[Sandwich]

Finally getting a hitch installed on the white whale. It'll be a 1.25" hitch, class II. My hitch rack is a 2"/class 3.

Do I get an adapter for 1.25-2"?

Should I pursue a replacement arm for 1.25"?

If the adapter, what's the best way to secure it to the car in a manner that is relatively theft-proof? Bolt between the 2" side of the adapter? Dual locking hitch pins? What's good?

 

[Westy]

This thread excites me.

 

[6thElement]

I use a 2ft length of Abus 8ks chain through the hitch chain loops and wrapped around a bar on the rack.

Hitch pins don't do anything worthwhile if someone wants the rack.

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[Westy]

What kind of rack?

An adapter would push the rack back which would be sub-optimal IMO.

 

[gonefirefightin]

Finally getting a hitch installed on the white whale. It'll be a 1.25" hitch, class II. My hitch rack is a 2"/class 3.

Do I get an adapter for 1.25-2"?

Should I pursue a replacement arm for 1.25"?

If the adapter, what's the best way to secure it to the car in a manner that is relatively theft-proof? Bolt between the 2" side of the adapter? Dual locking hitch pins? What's good?

Harbor freight will be the cheapest and easiest place to find an adapter https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-quarter-inch-to-2-inch-hitch-adapter-65023.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789297558&adsetid=117789297558&product=65023&store=422&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmuiTBhDoARIsAPiv6L_RFSVyEz18Nh72E51dN0d7y16yI7hJLdzts-hBoq_xo06HLeKr65YaAuAhEALw_wcB

 

[Sandwich]

It's a kuat NV base 2.0

I don't intend on leaving the thing overnight or relying on it to protect my bikes...but if it makes enough of an inconvenience that people look elsewhere, that's great. I imagine few people have a ratchet on their person, and those that do are committed to the process and bolt cutters will make quick work of the cable locks anyways.

The bigger question is- will an adapter still give me a stable and safe way of transporting my bikes? The hitch base has a built in anti-wobble device, but the adapter won't. Will it put the rack so far back that it becomes dangerous or hard to drive? The car has 360* cameras and bumper sensors; even though it's huge it's still otherwise easy to park.

 

[StiHacka]

It's a kuat NV base 2.0

I don't intend on leaving the thing overnight or relying on it to protect my bikes...but if it makes enough of an inconvenience that people look elsewhere, that's great. I imagine few people have a ratchet on their person, and those that do are committed to the process and bolt cutters will make quick work of the cable locks anyways.

The bigger question is- will an adapter still give me a stable and safe way of transporting my bikes? The hitch base has a built in anti-wobble device, but the adapter won't. Will it put the rack so far back that it becomes dangerous or hard to drive? The car has 360* cameras and bumper sensors; even though it's huge it's still otherwise easy to park.

How many bikes are planning on towing on that thing?

 

[jonKranked]

what's the longest distance you plan on driving?

also, are 2" hitches not available for your vehicle?

 

[Toshi]

what's the longest distance you plan on driving?

also, are 2" hitches not available for your vehicle?

He doesn’t think that far ahead

At least this one doesn’t require the suction cup rack!

 

[Sandwich]

How many bikes are planning on towing on that thing?

1-2

what's the longest distance you plan on driving?

also, are 2" hitches not available for your vehicle?

No, and I don't need one- I just need to fit my rack to the hitch that I'll be getting. I have no idea how much I'll be driving it. 99% of the time probably 30 miles or less to local trails and roads. Maybe once or twice 5+ hours out of state.

He doesn’t think that far ahead

At least this one doesn’t require the suction cup rack!

Actually, I factored a hitch into my last car purchase, but it wasn't the most important thing. Unlike most people, I don't buy a car based on the chance that I'll have to drive to work in 14" of snow twice a year- I bought a car that is most of what I need for most of what I do. I could have bought a DODGE with a 2" hitch but then I'd own a dodge. Or an SUV, but changleen would have created a nasty post about me.

The class 2 hitch can hold 350lb of tongue weight, the extender reduces that by half, so I should have 175lb to play with. The rack weighs 60lbs, which leaves me with 110lb of weight to carry- or two DH bikes. That being said, I have never used an extender and don't want to deal with a rack that wobbles if it can be avoided. Having never tried this, I thought I'd ask for help.

 

[Sandwich]

So lemme try again-
If I go with the adapter/extender as GFF posted above, I will need both a hitch pin for the 2" side (which I have, with a lock) and a hitch pin for the 1.25" side. What's a decent lockable pin that will allow me to keep the rack from wobbling?

