Toshi's thread
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There is *very* good money to be made in the trades these days. It's about time.
cut the spokes, no turning back now on this "convert commuter to proper 29er rims/tires" project:
www.threads.net
relevant to me jumping in the deep end, possible shops who might be able to rebuild the wheel (with me as a last resort, of course):
ebikes.ca: won't rebuild/build wheels for hub motors not bought from them
303 Bike Shop, formerly The Bicycle Broker: used to do such things but after the rebrand they don't. they suggested:
Schwab Cycles: they don't work on electric hub motors at all
Electric Bike Outfitters: only work on their own house brand
E-bike of Colorado: only would rebuild in the OEM pattern/size
but one of them did suggest Precision E-bikes of Fort Collins… who will do it! I'll bring the hub motor up to them on Saturday as I have to work at 1 PM today and the wife has the electric car.
Toshi Clark (@toshi.clark) on Threads
No turning back now on the rebuilding of the wheel… Those spokes were beefy and difficult to cut!
www.threads.net
relevant to me jumping in the deep end, possible shops who might be able to rebuild the wheel (with me as a last resort, of course):
ebikes.ca: won't rebuild/build wheels for hub motors not bought from them
303 Bike Shop, formerly The Bicycle Broker: used to do such things but after the rebrand they don't. they suggested:
Schwab Cycles: they don't work on electric hub motors at all
Electric Bike Outfitters: only work on their own house brand
E-bike of Colorado: only would rebuild in the OEM pattern/size
but one of them did suggest Precision E-bikes of Fort Collins… who will do it! I'll bring the hub motor up to them on Saturday as I have to work at 1 PM today and the wife has the electric car.
DT's site is a hot mess with regard to wading through their various lines of rims. No universal "I want these dimensions" filter up top. Anyway, since I need 36 spokes to match the hub's flanges 
my choices are a bit limited.
This one looks quite well suited. 29" x 36 holes. Eyelets. Only a pinned joint but I don't have a choice there. 30 mm i.d. And overbuilt, for a system weight up to 180 kg!
DT Alpine spokes for the rear. will go Alpine III for the front. Still need to decide what to do re fork/spacing/wheel options, and no time better than the present before my shift.
my choices are a bit limited.This one looks quite well suited. 29" x 36 holes. Eyelets. Only a pinned joint but I don't have a choice there. 30 mm i.d. And overbuilt, for a system weight up to 180 kg!
DT Alpine spokes for the rear. will go Alpine III for the front. Still need to decide what to do re fork/spacing/wheel options, and no time better than the present before my shift.
The fork of choice appears to be the Surly Dinner Fork. A tiny bit tight on tire clearance nominally but should be fine in practice, or so I hope.
(The Salsa CroMoto Grande makes one choose between a straight steerer + shorter axle-crown + QR or tapered + longer + 100 mm through axle, and I need a straight steerer. This Surly one comes in straight steerer + 110 mm Boost through axle flavor. No suspension forks even on sale of decent beefiness are near this price point, so rigid it shall be.)
(The Salsa CroMoto Grande makes one choose between a straight steerer + shorter axle-crown + QR or tapered + longer + 100 mm through axle, and I need a straight steerer. This Surly one comes in straight steerer + 110 mm Boost through axle flavor. No suspension forks even on sale of decent beefiness are near this price point, so rigid it shall be.)
Universal Cycles' wheelbuilder doesn't have the U 663 yet. but they do have a DT Swiss HX 531. Also 29" x 30 mm i.d. with a welded seam! No system weight rating, though.
the F 572 seems the better match/budget choice. sleeve joint, same dimensions, a few more grams, a bit cheaper, and 140 kg system weight. that'll be better.
the F 572 seems the better match/budget choice. sleeve joint, same dimensions, a few more grams, a bit cheaper, and 140 kg system weight. that'll be better.
