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Truck brake pads

TheMontashu

Pourly Tatteued Jeu
Mar 15, 2004
5,556
0
I'm homeless
I need new pads and roters, the stock one kind of suck, being that the truck is kind of old and there are drums in back. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with some EBC pads, my question is, are getting vented rotors really worth the money?
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,440
983
My own world inside my head
Are they going to stop better, or last longer??

What about rotors, worth getting something slotted/ drilled
They are quieter, less dust, last longer, stop very well..

Slotted and drilled....... Do you drive like a complete jackass taht slamms brakes and slides tires for every corner? If yes, go for it, if not... well get them anayways cause itll be funny next time you do you brakes and find out how much more they cost to machine!!!

Seriously, unless your in a hi performance application were you are really heavy on the brakes, drive mountain roads all day long, or tow an excessive amount of weight all the time, drilled and slotted end up just looking cool, and are not needed.
 

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,548
493
Im over here now
i have Hawk carbon pads with ProStop drilled rotors on my truck and love them, but my application is a bit different then your beauty.

the Hawk pads are great because they are low on dust and are pretty grabby.
 

TheMontashu

Pourly Tatteued Jeu
Mar 15, 2004
5,556
0
I'm homeless
They are quieter, less dust, last longer, stop very well..

Slotted and drilled....... Do you drive like a complete jackass taht slamms brakes and slides tires for every corner? If yes, go for it, if not... well get them anayways cause itll be funny next time you do you brakes and find out how much more they cost to machine!!!

Seriously, unless your in a hi performance application were you are really heavy on the brakes, drive mountain roads all day long, or tow an excessive amount of weight all the time, drilled and slotted end up just looking cool, and are not needed.
And they are a little less money. I don't drive like a jackass, I'm ganna be in a 9,000lb truck. I just want my junk to stop on my 10-15 trips to downieville every year. It's not daily mountain roads, but it's once a month at least.
 

BadDNA

hophead
Mar 31, 2006
4,217
191
Winning.
You want to upgrade your rear brakes, change out the rear brake cylinders on your Dodge for pieces for a GM 1-ton from NAPA.

NAPA 4637337 is the part#. GM 1 ton wheel cylinders. Big improvement over OEM. No mods required, they use the same holes, bolts, and brakeline fitting.
Just change the cylinders, leave the proportioning valve alone.


Edit: I'll also add that you don't need to go slotted/drilled. I kept the stock brakes on my Cummins Dodge with the change to the wheel cylinders above and NEVER had problems stopping with any load/trailer combo.
 
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TheMontashu

Pourly Tatteued Jeu
Mar 15, 2004
5,556
0
I'm homeless
Who's hoping for an installation error?
To install pads and rotors......

I'm doing an engine and transmission swap. I'm past the point of major fail potential, the 4K governor spring is already in my engine, as well as the 60lb valve springs, if anything was going to happen I was ganna drop the valve into my cylinder, or drop something into my injection pump while I had that open.
 

-BB-

I broke all the rules, but somehow still became mo
Sep 6, 2001
4,256
28
Livin it up in the O.C.
Well for what it is worth I LOVE my new rotors/pads.

I have a 2004 Tundra and the brakes were a little under-sized (and cheap) so every 7k miles or so the rotors would warp. After getting them "turned" for the billionth time I decided to upgrade to some "cryo-slot" rotors with ceramic pads and I've never had to mess with them since (I'm at least 40k miles into them).


http://www.frozenrotors.com/products/power-slot-cryo/
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,440
983
My own world inside my head
Well for what it is worth I LOVE my new rotors/pads.

I have a 2004 Tundra and the brakes were a little under-sized (and cheap) so every 7k miles or so the rotors would warp. After getting them "turned" for the billionth time I decided to upgrade to some "cryo-slot" rotors with ceramic pads and I've never had to mess with them since (I'm at least 40k miles into them).


http://www.frozenrotors.com/products/power-slot-cryo/
Yeap, there is more than a few TSB's on those trucks, highly recomended to go with slotted and drilled on the tundras and tacoma 4x4 and prerunners. Rotors just cant dissapate heat at all. Warp every time they get hot.


