$191/delivered for the installation driver, two batteries and a 3/8 m12 ratchet. Guess I’ll find out how useful it is.
If I learned how to twerk I could hammer things while having my butt plugged.
The torque limiting + hex is the best part of the whole thing, with the swappable heads being a bonus. Interface is a bit goofy with the push buttons forward/reverse switch, but it seems they prioritized a smidgen of additional clearance vs leveraging the same interface almost every drill/driver has ever used. The magnetic bit on the front comes in handy though.
I'm cutting thread on some stainless rod.
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Deets? Share with the class plz.Bite the bullet and get a cerakote setup. It holds up way better than spray paint, and it lays on super thin so it doesn’t mess up tolerances. Check out my super cheap setup, I think between the guns and oven I actually have less in equipment than a quart of the coating costs. But that coating goes a really really long way.
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ok so I run the two gun set from harbor freight, use the small gun for small parts. I guess I left out of the price the air compressor because I already have one. The oven is a heat gun (harbor freight, obviously), a cardboard box, and one of the Chinese 115v thermostat relays. The relays are like $5 on aliexpress or like $15 on amazon. If you’re going to do big stuff you’ll want a sand blaster for prep, but red scotch bright works fine for prepping small parts (even though cerakotes instructions say it doesn’t, they’ll tell you of your a big custom that is ok). You’ll also want like at least a tub or something your parts fit in so you can degrease them, I just used my ultrasonic cleaner with simple green, but just a Rubbermaid tote with simple green will work. If you’re going to run an oven to much larger than mine you may want to get two relays and two heat guns or build a better insulated one, I was pushing the limit with my setup for doing spokes. Then you can do cool shit like this.
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Pneumatic nailers suck. variations in wood density mean that driving depth varies all over the place.
That may be, but I've framed enough by hand and by gun to know that if it's a significant number of fasteners, I'm bringing out the gun, slight variations in driving depth be damned. I can appreciate wanting to hand nail, but IMO it falls on the wrong side of the time-value spectrum.
Funny you say that, I'm actually going pneumatic because of a recent experience with a cordless gun. Old man brought his Milwaukee over to attach 4 pieces of sheathing and the weight of that thing loaded + battery was murder.
Most pneumatic guns rebuilds are simple o-rings and seals, nothing crazy. And given how ubiquitous parts are, they'll still be available 10+ years from now. Being diligent about oiling will go a long ways towards extending life.
What sorts of connections are you making? Wood to wood, or brackets? 3-1/2x.162 is the standard around here for Simpson brackets into 4x lumber. 3-1/4x131 is all your wood to wood connections through 2x stock, hence the Matabo shoots them. Nobody shoots 3-1/2s because they always poke through when sistering.
Wood to wood framing, sheathing, subfloor, aiming to get a framing nailer that can handle all those. The Metabo looks like it can.
Really? That's uh, a different approach. So anyone can do whatever they want whenever they want and there's nothing to stop them?
They are designed to the worst case load scenario, which is the high school house party.
Right, my town has adopted the stretch code, which imposes stricter requirements on everyone, particularly in regards to energy efficiency. I get it, but at the same time thats going to be a huge middle finger to a huge number of people.
