What you're describing there is something I've been going on about for a few years now.I think I figured it out (with some days of riding).
In a static world, those bikes that have 130-100% of AS would be just fine pedaling uphill, this means that you have a completely smooth surface with no grade changes and the suspension never activates.
The issue is many of those bikes have a falling AS curve/rate that drops off rapidly, as you go through say half the travel, the amount of AS goes way way down, 30% or less (just throwing that out, but common with many linkage bikes).
As you ride over bumps, roots, etc, your suspension compresses, if you try to keep pedaling, all of a sudden it's a wet-mattress effect as your pedaling input keeps the shock compressed. Probably not much of an affect downhill, but uphill pretty huge. In reality, the suspension is working all the time, maybe a soft 2" bump, or a 4" root, the suspension activates to a large extent, maybe going through 60-75% of travel on rocky uphills, but even on more moderate ones it probably still uses at least half the travel frequently. Possibly a little bit of weight-transfer "bob" will even start to affect this, depending on the bike of course. That's where it's not really telling the full story, because our rides are not static and this is where I notice that I can just "keep pedaling" and accelerating over the bumps on a bike with a 100-130% flat AS line.
From the video and website, the reign isn't a great example, because it has a significantly falling AS curve as well, so both the reign and the Enduro would suffer from the same basic issue, with the enduro being a little less through the travel according to the figures. Look at Yeti or modern DWs to see the difference.
The linkage website seems to only be qualifying the "pedaling" or "efficiency" at the sag point.
Yes, to put it in operational terms, you are pedaling along uphill and a root comes up, you keep pedaling and the suspension compresses maybe through half of it's travel, because it's a low speed event. At that point, all of a sudden, you need a lot more pedaling-force to keep the bike moving the same speed, and due to the significantly reduced AS, less of your pedaling energy goes to moving you forward, since a percentage is going towards keeping the shock compressed (squat) even more. Now do the same with multiple roots and rocks and all of a sudden you are having to power through that tech section with much more power as the rear end dives with each impact under power, unweighting the front end significantly. In other words, with a significantly decreasing AS curve, it's going to make the bike use more travel than it should while pedaling through such terrain and possibly cause you to stall out as it slows due to more energy going towards keeping the shock compressed or the front end wandering. Of course, you can have a relatively "flat" AS curve through the travel, which is what I'm experiencing now, but it's definitely a huge departure from the ones that drop off. Then you have to think about when you get tired and your pedal strokes get more jerky, contributing to more chassis movement that could active the rear suspension or sprinting, which will do the same. Again it will have an impact and make a noticeable difference between the falling AS-curve bikes.What you're describing there is something I've been going on about for a few years now.
The slope of the AS curve (not just the value) has a significant impact on the pedalling performance.
If the AS curve increases with suspension travel, then it has the effect of increasing the wheel rate when pedalling.
If the AS curve decreases with suspension travel, then it has the effect of decreasing the wheel rate when pedalling.
In contrast, the AS value (not slope) determines how much additional wheel force (not rate) there is when pedalling.
You can think of it like this: AS value increases your spring preload, and AS curve increases your spring rate.
Many bikes have an AS curve that decreases with suspension travel, which significantly reduces your wheel rate when pedalling.
This is hardly ideal, at a time when your rear wheel is carrying a significant % of your mass (due to weight transfer), and results in your "wet-matress" effect.
Meh, I think my video is more clear and succinctEasy and intuitive explanation of Anti-squat
Hope you like it Bye
And key for me is that every pedal stroke is an acceleration, more so when your cadence slows down or you really try to jam on the pedals, but even when you are trying to "spin". I don't buy that 0% AS is fully neutral to pedaling because that assumes no acceleration, which is impossible IMO. That's only when you are coasting IMO.With a 50% AS for instance, it means that chain tension is not able to extend the suspension enough to fully counteract the squat caused by the acceleration
I noticed that the I-tracks bikes have mainly an increasing AS curve in the pedalling zone.What you're describing there is something I've been going on about for a few years now.
