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Using a Threadless head set/stem with a threaded Fork ?

indieboy

Want fries with that?
Jan 4, 2002
1,806
1
atlanta
you can't clamp the stem on the threads. if you have enough steerer where you can cut away the threads then you would be good to go.
 

indieboy

Want fries with that?
Jan 4, 2002
1,806
1
atlanta
Originally posted by splat
I don't and why not ?
the stem won't clamp it literally. looks like you are gonna have to go and dig up another fork for your bike if you want to run threadless.....if its for a road bike like i suspect make sure you find a fork w/ the correct rake or the handling of the bike will change.
 

SwisSlesS

Monkey
Jan 31, 2003
385
0
Originally posted by indieboy
you can't clamp the stem on the threads. if you have enough steerer where you can cut away the threads then you would be good to go.
One of the mechanics I work with did this on his own bike and hasn't had any problems. That said, I definitely wouldn't reccomend it, and would try almost anything to get a proper fork. But if worst comes to worst, you could probably get away with it.
 

sub6

Monkey
Oct 17, 2001
508
0
williamsburg, va
a fairly knowledgeable guy in a bike shop once told me that you couldn't do it; that threaded steerers weren't designed to take the stress of a stem clamping over it. Something about the thickness of the wall.

That's bullshi t, though - what difference does it make if the stem clamps from the inside pushing out, or the outside pushing in?

It won't work if you clamp on the threads, because there is virtually no surface area there, hence no friction, hence it would be ridiculously easy to twist the stem from side to side. Probably every time your front wheel glanced off something, your bars would end up sideways...
 

Eng-Rider

Chimp
Mar 23, 2002
5
0
Idaho Falls, ID
Don't forget about the effect of the threads on stress in the steer tube. If the bottom of the stem is on the threaded region then the first thread below the stem will be highly stressed when you hit bumps or otherwise put a bending moment on the steerer. Your stem acts like a cantilever beam and puts bending stress on the steerer any time you put weight on the stem. The thread creates a stress riser the could result in a crack and fatigue the steer tube causing it to fail. You won't get the stress riser if the tube is unnotched in that area. In any case, if you have a loaded thread then you are way outside the design box for the steer tube and could fail the tube while riding. If this is a road bike, maybe I'd risk it, but never with a mountain bike.
 

Echo

crooked smile
Jul 10, 2002
11,819
15
Slacking at work
Not to mention it would ruin the stem, and also, as soon as the threads dig into the stem, you will never get that sucker off again.
 

splat

Nam I am
Originally posted by Echo
Not to mention it would ruin the stem, and also, as soon as the threads dig into the stem, you will never get that sucker off again.
Actually if that were to happen that would mean it would work, then when you want it off , just thread it off.

Also This is not going to be going in the Woods ( well it might occostioanlly see a fire road, it is mainly going to be for a Commuter.


here it is shortly after I base coated the
 

sub6

Monkey
Oct 17, 2001
508
0
williamsburg, va
:eek: a Softride MTB?

I thought those were well-known as human catapults? Cool piece of history though, no doubt....

Why don't you use a threaded headset with one of those jobbies that has a quill on it to drop into the steerer like a threaded stem, but has a solid portion on it to clamp a threadless stem onto it? Performance or Nashbar would have that, it's a threaded-to-threadless stem converter....
 

ohio

The Fresno Kid
Nov 26, 2001
6,649
26
SF, CA
Originally posted by splat
Actually if that were to happen that would mean it would work, then when you want it off , just thread it off.
It will definitely be worth the $25 or whatever it costs to find an old threadless judy, mach5, or z2, or even rigid... rather than go with a sketchy threaded setup just to use an old Quadra 5 that doesn't really absorb anything anyway...
 

Matt D

Monkey
Mar 19, 2002
996
0
charlottesville, va
Originally posted by ohio
It will definitely be worth the $25 or whatever it costs to find an old threadless judy, mach5, or z2, or even rigid... rather than go with a sketchy threaded setup just to use an old Quadra 5 that doesn't really absorb anything anyway...
Guaranteed that Quadra is locked out, forever. I haven't seen one move in the past few years. but it looks cool and people will think you're a "mountain biker" ;)
 

splat

Nam I am
Well to answear a few questions, 1'st I have a threaed headset, But the Threads are damaged already at the top , and 2nd the threads don't go far enough down bout 1/2 in short.

the Mag 5 will be fine this is mainly going to be for winter commuter use , want suspention due to pot holes not being seen in dark. and I have the origianl fork which is rigid and threaded.

and fianlly , it has just been a fun resturation project.

and Yes it is a Pogo Stick! and Used in the woods would be a Human Catapault. But on the road they are great!
 

sub6

Monkey
Oct 17, 2001
508
0
williamsburg, va
To further bust your balls:

You could probably get another 1 1/8" threaded HS for around $10.

Any competent bike shop should be able to thread another 1/2" onto that steerer, I should think.

That would be preferable to clamping onto a threaded portion of the steerer.
 

Echo

crooked smile
Jul 10, 2002
11,819
15
Slacking at work
I don't think you would be able to thread your stem off. Since the metals are different, I believe the term is "galling" which would be when the little pieces of steel and aluminum start to "alloy" and roll into little balls, which will dig trenches and get bigger when you try to twist your stem back and forth to get it off. Maybe someone who knows metallurgy can explain it better...