to probe through silicone seals the audible beep is awesome as you often can't see the display, they also swapped the DC and AC selector locations on the two meters which is quite annoying.
Neither meter will do what some(all?) Flukes do and allow you to display both a max and min voltage recorded, and that is awesome for a quick battery test. My amp clamp will do it but I think it has to be doing current and voltage at the same time, does logging which is handy.
Odd that you mention the Kyoritsu, I bought a 2010 yesterday, nobody else made anything that suit my wants as well, it is supposedly super accurate and goes to 20A, it looks like it's straight outta the 80's.
Its a bit of a wank at first but the Fluke 233 has a detachable screen which comes in real handy for placing in line of sight sometimes. One guy at the last job had one and we used the detachable screen way more than you'd think.
The Kyoritsu stuff is good quality - I'd run their gear no worries. I'm stoked on the mini tong, especially in cabinets that are a complete clusterfuck. The low key appearance makes it less likely to end up missing as well. The yellow Fluke cases actually come off to make them look boring and grey which is convenient if you're working around sticky fingered types. I've got a shitty old CABAC multi in the ute which i basically just keep to lend out if someone needs one (although it registers high frequency than my Flukes! - I needed 400Hz for an aircraft power supply recently and the Fluke topped out at 200Hz).
I did see the remote screen, long leads and a magnetic strap are good enough for me.
I'm half tempted to get one of these and just taking the cheaper meter for the things the Maestro won't do.
The elec box is growing too quickly, hahaha!
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For the tool super snobs.
drpd.cc
PB Swiss SwissGrip Tire Lever (PB 8675.9-170)
Purveyors of bespoke bicycles and premium tools. Shop elite brands like Belle Cycles, PB Swiss, KNIPEX, and USAG.
drpd.cc
That does look ideal for removing fork seals.For the tool super snobs.
PB Swiss SwissGrip Tire Lever (PB 8675.9-170)
Purveyors of bespoke bicycles and premium tools. Shop elite brands like Belle Cycles, PB Swiss, KNIPEX, and USAG.
As a side tool snob question, what are people's favorites for grease and method of application? I'm still in the dark ages using a normal tube of Park PolyLube (no complaints) and then smearing on with my finger. Not sure if switching mostly to a grease gun or one of the "grease pot" type setups with a brush would be better.
Just got this guy, and initial review is that its the bomb. No cartridge, just a reservoir you can stuff full of your favorite grease and neatly dispense. Same thing as the gun Park Tools offers, just not blue.
Mini Grease Gun | Astro Pneumatic Tools
• Heavy duty, lightweight and easy to handle • Holds 3 ounces of lubricant • Can be operated with one hand • Easily lubricates mechanism of air tools with g ...
www.astrotools.com
Those grease guns are great. I recommend finding one with a longer tip. 
I also use the grease pot/brush approach for certain applications, so the short answer for me is both.
As for the grease itself, I've been using Phil Wood waterproof grease for about a million years and see no reason to change, but the Park stuff seems fine too.
I also use the grease pot/brush approach for certain applications, so the short answer for me is both.
As for the grease itself, I've been using Phil Wood waterproof grease for about a million years and see no reason to change, but the Park stuff seems fine too.
I think I've got about 5 different greases...
- Park tube, used for pedal threads, seat posts etc
- Slick honey, finger application for suspension
- P600 red stuff, SRAM coil boxxer stuff
- super lube tube with grease gun head, used for turner zerks
- old manitou sticky stuff which turner used to recommend before super lube
Not sure it gets more snobby than this. But I love this thing. I use it 5-10 time a day.
I have Phil's grease, but I find it turns black and nasty sometimes.Those grease guns are great. I recommend finding one with a longer tip.
I also use the grease pot/brush approach for certain applications, so the short answer for me is both.
As for the grease itself, I've been using Phil Wood waterproof grease for about a million years and see no reason to change, but the Park stuff seems fine too.
I picked up some sort of farm equipment grease that is red and it has been awesome. Its super sticky and it doesn't wash away at all.
It just smells rank.
I just use Slickoleum for everything now because I know at some point I will drop the tub and end up with another Slicko blob on the concrete.
At least the new tub is better than the old margarine type container, still, I'd like a threaded lid.