The slope of the AS curve (not just the value) has a significant impact on the pedalling performance.
If the AS curve increases with suspension travel, then it has the effect of increasing the wheel rate when pedalling.
If the AS curve decreases with suspension travel, then it has the effect of decreasing the wheel rate when pedalling.
In contrast, the AS value (not slope) determines how much additional wheel force (not rate) there is when pedalling.
You can think of it like this: AS value increases your spring preload, and AS curve increases your spring rate.
Many bikes have an AS curve that decreases with suspension travel, which significantly reduces your wheel rate when pedalling.
This is hardly ideal, at a time when your rear wheel is carrying a significant % of your mass (due to weight transfer), and results in your "wet-matress" effect.
Not even when climbing up ledges / big square edges? I could feel difference between two chainrings on a high single pivot bike, or between frames with high/low AS.I've always thought about that when people discuss pedal kickback. I've almost never felt it on the trail. Most of my bikes stick with high antisquat values and therefore should have some higher degree of pedal kickback, but it's almost only on very steep climbs at very low speeds and happens very rarely, if ever. Maybe I'm unique, but the practical aspect of pedal kickback has almost never materialized in the real world for the same reasons mentioned above. Even with my Evil, which is a relatively high pivot, and my onyx zero-engagement hub, pedal kickback is unnoticeable on the trail. Being able to climb almost anything thanks to aggressive anti-squat values is, however....
You aren't wrong. Those things absolutely happen, and I'm fat too. I just think that, for a long time, the industry was concerned with pedal kickback as a buzzword, and the reality of PK out on the trail is minimal. I don't really experience the bike bouncing, as that seems to coincide with other motion or speed which mutes it.Or your bike just bounces or tire skips instead of giving you pedal feedback.
Just because it's not a tangible sensation directly through the cranks, doesn't mean it isn't manifesting itself somewhere. It just takes a lot to overcome the force of a downward pedal stroke. Between moving you and moving the bike, I know which one is lighter. That's not even a fat joke.
This behavior got exacerbated when being towed with the external ropes, which were tied higher, leading to the front end feeling lighter, and my weight being displaced to the rear of the bike. When I looked at the shock of my Rallón, I was well north of the 50% of the stroke, maybe around 60% (with the shock's lightest compression setting). when towed with the center rope, tied significantly lower, the effect was somewhat mitigated.
I'd ride a wheelchair before throwing a leg over one of those abominations. I just meant to showcase a more pedestrian example of the issues with AS and uphill performance discussed here.
You don't know how this particular pickup owner likes to start moving when going uphill. Trust me, you'd be better off pedaling a bit.Wait......
You wanted to 'avoid' the slingshot effect?
That's like half the point of using ropes.
What's wrong with you?
For PK, just try to pedal up the rooted trail (with roots tall almost as steps) on a 2x9 drivetrain (but don't tell anyone that you weren't on 1x zilion drivetrain) of a better pedaller like Banshee Rune. Gear in to the granny with one of the biggest sprockets and you'll feel the pedalkickback even while seated. Once you start pedalling hard and roll over the tall root you'll feel strong force pulling your chain back, against your feet. Designs like Banshee Rune require good pedalling technique even on clippless pedals while in granny.You aren't wrong. Those things absolutely happen, and I'm fat too. I just think that, for a long time, the industry was concerned with pedal kickback as a buzzword, and the reality of PK out on the trail is minimal. I don't really experience the bike bouncing, as that seems to coincide with other motion or speed which mutes it.
I do wonder about tire skipping though. I feel like I've experienced it with both too much anti-squat, but moreso with too little. All of the lower pivot bikes I've owned spun the tires going up dusty climbs when I tried to lay down the power. The worst was an older specialized FSR. That thing couldn't climb at all.