HitchMate 1.25 in. Hitch Lock 6012 - The Home Depot

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Anti-Rattle 2in Class III Hitch Pin | Silent Hitch Pin | Let's Go Aero

Our patented Silent Hitch Pin eliminates shock loads at the hitch connection and supports 2 inch hitch receivers with Class II, III & IV tow ratings.

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Just a straight up bolt?

 

[daisycutter]

2" hitches are stronger, no way I would use a 1.25" hitch when a 2" hitch is available.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

So lemme try again-
If I go with the adapter/extender as GFF posted above, I will need both a hitch pin for the 2" side (which I have, with a lock) and a hitch pin for the 1.25" side. What's a decent lockable pin that will allow me to keep the rack from wobbling?

HitchMate 1.25 in. Hitch Lock 6012 - The Home Depot

The Heininger Advantage SportsRack 1.25 in. Trailer Hitch Lock is great for securing your bike rack or trailer to the hitch. It has a 1/2 in. diameter and fits 1.25 in. x 1.25 in. trailer hitches (Class

www.homedepot.com

Anti-Rattle 2in Class III Hitch Pin | Silent Hitch Pin | Let's Go Aero

Our patented Silent Hitch Pin eliminates shock loads at the hitch connection and supports 2 inch hitch receivers with Class II, III & IV tow ratings.

letsgoaero.com

Just a straight up bolt?

No pin or bolt will stop wobble. The design is only to stop the hitch from sliding out of the receiver.

 

[HardtailHack]

No pin or bolt will stop wobble. The design is only to stop the hitch from sliding out of the receiver.

Sounds like in needs a Maxle and some Boost caps!

 

[StiHacka]

Just get an ebike and ride to the trails.

 

[6thElement]

To stop wobble you use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ25Y26/

At least that's what I use with our swing away and 1up.

 

[sunringlerider]

Not to be the broken record but I would go the 2” route. If you already have a 2” rack. I ran into the no available option for my accord so I bought the 1 1/4 hitch cut out the the small part, used the magic electric lightning and problem solved. Wasn’t concerned about the towing capability of the hitch since it will be only used for a 2 spot rack.

Any local welding shop should be able to accomplish this as well.

 

[Sandwich]

To stop wobble you use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ25Y26/

At least that's what I use with our swing away and 1up.

THANK YOU

That's pretty helpful. Looks like it's a tough fit on 1.25" hitches but if you double up the black plates then it's doable. Thankfully it looks like those are plentiful and cheap. Having two additional bolts securing the thing may be the theft deterrent I need. Do you have an adapter, or are you using the factory 1.25" rack? I am considering doing this the right way and buying the 1.25" lower arm for the Kuat, but not if it's going to be just as wobbly.

 

[canadmos]

As someone that's had a few cars with 1 1/4 hitch, I too would go the 2" route, if available.

Its not really the hitch that's the problem, its the racks that are different. I have the OG Kuat NV rack and it flexes around the tube that goes into the hitch, if that makes sense?

1 1/4 rack with the curved tube, with welded side plates..

2" version is a straight tube and much stronger

durr i'm an idiot and didn't properly read your first post, so this doesn't even apply.

 

[jonKranked]

No, and I don't need one- I just need to fit my rack to the hitch that I'll be getting. I have no idea how much I'll be driving it. 99% of the time probably 30 miles or less to local trails and roads. Maybe once or twice 5+ hours out of state.

inch and a quarter hitches are janky as shit. every time i see someone driving down the highway with one its shaking like Michael j fox. 2" receivers aren't made stock for my vehicle, i went to a custom trailer place, had them take a stock hitch, cut out the 1.25" receiver and weld in a 2" receiver. it cost me an extra hundred bucks or so but i have absolutely zero regrets. i've had it 10 years now and 0 issues.

 

[jonKranked]

magic electric lightning

saving this phrase for future use.

 

[6thElement]

THANK YOU

That's pretty helpful. Looks like it's a tough fit on 1.25" hitches but if you double up the black plates then it's doable. Thankfully it looks like those are plentiful and cheap. Having two additional bolts securing the thing may be the theft deterrent I need. Do you have an adapter, or are you using the factory 1.25" rack? I am considering doing this the right way and buying the 1.25" lower arm for the Kuat, but not if it's going to be just as wobbly.

If you're not able to go 2" hitch, I'd want the minimum number of components possible, as each introduces instability. So the replacement lower arm sounds like the better option than hitch > adapter > rack.

