VAG Owners
- Thread starter canadmos
- Start date
For me https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/18244/reverse-camera-opening-black-screen
Thanks tips, I'll drive it into the nearest pond now
Unlocked the car this morning and noticed that the tailgate decided to magically unlock as well.
I was able to hold down the hatch lock button and open it a few times, but then it kept unlocking itself everytime I got in the car (thx keyless entry).
I ended up taking all the trim off the inside of the door and all the wires, at first glance, look fine. Nothing frayed, kinked or unplugged.
So for now I've just unplugged the main power connector going to the handle mechanism, so that it hopefully doesn't become self aware and start unlocking itself at will.
Side note, the number of wires going to the assembly is confusing at first. Looks like the camera and the handle/motor are on two different circuits and then there is a super delicate looking coax type cable, assuming for the camera itself. The assembly itself has a small wire loom going from one side to another, also.
Also found that the drain tube for the handle has disintegrated at the bottom, but the tube itself isn't clogged.
I was able to hold down the hatch lock button and open it a few times, but then it kept unlocking itself everytime I got in the car (thx keyless entry).
I ended up taking all the trim off the inside of the door and all the wires, at first glance, look fine. Nothing frayed, kinked or unplugged.
So for now I've just unplugged the main power connector going to the handle mechanism, so that it hopefully doesn't become self aware and start unlocking itself at will.
Side note, the number of wires going to the assembly is confusing at first. Looks like the camera and the handle/motor are on two different circuits and then there is a super delicate looking coax type cable, assuming for the camera itself. The assembly itself has a small wire loom going from one side to another, also.
Also found that the drain tube for the handle has disintegrated at the bottom, but the tube itself isn't clogged.
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not a VAG product but rather Stellantis craftsmanship: on our PHEV minivan one of the right sided sliding door actuators (choices being outside switch, B pillar switch, driver overhead console switch) likes to try to actuate itself all the time. like when driving.
when it's acting up you'll be driving along and on the center display "shift to park to activate sliding door" will pop up now and then.
quality. (I did bring it in to the dealer a time or two back when under warranty for this. and they didn't figure it out.)
Assembled in Canada*, with pride!not a VAG product but rather Stellantis craftsmanship: on our PHEV minivan one of the right sided sliding door actuators (choices being outside switch, B pillar switch, driver overhead console switch) likes to try to actuate itself all the time. like when driving.
when it's acting up you'll be driving along and on the center display "shift to park to activate sliding door" will pop up now and then.
quality. (I did bring it in to the dealer a time or two back when under warranty for this. and they didn't figure it out.)
*with globally sourced parts
So it has rained for 3 days here. The car has been parked and unused from Friday to now.
It appears that the sun roof is now leaking at the front (or the car is ever so slightly slowed to the front in the driveway).
It's not soaking wet, but let's add it to the list of things to fix.
It appears that the sun roof is now leaking at the front (or the car is ever so slightly slowed to the front in the driveway).
It's not soaking wet, but let's add it to the list of things to fix.
Check the drainSo it has rained for 3 days here. The car has been parked and unused from Friday to now.
It appears that the sun roof is now leaking at the front (or the car is ever so slightly slowed to the front in the driveway).
It's not soaking wet, but let's add it to the list of things to fix.
check the seal for shrinkage
Looks like the front passenger one is easy, but the driver side requires taking the wipers and wiper motor off...of course.
According to the weather man I have until Wednesday before it rains again.
Do you see actual drips from the sunroof?
I have always had issues with AC condenser drains clogging and ultimately making the whole interior damp. The only time I am not running defrosters I am pretty much running AC.
I have always had issues with AC condenser drains clogging and ultimately making the whole interior damp. The only time I am not running defrosters I am pretty much running AC.
Yeah I saw a drip from out the corner of my eye and thought I was seeing things. Then reached up and found the headliner wet, right at the front of the console thing. I tapped it and it dripped some more.
On the way home from the trails today I opened the sunroof to air the area out and noticed that the wind visor thing was soaked.
Possibly related is that last summer I was driving on every dirt road possible to get to the trails. Even if it took an extra 20 minutes, I'd take the dirt road. The car was not ever clean or not dusty.
On the way home from the trails today I opened the sunroof to air the area out and noticed that the wind visor thing was soaked.
Possibly related is that last summer I was driving on every dirt road possible to get to the trails. Even if it took an extra 20 minutes, I'd take the dirt road. The car was not ever clean or not dusty.
keep all the usual spots where debris likes to settle on the windshield and under the hood clear....
and if you have a panoramic sunroof with that cloth sunshade....either keep the sunshade open all the time and get the sunroof tinted...or cut the sunshade out...
when that fails you will be cutting it out with a razor anyway or spending a grand or more to have it replaced.
and if you have a panoramic sunroof with that cloth sunshade....either keep the sunshade open all the time and get the sunroof tinted...or cut the sunshade out...
when that fails you will be cutting it out with a razor anyway or spending a grand or more to have it replaced.
