[ChrisRobin]

Do any of you guys use pipe cutters instead of hacksaws when it comes to cutting down handlbars, seatposts and steerer tubes? I'm talking aluminum, not steel.

If so, I'm assuming the standard pipe cutters for plumbing won't do since copper tubing is softer compared to aluminum.

 

[ChrisRobin]

I just did a search and people are using them...just what kind or will the regular plumbing ones do the job.

 

[Westy]

I use a pipe cutter just because it is more accurate, I put the hack into a hacksaw. But like you said the Al is much harder so the pipe cutter blades will wear out very fast and you have to put them under quite a bit of load. I bought a cheapo just for bike stuff. I wouldn't use one that might then be needed for real plumbing work.

 

[ChrisRobin]

I use a pipe cutter just because it is more accurate, I put the hack into a hacksaw. But like you said the Al is much harder so the pipe cutter blades will wear out very fast and you have to put them under quite a bit of load. I bought a cheapo just for bike stuff. I wouldn't use one that might then be needed for real plumbing work.

Cool, thanks! I'll go check it out. It's not like I'll be cutting every day. As long as a regular pipe cutter works.

 

[sanjuro]

Pipe cutters work great with handlebars and seatposts. I usually go for the hacksaw for the steerer tube. A steel steerer will eat the pipe cutter wheel, and I have had some problem with even alu steerers.

And I just use the basic pipe cutter from the local h/ware store.

 

[Westy]

Cool, thanks! I'll go check it out. It's not like I'll be cutting every day. As long as a regular pipe cutter works.

FYI I have only used them on XC type handlebars and steerers from Fox forks. If it works with a steerer I'm sure it will work with any handlebar but I'm not so sure about forks like a Z150 that might have much thicker steerers.

 

[binary visions]

I think it's funny that you can use a pipe cutter well, but "put the hack into a hacksaw".

I only use hacksaws to cut handlebars/steerers/seatposts because I'm such a hack (read: too impatient) with the pipe cutter that I always end up deforming the item I'm trying to cut

 

[Westy]

Any activity that inclued swinging a hammer, club, ax etc or the energetic removal of material triggers some primeval response that puts me in an uncontrolable fury. Using a pipe cutter is a nice calming activity that leaves me pondering the fatigue life and toughness of materials.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

The only negative about a pipe cutter is the metal tends to flair out after it's cut which can restrict a headset etc from slipping on easily. Take small turns with the cutter and it wont flair so bad.

 

[sanjuro]

I always use a file after cutting. Home mechanics might skip this step, but I figure I better have it perfect in the shop.

This should prevent the "flairing" Brian talks about.

 

[ChrisRobin]

ok, so tighten and turn the pipe cutter in small increments to prevent too much flaring. I'll give it a try.

 

[sanjuro]

Actually, I file to prevent sharp edges. Not that I think most people will run the tongues inside the steerer tube, but that was the way I was taught...

 

[punkassean]

that flaring is called "swedging". That's why I use a hacksaw and a cutting guide because I only use King headsets and even if you swedge the steertube the tiniest bit it will be next to impossible to get the top dust-cap o-ring over the tube.

 

[RD]

A pipe cutter for any sort of precision and/or high strength fit is asking for trouble. Anything that can interfere with a concentric clamp like that isn't going to be good, and it will also potentially cause your stem to bind on the steerer and not allow you to get proper headset bearing preload. I'd stay away. The guide and saw work very well.

 

[JRogers]

Meh, whatever. I've used hacksaws and pipe cutters/files to cut steerers. Both work fine. It's just a frickin metal tube.

 

[RD]

Meh, whatever. I've used hacksaws and pipe cutters/files to cut steerers. Both work fine. It's just a frickin metal tube.

Apparently you have never worked in a machine shop.

 

[JRB]

Apparently you have never worked in a machine shop.

You will likely find most people haven't worked in a machine shop.

 

[punkassean]

machine shop or no, saying it's "just a metal tube" is a gross understatement. This is simple really, use a nice sharp hacksaw blade and a cutting guide for the best results. Use anything else (including a pipe cutter) for less than optimal results.

 

[chicodude]

I used a pipe cutter on a Z-150 steer tube, and it worked fine.