My setup is aftermarket curt 2" hitch on our scooby and it's a 2" on our truck. The rack doesn't wobble on the car, I use the anti wobble doohicky on the truck because we have a Yakima swingaway between truck and the 1Up.

 

[Westy]

inch and a quarter hitches are janky as shit. every time i see someone driving down the highway with one its shaking like Michael j fox. 2" receivers aren't made stock for my vehicle, i went to a custom trailer place, had them take a stock hitch, cut out the 1.25" receiver and weld in a 2" receiver. it cost me an extra hundred bucks or so but i have absolutely zero regrets. i've had it 10 years now and 0 issues.

If you use a threaded bolt interface vs the pin this isn't a problem. I think this is standard on Thule racks, not sure about other manufacturers. I was able to drill and tap a hole for my DIY rack, but hand tapping through a solid 1.25" of steel isn't that much fun.

 

[jonKranked]

If you use a threaded bolt interface vs the pin this isn't a problem. I think this is standard on Thule racks, not sure about other manufacturers. I was able to drill and tap a hole for my DIY rack, but hand tapping through a solid 1.25" of steel isn't that much fun.

yea, the thule ones are threaded, but that would only be for the interface between the rack and the adapter, not the adapter and the hitch receiver

 

[Westy]

yea, the thule ones are threaded, but that would only be for the interface between the rack and the adapter, not the adapter and the hitch receiver

Weld it to the rack

 

[jonKranked]

Weld it to the rack

gorilla tape

 

[SkaredShtles]

gorilla tape

But what about the residue?!?

 

[jonKranked]

But what about the residue?!?

all the road salt in the winter will take care of it

 

[Westy]

But what about the residue?!?

Steel glue residue is easy to remove

 

[Toshi]

Weld it to the rack

Then it’d be a permanent shin-scarring piece protruding out from under the bumper.

 

[Westy]

Then it’d be a permanent shin-scarring piece protruding out from under the bumper.

Weld adapter to rack not hitch

 

[Toshi]

ohhh

 

[Sandwich]

If you're not able to go 2" hitch, I'd want the minimum number of components possible, as each introduces instability. So the replacement lower arm sounds like the better option than hitch > adapter > rack.

My setup is aftermarket curt 2" hitch on our scooby and it's a 2" on our truck. The rack doesn't wobble on the car, I use the anti wobble doohicky on the truck because we have a Yakima swingaway between truck and the 1Up.

Thanks for the help. I may pursue buying the 1.25 lower end and just being done with it, then selling the old one. I would wager the difference in cost between the two is roughly the same as an adapter, locking pin, and whatever contraption is required to reduce wobble.

 

[Sandwich]

If you use a threaded bolt interface vs the pin this isn't a problem. I think this is standard on Thule racks, not sure about other manufacturers. I was able to drill and tap a hole for my DIY rack, but hand tapping through a solid 1.25" of steel isn't that much fun.

I wonder if I could do this with the adapter...the 1.25" portion is solid steel. I could thread a portion of it and use a doodad like thisL https://www.amazon.com/Heininger-Diameter-6033-Advantage-SportsRack/dp/B00471JQJE to tighten it against the side of the hitch. The hitch itself has a ball to reduce wobble which would take care of it on the other side.

 

[kidwoo]

No, and I don't need one

It would seem you need one.

 

[Westy]

I wonder if I could do this with the adapter...the 1.25" portion is solid steel. I could thread a portion of it and use a doodad like thisL https://www.amazon.com/Heininger-Diameter-6033-Advantage-SportsRack/dp/B00471JQJE to tighten it against the side of the hitch. The hitch itself has a ball to reduce wobble which would take care of it on the other side.

That is exactly what I did with my home made rack. Drilled and tapped a hole in the solid 1.25" part. Actually it already had a tapped hole but I slid it in farther for better aerodynamics and shin clearance. FYI Different manufactures use similar but different size threads.

 

[jonKranked]

It would seem you need one.

Andy needs an Acty

 

[Sandwich]

Man, you guys really better tell Kuat, Thule, 1up, Yakima, Rocky Mounts, et al not to sell any more 1.25" racks. They have no idea that you can't use them.

 

[Sandwich]

This reminds me, I should sell my car and buy an F250 so I can transport my two bikes to the trailhead every once in a while.

 

[Westy]

Been running a 1.25" hitch ford decades problem free. Even got rear ended by a fucking semi and pushed 100 yards down the road and the wimpy little rack saved my car from damage.