Or just fix the clog so that nothing leaks?
Just fill in all the gaps with spray foam
Was thinking a thick coat of flex seal. Spray foam might attract the critters.
I'm all seriousness, I saw someone posted on a random VW forum and that's exactly what they did. They used roll on flex seal, on the sun roof.
I mean I guess if it works, it works...
Sadly I do not have a VAG. This may be a blessing.
to prevent it leaking from other areas maybe...
like under the dash...where the hood release is at...
i don't know...up to you.
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Given that VAG refers to a dozen brands, what exactly are you swimming in?
I guess the electricians at work have put me on the ignore list.
Yo @HardtailHack what is the worst that could happen by purchasing a sub $50 multimeter like this one?
As it's for troubleshooting the wiring in my car, should I look for something specific? If this one says "max 600v", is that bad?
I need some education on the topic.
Yo @HardtailHack what is the worst that could happen by purchasing a sub $50 multimeter like this one?
As it's for troubleshooting the wiring in my car, should I look for something specific? If this one says "max 600v", is that bad?
I need some education on the topic.
The VW VAG.
If you are measuring more than 14.7V at any point in your car, shits whack. 600V is more than adequate.
Voltage and continuity testing should get you 99% of the way to diagnosing most of your potential wiring issues.
What adventurous said, but don't test spark with your meter, haha!
I bought an $80AuD one that was a volt off at 12V from new and had a non standard fuse that I couldn't buy.
I got a $20 Schneider pocket one and it is great, it gets used from time to time still.
Can't remember if it's a Sanwa with a Schneider label.
I like to have dedicated AC and DC locations on a meter, some that auto select AC or DC can get a bit slow at times.
One of the Klein ones at work is made for real electricians so every time you want to read DC you have to push a shift button, that's quite annoying.
What do you mean don't test spark with the meter? I really am a complete n00b.
600v is just the peak to peak voltage seen in 480v 3 phase. So as long as you don't have an electric car with 3 phase high voltage charger, you will be fine.
7-Function Digital Multimeter
Amazing deals on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
This little box has almost all the answers. Mine has answered many questions. From Broken wires to a working alternator. A VCDS cable and Windows laptop has a lot of others.
Not terribly VAG-specific, but I'm now on the second windshield replacement for my 2017 Golf R. Picked up the car the other day with the new windshield and the rearview mirror promptly fell off. Specifically, the mounting post that's factory bonded to the windshield. So that should be a fun fix.
I like this car but it feels cursed. Had a door seal issue resulting in water in the interior. Dealership replaced the door seal and carpet under warranty, but completely effed up most of the interior trim in the process. Believe it was 3-4 attempts to just get the door trim remotely close to acceptable looking (like end pieces of the trim just hanging loose in the breeze) and pretty sure that they just smacked the interior trim with a mallet each time I took it in. Eventually I took most of the interior apart and got it all fairly close to the way that it should be, although a large number of the plastic tabs were smashed from their efforts.
Also had a direct impact to the front grill from a piece of tire rubber that was kicked up on the highway, which also caused the first broken windshield. Still have a warning about the front assist not being available due to some radar damage/alignment issue that I haven't been able to resolve. And my neighbor, who owns a tree company, had one of his guys grind a giant ass stump on his property with the grinder buried in his gravel driveway. Pelted my house and car with a shower of rocks, so I now have dents in pretty much every panel on the right side of the car. I could have half of the car repainted, but somehow that feels more traumatic to consider than just living with all of the dents. Who knows what would get screwed up in that process.
I like this car but it feels cursed. Had a door seal issue resulting in water in the interior. Dealership replaced the door seal and carpet under warranty, but completely effed up most of the interior trim in the process. Believe it was 3-4 attempts to just get the door trim remotely close to acceptable looking (like end pieces of the trim just hanging loose in the breeze) and pretty sure that they just smacked the interior trim with a mallet each time I took it in. Eventually I took most of the interior apart and got it all fairly close to the way that it should be, although a large number of the plastic tabs were smashed from their efforts.
Also had a direct impact to the front grill from a piece of tire rubber that was kicked up on the highway, which also caused the first broken windshield. Still have a warning about the front assist not being available due to some radar damage/alignment issue that I haven't been able to resolve. And my neighbor, who owns a tree company, had one of his guys grind a giant ass stump on his property with the grinder buried in his gravel driveway. Pelted my house and car with a shower of rocks, so I now have dents in pretty much every panel on the right side of the car. I could have half of the car repainted, but somehow that feels more traumatic to consider than just living with all of the dents. Who knows what would get screwed up in that process.
I had some rocks embedded in the seams between siding and trim but otherwise nothing broken. He was completely unapologetic about the damage to the car, but did offer to pay for the damage. I got an estimate for ~$3k, which I didn't even share with him. Not sure if he's even in a position to cover that amount of money.Did he at least pay for the damage to your property?
