[dwnwrd]

I got a Bullit frame and a Z.1 fork. Ain't they sexy?
I've never built my own bike and I'm probably not going to "build" this one so much as buy the parts individually and assemble what I can and have a shop do the rest.

I already ordered brakes and pedals and I'm looking for a stem and bars now and not sure what to get. Are all the stems pretty much the same thickness? (take up the same space on the steerer tube) I may just get the cheapest semi short stem (75mm 10deg?) I can find for now and replace it if the length doesn't seem right. But I don't want to get a thin stem which will require the steerer tube to be cut down and then find a taller stem that is too big for the tube.

I'm probably going to be replacing those cranks with at least 2 rings. And getting a 9 spd cassette. I'm not trying to build a DH bike, but a bike that can DH and more.

 

[sub6]

I'd hedge my bets by putting a few spacers under the stem, and a few on top of the stem, and cutting the steerer to that length. That way you have some room to play with, and if sometime down the road, you decide to sell the fork, it'll be worth more with a longer steerer.

Check out the Giant pic in my sig - you'll see what I mean. It's kinda ugly but it preserves my options for adjustability of the stem I have, or getting a taller stem.

You can always take more off later, that's what I tell myself...

 

[TimeBomb]

Check out the RaceFace Diabolus stem at www.PricePoint.com They have a 50mm or 70mm - 10 degree for $70.00.

 

[dwnwrd]

So if I get some 185mm Avid discs do I need an adapter to move the caliper farther from the axle?

Can you tell I've never messed with disc brakes?

I'm assuming the larger rotor will push the caliper father out, but I don't know how much adjustment can be made without some kind of spacer between the frame and the caliper.

 

[SpasticJack]

Well...for one thing, I'd put the cranks on on the correct side of the frame for starters.

8-8.5" is usually a good length to cut your steerer and then get spacers to take up the rest. For resale purposes that would leave enough length to install on just about anything.

If you ordered Avids with 185mm rotors, they should come with the correct adapter. Hopefully the swingarm will accomodate the larger rotor (some frames just won't take one)

The Race Face stem sounds like a good deal, that or a Thomson should treat you pretty well.

 

[oldfart]

Originally posted by SpasticJack
Well...for one thing, I'd put the cranks on on the correct side of the frame for starters.

Yeah. You'd have a really wicked case of cross chainning the way you've got it. rotflmao

 

[dwnwrd]

Well...for one thing, I'd put the cranks on on the correct side of the frame for starters.

Really? I thought they would fit on either side? Just turn the wheel around, right?

Acutally I just laid it down to take a picture and just set the crank on. I don't even have the damn bolts to attach them with. grumble

 

[amateur]

the bb or cranks should come with bolts of some sort.

stems dont need to be expensive if they're short. i got a 40mm 10deg. weyless(supergo inhouse brand) and it works fine.

and yes, you need adapters to switch the mounts from IS to 74mm postmount. adapters should come with the brakes, just bolt them to the inside of the frame/fork(closest to the wheel) and if you don't remove the paint from the contact surface of the adapter/fork or frame, then jsut check the tightness of those bolts every so often and make sure they're tight.

 

[stringcheese]

Yeah go with a weyless stem. The one that's the copy of an azonic shorty. They're pretty tall.

 

[dwnwrd]

Here she is. I'm still waiting for my silver Thompson Elite post to come in, so pretend that suspension post isn't there.

 

[dwnwrd]

why not

 

[partsbara]

not bad chief but i d pitch them tires .. plus, put a couple of spacers on top of the stem, rather than all underneath.. yeah i t looks kinda dicky but it ll make the ride betta..

have fun

partsbara

 

[Nd4spd]

Dwnwrd nice job on the build there.I just did my first myself this fall on my hardtail using parts of a pretty beetup frame.I was unsure about my ability to do it and was surprised at how easy it actually was and what i learned.The guys at the LBS did the cables for me but it was a "big" learning experiance.
Hey Partsbarba is the spacers top and bottom so that it will be more sturdy on the bars instead of the bars being so high/tall?

 

[dwnwrd]

Yea I used to think if I ever had to change the derailers on a bike it would never work again, but it was actually really easy.

I did everything but the fork. I had the steerer tube left long so I could resell it if I wanted. I've rearranged the spacers and may prune it down some later.

I'm very happy with it except I think I now see what is so good about fat tires. On my first DH ride it seemed like I was skidding a lot more than everyone else when trying to stop.

That's OK, I'll probably get fatties later, but I want to do some XC too anyway.

I would like to try dampen the chain and derailer flapping in the rough stuff. Not sure what to do about that on a triple chain ring setup.

 

[Jesse B]

Nice! I have a Bullit with Z1 also, I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine!

 

[partsbara]

Originally posted by Nd4spd
Dwnwrd nice job on the build there.I just did my first myself this fall on my hardtail using parts of a pretty beetup frame.I was unsure about my ability to do it and was surprised at how easy it actually was and what i learned.The guys at the LBS did the cables for me but it was a "big" learning experiance.
Hey Partsbarba is the spacers top and bottom so that it will be more sturdy on the bars instead of the bars being so high/tall?

its more for ride... with all the spacers underneath it makes the ride position too upright... rather than cut the steerer right down it s a good idea to put a spacer or two on top of the stem... that way if/when the fork goes onto a diff bike with a longer head tube you ll have enough steerer to mount the fork..

partsbara