Why would you pay for a DT 240, when nearly anything will work as a front hub?
edit: Just go for the Bitex one and save $130
Bitex E-Bike 15mm Boost TA 6-Bolt Disc Front Hub - 15x110mm Boost
Bitex E-Bike 15mm Boost TA 6-Bolt Disc Front Hub - 15x110mm Boost :: From $109.99 :: Bitex 110mm Front Hubs
www.universalcycles.com
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laziness in scrolling down their hub interface in the wheel builder (plus they don't show component prices in the wheelbuilder)
went back to the hub only page and sorted boost hubs by price, and it'll be cheapest actually to get a Shimano Centerlock boost hub + new rotor.
in grass-related news, after cracking the second set of valves over this 9 year period in the house on our nominally no-blowout sprinkler system I'm going to start having it blown out in the winter
(dude replaced those, and also patched up the drip lines I'd sealed off at two places over the years. so the tree in the back right shall have water once again.)
so dude came out
not compressor or condenser as I'd noted the sound would stop with door opening. so instead it's one of 3 fans: on icemaker, back panel of main fridge's insides, or associated with the freezer. he showed me how to bypass the magnetic door closure sensors so that when the noise recurs (wasn't happening when he came by) then I can peer inside and localize which fan is the culprit.
Why would you pay for a DT 240, when nearly anything will work as a front hub?
edit: Just go for the Bitex one and save $130
Bitex E-Bike 15mm Boost TA 6-Bolt Disc Front Hub - 15x110mm Boost
Bitex E-Bike 15mm Boost TA 6-Bolt Disc Front Hub - 15x110mm Boost :: From $109.99 :: Bitex 110mm Front Hubs
Shimano HB-MT900-B CL "Boost" Front Hub
Shimano HB-MT900-B CL "Boost" Front Hub :: From $44.99 :: Shimano 110mm Thru Axle Front Hubs
www.universalcycles.com
+ a $55 XT 203 mm Centerlock rotor will be cheaper and then I'll have an extra 6 bolt one to swap out when I wear out the other end down the road
could even save $6 more with SLX. but this is fancier
Aren't shimano hubs still cup and cone bearings? I'd rather stick with cartridge.Shimano HB-MT900-B CL "Boost" Front Hub
Shimano HB-MT900-B CL "Boost" Front Hub :: From $44.99 :: Shimano 110mm Thru Axle Front Hubs
+ a $55 XT 203 mm Centerlock rotor will be cheaper and then I'll have an extra 6 bolt one to swap out when I wear out the other end down the road
could even save $6 more with SLX. but this is fancier
oh, you're totally right
Shimano HB-MT900-B Front Hub - Centerlock - Components
Buy the Shimano HB-MT900-B Front Hub - Centerlock online or shop all Components from Competitivecyclist.com.
www.competitivecyclist.com
ok, this. and no new rotor
www.universalcycles.com
Race Face Trace "Boost" Front Hub
Race Face Trace "Boost" Front Hub :: From $63.00 :: Race Face 110mm Front Hubs
www.universalcycles.com
it's two fairly long runs of 6/3 Romex, each maybe 50' in total?... in flex pipe/conduit. poking around this looks to be about $4/foot at the moment for just the wire.
so certainly still padded but he's got to live, too. (and he lives in Grand County prices all the time.)
I get it, especially when its impossible to find someone but really,
Even if I had to core drill through masonry walls, fish the Romex, and hand bend all the EMT, I don't see $1k per hour for labor. I still bet he uses flex conduit, puts in service drops and disconnects outside rather than running from the panel, and straps everything to the exterior.
At least I know I can make a killing doing handy man work
and the biggest thing is he's done work for me before. so I'm 100% down with just giving him access to the house and he gets it done. not having to be involved personally more than this remote level is worth a lot to me.
I will order up this front wheel build, and the Surly fork (from Modern Bike as $20 cheaper so why not), once I hear back from Universal re the U 663 rim's availability or lack thereof.
no sense waiting on the rear hub motor rebuild, because either that happens through the Fort Collins shop or I do it myself with a spoke calculator, etc.
no sense waiting on the rear hub motor rebuild, because either that happens through the Fort Collins shop or I do it myself with a spoke calculator, etc.
At Universal, wheelbuild might not qualify for the actual discount, but will count towards it if you got the fork there too perhaps.I will order up this front wheel build, and the Surly fork (from Modern Bike as $20 cheaper so why not), once I hear back from Universal re the U 663 rim's availability or lack thereof.
no sense waiting on the rear hub motor rebuild, because either that happens through the Fort Collins shop or I do it myself with a spoke calculator, etc.