It did flair the edges a little bit, but I took a file and filed it down

 

[BMXman]

The only negative about a pipe cutter is the metal tends to flair out after it's cut which can restrict a headset etc from slipping on easily. Take small turns with the cutter and it wont flair so bad.

that's exactly why I only usea hacksaw...plus it's much faster...D

 

[mattv2099]

Do any of you guys use pipe cutters instead of hacksaws when it comes to cutting down handlbars, seatposts and steerer tubes? I'm talking aluminum, not steel.

If so, I'm assuming the standard pipe cutters for plumbing won't do since copper tubing is softer compared to aluminum.

Pipe cutter is the way you are supposed to do it. Why the hell would someone use a hack saw?

 

[binary visions]

Pipe cutter is the way you are supposed to do it. Why the hell would someone use a hack saw?

Did you not read the rest of this thread, or what?

 

[motomaster677]

anything that will create problems with the fit of things you a hacksaw (and a file to remove burs).

if your cutting down your bars shorter, or cutting you seat post shorter, a pipe cutter will work,

i personally try to stay away from cutting steerers because the issue of selling it, plus you can add some carbon fiber bling if you leave it alittle long.

just never you any kind of power saw because the heat generated will weaken the metal.

PS: dont forget the cutting oil, i recomend marvel myster oil, which you can buy at most hardware stores

 

[HenryTheHammer]

Lathe and cutoff tool work the absolute best. Bus since not everybody has access to such equipment, a hacksaw and guide is the next most desirable. Pipe cutters work ok, just alot of extra work involved, especially in the softer alloys.

 

[motomaster677]

Lathe and cutoff tool work the absolute best. Bus since not everybody has access to such equipment, a hacksaw and guide is the next most desirable. Pipe cutters work ok, just alot of extra work involved, especially in the softer alloys.

i disagree

 

[sanjuro]

i disagree

Great comeback.

i personally try to stay away from cutting steerers because the issue of selling it, plus you can add some carbon fiber bling if you leave it alittle long.

I guess you don't sell many forks.

 

[JRogers]

Apparently you have never worked in a machine shop.

I've cut quite a few forks with pipe cutters. What could go wrong? The edge is just as level as it would be with a saw. And if it's not....adjust the headset one or two more times....big deal. What, you think your steerer is going to snap in half because you used a pipe cutter? I mean, seriously, have you ever seen something fail or not work properly because a pipe cutter was used?

 

[punkassean]

I can't believe how many opinions are being confused as facts in this thread. Here is my message to the people.

Use whatever you see fit to cut a steer tube. It is no skin of my back if you use a dozen bulk boxes of toothpicks from Costco and it takes you eleven years. With that said, If you care about precision (and there is undoubtedly something to be said about those who do) you will use a hacksaw and a cutting guide as well as a file to chamfer the outer edge (and a deburring tool on the inside if you are really anal like me). This is especially true if you use a King or similar headset (is there really anything similar to a King though?).

Pipe cutters are made to cut pipe not TUBE. yes there is a difference, pipe is simply conduit (for liquid, gas, wiring etc), tube is a structural member (think: rollcage or bicycle frame). Hence pipe is usually made from MUCH softer (and weaker) materials than tube. Pipe cutters are made to cut copper and other soft metals, NOT treated aluminum alloys or hardened steel. When the outside diameter of the piece is crucial to the proper performance of the related components as with a bicycle headset, a pipe cutter should not be used. If you are a hack and use cheap parts and practices then pipe-cut away but at least know that it's not really the correct way of doing things. If you must use a pipe cutter go VERY slow otherwise the tube will flare much more and you will also dull the cutting edge quickly.

 

[sanjuro]

I can't believe how many opinions are being confused as facts in this thread. Here is my message to the people.

Use whatever you see fit to cut a steer tube. It is no skin of my back if you use a dozen bulk boxes of toothpicks from Costco and it takes you eleven years. With that said, If you care about precision (and there is undoubtedly something to be said about those who do) you will use a hacksaw and a cutting guide as well as a file to chamfer the outer edge (and a deburring tool on the inside if you are really anal like me). This is especially true if you use a King or similar headset (is there really anything similar to a King though?).

Pipe cutters are made to cut pipe not TUBE. yes there is a difference, pipe is simply conduit (for liquid, gas, wiring etc), tube is a structural member (think: rollcage or bicycle frame). Hence pipe is usually made from MUCH softer (and weaker) materials than tube. Pipe cutters are made to cut copper and other soft metals, NOT treated aluminum alloys or hardened steel. When the outside diameter of the piece is crucial to the proper performance of the related components as with a bicycle headset, a pipe cutter should not be used. If you are a hack and use cheap parts and practices then pipe-cut away but at least know that it's not really the correct way of doing things. If you must use a pipe cutter go VERY slow otherwise the tube will flare much more and you will also dull the cutting edge quickly.

