Yeah, assuming it's small. Any press fit system's going to do that to some degree. If the crank arm bottoms on the BB it's not working right.
Truvativ Descendant
- Thread starter karpi
- Start date
how on earth do you up the bar from a super strong pretty much indestructible crank that happens to be one of the lightest on the market, has a great and easy to install/uninstall interface, cheap and really well built BB's? As far as I can tell, the only reason to get a different crank then the saints is $ or weight. If you're looking for weight, get a set of flexy fliers that bend if you look at them sideways, otherwise saints.
Not saying the truvativ descendants are bad, just there isn't much to improve on the saints other then weight. interface is perfect, bb's are great, and they're super super strong and stiff.
Not saying the truvativ descendants are bad, just there isn't much to improve on the saints other then weight. interface is perfect, bb's are great, and they're super super strong and stiff.
juanbeegas,
I've seen plenty of high end road cranks do the same thing. Like HAB said, if it bottomed out against the BB it would be causing excess friction and would most likely wear out the bearings prematurely. I have the E.13 crankset on my DH bike and they use a combination of a wave washer and .5mm spacers to take up the gap which will vary from frame to frame based on tolerances and setup. I've noticed a lot of the high end road cranksets also using the wave washer technique.
Check out the install instructions for the E.13 crankset, steps 7a,7b and 8 might be applicable to the descendant.
http://www.e13components.com/setup_instructions/e13_crank_manual_web.pdf
or video if you don't like to read
http://bythehive.com/crank-install-video/
I've seen plenty of high end road cranks do the same thing. Like HAB said, if it bottomed out against the BB it would be causing excess friction and would most likely wear out the bearings prematurely. I have the E.13 crankset on my DH bike and they use a combination of a wave washer and .5mm spacers to take up the gap which will vary from frame to frame based on tolerances and setup. I've noticed a lot of the high end road cranksets also using the wave washer technique.
Check out the install instructions for the E.13 crankset, steps 7a,7b and 8 might be applicable to the descendant.
http://www.e13components.com/setup_instructions/e13_crank_manual_web.pdf
or video if you don't like to read
http://bythehive.com/crank-install-video/
Thanks, Matt. I took a look at the cranks again and I'm guessing that the space that's there, is where the granny ring should usually sit.
I have taken off and installed mine a few times now switching chainguides. Rather easy removal and re-fitment. There is a wavy washer and several plastic spacers on the drive side for tolerances. I am coming off of using RF Atlas FR cranks which have been great cranks just shoulder busters getting on and off... so these are a nice change. So far not much else to say.
Did you have any problems with the press-fit interface wearing out/becoming looser after multiple removals and installs?
Cost. MSRP is $180 on descendants.
Seems good to go.
Fras, just to clarify, what does that include?
way too much time on my hands today:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=38145
Looks like a 36T chain-ring/bb/arms.
Oh looks like it was reprices to around $200 give or take for BB type. Either way, it includes everything. BB/Crank/Chainring.
I have been running them for about 3 months now and have 2 sets. Great cranks. The only downside is the finish sucks and you will take off the anodizing and graphics in 1 muddy ride.
I have been running them for about 3 months now and have 2 sets. Great cranks. The only downside is the finish sucks and you will take off the anodizing and graphics in 1 muddy ride.
Have you ever seen a crank that gave lengths based on the pedal hole distance from the center?
Do they have a 83mm version that comes with granny tabs?
I don't think any of the descendants come with granny tabs, but I could be wrong.
almost all forged cranks have the same length blank. They just move the hole to "size" them. YD35's question is valid.
for around the same price, the Saints can be had from CRC
Truvativ cranks all have unused space on the drive side. The chainline is dictated by the LEFT cup, the spindle sandwiches the left bearing. Moving the left cup will move your chainring location.
In order to work with press fit BB's they have to use wavy washers on that drive side gap or else the left (pressed in) cup could be pushed out of it's bore from wicked scrub whips.
These are great budget cranks that are light and (should be) strong. I wouldn't put them on par with Saint's hollow arms and pinch bolt mounting.
Saint spam
http://www.go-ride.com/SPD/shimano-saint-815-1-crankset-w-ring--80003B26-1295990259.jsp
Still more than Descendants though. Don't shoot me- i advertise here...
I always assumed that crank lengths represented the length of the crank arm. It never even occurred to me that it could represent the placement of the pedal hole. Very interesting!
Sorry to reignite an old, old thread, but I have an issue. I am buying a 'second hand' pair of these and both sellers that i have talked with don't know the bb width? The box doesn't appear to have it on there either.
Surely someone in Ridemonkey land has some way of knowing which width the bb of the crank is? Is it written on the BB? Any suggestions or help would be great!
Thanks.
Surely someone in Ridemonkey land has some way of knowing which width the bb of the crank is? Is it written on the BB? Any suggestions or help would be great!
Thanks.
It's dependent on the bottom bracket you use. If you have the bottom bracket, it'll have a stamp on it saying 83mm or 73mm, etc. If it's only the crank arms, you're good to go and just buy the correct bottom bracket size.
Wrong. The spindle length is different for 73/83, and since the spindle's build into one of the crank arms they're different too.
Just measure the spindle length...
Thanks HAB. I thought that the spindle lengths would differ. 1soulrider, you say to measure the spindle, but what I need to know is how long is the spindle on the 83mm BB version of the crank? Anyone ?
No problems no noticeable flex. I'm totally happy with them with about a season on them. Light, strong, and cheap. It's rare you get all 3.
I've had no issues with mine with about a half year of use on my demo.
Recently installed a set of 175mm Descendants w/ 73mm shell. I'm having trouble with play in the crankset. I can pull everything, clean, grease and re-attach. It eliminates the play - but it comes back after a couple rides. The BB is a 68/73 and the shell is 73mm so the cups go in without any spacers. I think the problem is on the DS. Cup goes in, then the sleeve washer thing which sits in the cup, then the spindle - thats it. After everything is tightened down a small gap exists between the sleeve washer and the crank. After a few rides the sleeve washer works itself out to the crank, leaving a gap between the bearings and the sleeve washer. I think this is where the play is coming from and a buddy says I'm missing a wave washer between the sleeve and crank. I don't think my cranks came with a wave washer. I am contemplating putting one or two 1mm washers between the sleeve and crank to keep the sleeve in place.
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
check the instructions on SRAM.com to see if you are missing that washer.
I have the cranks. It's been a while, but I do think there is a wavy washer. Best check
I have the cranks. It's been a while, but I do think there is a wavy washer. Best check
Yea I've been looking for a diagram and have struck out so far. From what I've been reading some people say the washer is needed while others say it's not. The crankset didn't include one - neither did the BB.
The issue is definitely that plastic sleeve washer (part of the BB on the drive side) working its way out to the end of the spindle.
The issue is definitely that plastic sleeve washer (part of the BB on the drive side) working its way out to the end of the spindle.
You have to use one bb cup spacer on the drive side unless you are using a bb mounted chainguide or der.