BeeStand10: 10% off orders over $100
BeeStand15: 15% off orders over $300
everything non-coupon.
changed plans to a fat bike fork + matching through axle wheel, because cheaper as a total package as that fork is only $120, weight doesn't matter, and then absolutely no issues with fender clearance. (could run my existing super wide plastic fenders!)
pls sanity check this before I order. fork is nominally 26" fatbike but at 468 mm axle to crown should fit a 29 x 2.35" tire + fender just fine, I believe. hub is cartridge bearing. should be no clearance issues with frame as the suspension fork on there now is already wide (albeit 135 mm QR front wheel spacing wide).
We had nothing at all here, but the lightning storm somewhere towards Broomfield was spectacular.
Awesome. Good thing the Mazda is long term at the airport.
News has shown that Green Valley Ranch got nailed, so....good luck?Awesome. Good thing the Mazda is long term at the airport.
So you're keeping the LC now?
All jokes aside, that sucks. Hopefully not much damage elsewhere.
Count thus far:
4 PV panels with visible damage. chatted with Tesla Energy and they say that as long as they still produce then don't worry about it. shall check the app in a week: if they're damaged the whole array won't produce anything at all.
10 shallow dents on roof of Land Cruiser. 20 on hood. 1 on right front fender. 1 tiny area of paint loss. From what I know of how paintless dent repair pricing works this will likely be worth going through insurance and their vendors. edit: claim filed online.
I've canceled the June 7 detail for the Land Cruiser--no point with the dents. Will take care of dents, then proceed with the selling process once cleaned up again.
Roofing company coming for ladder + drone inspection of roof at 1:30 pm. (and then to many of my neighbors!)
4 PV panels with visible damage. chatted with Tesla Energy and they say that as long as they still produce then don't worry about it. shall check the app in a week: if they're damaged the whole array won't produce anything at all.
10 shallow dents on roof of Land Cruiser. 20 on hood. 1 on right front fender. 1 tiny area of paint loss. From what I know of how paintless dent repair pricing works this will likely be worth going through insurance and their vendors. edit: claim filed online.
I've canceled the June 7 detail for the Land Cruiser--no point with the dents. Will take care of dents, then proceed with the selling process once cleaned up again.
Roofing company coming for ladder + drone inspection of roof at 1:30 pm. (and then to many of my neighbors!)
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roofing guy didn't have the drone with him today. but said it's going to unequivocally be a new roof based off of what he saw. I'll push for getting those PV panels replaced as well. and the hot tub cover (two tears) or at least its value. and the patio heater. and whatever else I find with a fine toothed comb.
(Land Cruiser claim for those 31 dents is in and under the separate auto policy, of course.)
(Land Cruiser claim for those 31 dents is in and under the separate auto policy, of course.)
I paid my way through college replacing shingles from hail damage, never touched a metal roof. However I would check with your insurance company, there could be savings there not just from hail damage but fire resistance.
Level 3. None of that bitch-ass stuff. Level 3, asphalt shingles. Things are thick and heavy as all hell.
Yup - I know USAA gives a not-insignificant discount for resistant roof materials. Stone coated steel, I believe, is class 4 for impact resistance.
why no class 4, metal, or other? did you consider 'em? do you get a discount for the class 3 vs standard?
Partially what insurance would pay for. HOA doesn't allow metal roof. If I had the choice, I would have done metal.
What kind of horseshit is that?
If you have hail and snow I would suggest a true standing seam or mechanical seam metal. They are nearly a true lifetime roof and is impervious to hail and they are full-length sheets from ridge to fascia meaning zero chance for intrusion. They will roll the profile out of a trailer fit for your roof and the metal trim will also cover all your bare wood fascia, gables, and dormers with true drip edges. All the fasteners are hidden and truly leave a water/ice proof barrier, typically the cost difference comes from the guage. You will see everything from 20-28 gauge metals and it basically comes down to what you are willing to pay for. I've been doing metal for over 20 years and have never had a single issue with any of them.
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