BTW, thanks for the info on the Noga deburring tool. My old shop used to call it the Jewish Dremel because of its Israeli origin.

 

[scrublover]

1 part old beat down stem as lower cutting guide.
1 large file
1 nice hacksaw with blade in good shape

measure with fork in the frame, all the headset parts, stem, spacers on. then add another cm or two at least for later adjustment; i can always cut the excess of again later. mark the tube. cut away! take the stem off, file inside and out, and on top to make things nice and smooth. clean out all the filings. i normally leave a little bit extra, just in the event i go to a taller stack height stem.

been doing it this way for years, no problems. i've not done the pipe cutter thing. i'm sure the people using pipe cutters properly have had good luck too. use what works for ya, and as long as you're not screwing up the tube.........

 

[JRogers]

I can't believe how many opinions are being confused as facts in this thread. Here is my message to the people.

Use whatever you see fit to cut a steer tube. It is no skin of my back if you use a dozen bulk boxes of toothpicks from Costco and it takes you eleven years. With that said, If you care about precision (and there is undoubtedly something to be said about those who do) you will use a hacksaw and a cutting guide as well as a file to chamfer the outer edge (and a deburring tool on the inside if you are really anal like me). This is especially true if you use a King or similar headset (is there really anything similar to a King though?).

Pipe cutters are made to cut pipe not TUBE. yes there is a difference, pipe is simply conduit (for liquid, gas, wiring etc), tube is a structural member (think: rollcage or bicycle frame). Hence pipe is usually made from MUCH softer (and weaker) materials than tube. Pipe cutters are made to cut copper and other soft metals, NOT treated aluminum alloys or hardened steel. When the outside diameter of the piece is crucial to the proper performance of the related components as with a bicycle headset, a pipe cutter should not be used. If you are a hack and use cheap parts and practices then pipe-cut away but at least know that it's not really the correct way of doing things. If you must use a pipe cutter go VERY slow otherwise the tube will flare much more and you will also dull the cutting edge quickly.

I still can't find anything here that says something besides "A hacksaw is better because that's the right way to do it" and that the blade on the saw will last longer. I stop caring about precision when it makes no difference while riding the bike. I've used saws and cutters...no dif....who cares...

 

[RD]

I still can't find anything here that says something besides "A hacksaw is better because that's the right way to do it" and that the blade on the saw will last longer. I stop caring about precision when it makes no difference while riding the bike. I've used saws and cutters...no dif....who cares...

As I posted before, anything (i.e. flared tubing caused by use of a pipe cutter) that interferes with fit of a stem and steerer tube can potentially cause a stem stem to bind on a steerer tube and not allow proper headset bearing preload. Not having proper preload can cause uneven loading of headset bearings and consequently destroy your headset, ovalize your headtube, cause press fit steerer/crown issues and/or bending problems for your steerer tube. Just a couple of scenarios.

 

[sanjuro]

Please close this thread!

 

[punkassean]

This Thread Must Die!!!!

 

[Fury]

I just mount the fork in the frame, install the stem with correct spacers, then hammer the **** outta the excess steerer until it bends over, firmly securing everything in place.

 

[BSEVEER]

I just mount the fork in the frame, install the stem with correct spacers, then hammer the **** outta the excess steerer until it bends over, firmly securing everything in place.

Lol, I'm gonna have to try that method.

 

[sanjuro]

I just mount the fork in the frame, install the stem with correct spacers, then hammer the **** outta the excess steerer until it bends over, firmly securing everything in place.

And when the professional mechanic cuts the stem off with a Saws-All, and uses a large metal hammer to force the fork out the bent head tube, please start a new thread, this time how not to cut a steerer tube.

Or someone end this thread!!!!

 

[arboc!]

I just mount the fork in the frame, install the stem with correct spacers, then hammer the **** outta the excess steerer until it bends over, firmly securing everything in place.

wow i hope your joking, because thats extremely dumb

 

[MtnbikeMike]

wow i hope your joking, because thats extremely dumb

I think he is....

 

[binary visions]

wow i hope your joking, because thats extremely dumb

wow i hope your [SIC] joking, because thinking he might be serious is extremely dumb.