My bigger thing there was...I was home! I'd spoken with them a couple of times during the day. They could have just been like "hey, you might want to move your car, we're grinding a stump next to it". If they give zero fucks about this, how much property damage are they doing on a regular basis with this business?
Usually the lemon law threshold is they attempt twice, and then have a final opportunity to fix it. At the 2nd successful attempt, you send them a certified return receipt and regular letter mail stating what has happened, quote the lemon law for your state, offer them the opportunity to do the one-last-fix or buy the car back. That gets their attention fast. Telephone calls...not so much. There is a time limit, you are probably outside of now...but you gotta know your rights! You can easily do 90-100% of what a lemon law lawyer would do and if you document this process...if you have to go the extra 10% and actually hire the lawyer, it'll be a clean buzzkill.
Yes, it does. You have the service receipts where they "attempted" to fix it. The reason they could not is immaterial.
We'd need to know which state he is from, buts lets say from Michigan.
Their law says it needs to impair the use of the vehicle and that it doesn't cover things done after the purchase of the vehicle. A door seal doesn't really stop you from using the car, unless it flaps out in the wind and wraps around your neck, that'd be less than ideal.
They'd probably argue that the seal itself was fixed, but some knucklehead caused the other problems.
Of course who knows, a lawyer would be best suited for this, like the man Steve Lehto himself.
Door seal keeps water out, water could short systems, cause mildew, create any number of issues. With additional noise, you wouldn't be able to hear the vehicle safety systems and warnings. Any number of these could be worth it, and the kicker is you may not really have to go down the road of having them buy back the car, in probably most cases you won't...but the official letter gets their attention, because it's written correspondence they can't claim they didn't get or wasn't made. So they tend to "fix" these types of issues really fast. Dipshit BMW person ran my air-dam over the curb when bringing my car back from being repaired for the cluster that the damn glass place screwed up. Chevrolet claimed my engine was messed up because I was using bad gas and that I was doing something over a time period that didn't even correspond to how long I had owned the vehicle. Don't let them get away with this crap. Get it documented. The service contract is also a contract between them and you to fix something, so again, document document document.
ANd here's that actual section of the actual law:
257.1402 Repair of defect or condition; report.
Sec. 2.
If a new motor vehicle has any defect or condition that impairs the use or value of the new motor vehicle to the consumer or which prevents the new motor vehicle from conforming to the manufacturer's express warranty, the manufacturer or a new motor vehicle dealer of that type of motor vehicle shall repair the defect or condition as required under section 3 if the consumer initially reported the defect or condition to the manufacturer or the new motor vehicle dealer within 1 of the following time periods, whichever is earlier:
(a) During the term the manufacturer's express warranty is in effect.
(b) Not later than 1 year from the date of delivery of the new motor vehicle to the original consumer.
A leaking door seal doesn't prevent use of the vehicle though and technically he didn't describe anything further from happening.
I mean yeah I agree with you, document it and fight for everything that the dealer won't do. They aren't there to be friends, they want your money, dead or alive.
But a leaking door seal really isn't the same animal as electrical gremlins or repeated faulty engines/transmissions/bananas/whatever.
I mean yeah I agree with you, document it and fight for everything that the dealer won't do. They aren't there to be friends, they want your money, dead or alive.
But a leaking door seal really isn't the same animal as electrical gremlins or repeated faulty engines/transmissions/bananas/whatever.
I disagree on that. The doorseal is designed and manufactured to perform an important function. Otherwise it would not be part of the car. As Jm said, it is a safety feature as well. Not being able to close your door prevents use. Not being able to drive without distraction caused bu the vehicle prevent use.A leaking door seal doesn't prevent use of the vehicle though and technically he didn't describe anything further from happening.
I mean yeah I agree with you, document it and fight for everything that the dealer won't do. They aren't there to be friends, they want your money, dead or alive.
But a leaking door seal really isn't the same animal as electrical gremlins or repeated faulty engines/transmissions/bananas/whatever.
Bullshit behaviour like this from manufacturers and stealerships shouldn’t be tolerated. They need to fix it correctly. It doesn’t matter how important the problem is.
This is literally the top reason that I refuse to buy a new car. I would have to rely on the dealership to service it and they can’t/ won’t do it to my satisfaction.
I’ve got a 2020 Toyota forklift that I bought new. It has had regular problems with idle circuit and the dealership blames us for abusing it. It lives in my shop, has 500 hrs on the clock in 3 years and gets services by a Toyota tech once per year.
I bought a new forklift instead of used because I thought it would be less trouble. It’s a fucking nightmare. A 40 year old forklift I could (and have) service and repair myself. This new fucking thing - you need a tablet and proprietary software to do anything.
Haha. Sorry, holmes, I guess you hit a nerve by defending the corporate stealership…