The specs on Slickoleum are properly impressive too, I assumed it was all lizard industry BS but there is a proper test sheet avaliable for the stuff.
Used to use this for everything too, partially due to having that ridiculous margarine tub (and now the even bigger one), but I find it does wash away if you ride in really wet conditions.
But on the plus side, it stays pretty clean, compared to Phil's like I mentioned before (turning black).
Next time I'm at work I will take a pic of my Knipex collection. I went a little overboard, haha. But they are amazing to use.
I have owned a cobra forever, didn't even look at kimpex stuff until the toolbox wars thing started, we will see how much I end up with.
I've bought a pair of dikes in like 2011. the cable cutters are really nice and leave a really clean crimp on endcaps.
I have just started on the Stahlwille collection, it is crippling me, but when you find a brand that makes stuff that just works you have to keep buying it.
Shiny chrome tools look pretty but cover them in brake fluid or ATF and they are as slippery as an eel. La la Laaa.
EDIT- I bought one of the Knipex plier wrench thingies coz of this thread but I can't work out what it is any good for, how is it any better than a wide jaw shifting spanner?
I'm gonna swap it out for a 12" Lobtex, same weight as the Knipex but with more leverage and grips three flats which might be handy on bigger nuts.
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Maybe I need to get a decent adjustable, cause every one I've used has just enough slop in them to a) never quite fit tightly on the nut and b) require readjusting frequently.
And yes, I do realize that adjustable wrenches are directional.
Ha, get a Nepros shifting spanner, it's the only one I have seen with a direction arrow.
For non dential people, Lobster have zero backlash adjustables but none of the super wide jaws have the feature.
*I forgot to list the small tub of SRAM, DOT compatible grease for brakes.
Bought myself a Lobster a while back simply based on the name, intending to just leave it in the truck for emergency use, and actually, it's a really great wrench. Now my Bahco is in the truck, and the Lobster is my go-to when the Nipex won't do the trick.
Really all cheap adjustable wrenches should have those arrows, if you're buying the Nepros, you probably already know which was it's supposed to turn, but if you're buying a $5 adjustable at Home Despot, those may just save your fitting or knuckles. That Nepros is damn nice, don't need it, maybe buy it.
Looks like a Pedro's Downhill Tire Lever, which is half the price. I've got 4 of these Bad Larrys and they're great for all manner of stuff, including getting super tight tires on and off rims.For the tool super snobs.
PB Swiss SwissGrip Tire Lever (PB 8675.9-170)
Purveyors of bespoke bicycles and premium tools. Shop elite brands like Belle Cycles, PB Swiss, KNIPEX, and USAG.
Downhill Tire Lever - Tools - Pedro's NA
pedros.com
Anyone using one of the cordless inflators? The Milwaukee one looks nice but I'm primarily on the Makita battery platform. They have a new-ish one out but it doesn't have a few features that seem like they'd be nice to have. Mainly trying to avoid having to throw the bulky floor pump in the car every time I go for a ride.
I've got the Dewalt inflator and cannot say enough good things about it. Runs off of 20V batteries, 12V, and 110V, unlike some of the other brands. Fast & accurate and does a decent job with both bike and car tires.
Buying the Makita inflator next time I hit the Depot, so I'll report back. Have the Milwaukee M12 and Makita 18v platforms, but the 18v inflator seems like a better bet, if only because the batteries should last longer when doing truck tires.
This for the Tacoma?
Thus far I haven't found any battery powered options that are adequate airing up the 35s on my one ton. Granted those are big tires and asking them to achieve 60+ psi is a tall order.
Most definitely. I just turn the dial to my desired pressure, then hit the go button and it'll just auto cutoff when it hits the set psi.
Yeah, I have a powertank, but looking for something less bulky to carry. The Taco is absolute garbage on a dirt road at anything over 30 PSI, so I want something that'll let me air back up the tires from 20ish to 36 and I'm throwing airbags on the back so those will need to get aired back up before reattaching the trailer. Home Depot has a pretty lax return policy, so I'll give it a try, and if it's a PITA return it and get another Viair.
When I had my Tacoma, I mounted an ARB single with a Slee Offroad bracket under the hood. More spendy than a battery powered compressor, and pretty comparable to a Viair setup, but that thing was good to fill all 4 tires from 16 to 35 psi fairly quickly.