There is a Brembo upgrade you would like even better, totally different setup on the caliper and rotor, much thicker rotor, wider caliper, different stand for the caliper..... Uses a stock pad shape and thickness....... Phenominal upgrade
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,440
983
My own world inside my head
To install pads and rotors......

I'm doing an engine and transmission swap. I'm past the point of major fail potential, the 4K governor spring is already in my engine, as well as the 60lb valve springs, if anything was going to happen I was ganna drop the valve into my cylinder, or drop something into my injection pump while I had that open.
Yeah. better words are not spoken with automotive work. When you say your past something going wrong, your pretty much guaranting itll go wrong. Its my techs that say they dont make mistakes anymore, or they know this job inside and out that always end up forgetting to tighten one bolt that effs the entire job up.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
17,171
1,616
01776
I just threw boxster monoblocs on my S6 and the difference from the old girlings are night and day...this is all with standard steel rotors. I suggest you use quality pads (I have pagids in the rear and textar OEMs on the front) but stick with steel rotors unless you're tracking it or have serious fade issues. I suppose if you can get them for the same price, I'd take a slotted or dimple slot EBC rotor, but that's not likely. Skip the drilled rotors outside of track use.

As for Centric components, throw them in the trash. I bought hoses and rotors from them, the rotors are already rusty and the hoses don't fit my vehicle. I tried to order some loaded calipers that showed as being in stock but they weren't. I tried to order Porsche calipers and they mysteriously went out of stock. I'll never buy centric components again, it's not worth the wasted time or effort.
 

mrgto

Monkey
Aug 4, 2009
295
118
Performance Friction Z pads on my F250 are the greatest. Just make sure you bed in any brakes you end up getting.
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,440
983
My own world inside my head
I just threw boxster monoblocs on my S6 and the difference from the old girlings are night and day...this is all with standard steel rotors. I suggest you use quality pads (I have pagids in the rear and textar OEMs on the front) but stick with steel rotors unless you're tracking it or have serious fade issues. I suppose if you can get them for the same price, I'd take a slotted or dimple slot EBC rotor, but that's not likely. Skip the drilled rotors outside of track use.

As for Centric components, throw them in the trash. I bought hoses and rotors from them, the rotors are already rusty and the hoses don't fit my vehicle. I tried to order some loaded calipers that showed as being in stock but they weren't. I tried to order Porsche calipers and they mysteriously went out of stock. I'll never buy centric components again, it's not worth the wasted time or effort.


Well teh rusted rotor is the difference between an actuall steel rotor, or just a cheap cast iron rotor<which most youll buy are>. The hoses not fitting... well without seeing it, who knows why..... Its entirely possible that the yahoo looked it up wrong, typed wrong year, wrong model, wrong model specific ETC ETC...... The pads are phenominal, seriously they kick ass, and they are not cheap.

Bottom line, hi quality steel isnt cheap, specially for rotors but dont swear off a great product from one bad instance that seems more likely its a human error in between.
 

Mr Jones

Turbo Monkey
Nov 12, 2007
1,483
0
I have the centric ceramic pads on my 4 Runner, as well as centric premium rotors (black box)... white box (economy) centric rotors suck stanky toe jam (buy right or buy twice). Put them side by side and you'll see the difference in thickness of the braking surface. 50% left on the pads and they're running quiet and strong.

Used to run the bendix thermaquiets with the stock rotors but I would get howling during extended mountain descents and fast warpage.
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,440
983
My own world inside my head
I have the centric ceramic pads on my 4 Runner, as well as centric premium rotors (black box)... white box (economy) centric rotors suck stanky toe jam (buy right or buy twice). Put them side by side and you'll see the difference in thickness of the braking surface. 50% left on the pads and they're running quiet and strong.

Used to run the bendix thermaquiets with the stock rotors but I would get howling during extended mountain descents and fast warpage.
Thermoqueits are a wagner product BTW.... We cleared our shelves of those. WHen they first came out they were great. But more and more they have had major QC issues. No longer worth even putting them on a car with all the damn noise they make.