[HardtailHack]

Yeah Sycros rims DS-28 and 32 are a bit smaller diameter than other rims too, I blow DHF's off fairly regularly on my hardtail and after you get a couple of dings they spit tyres like crazy.

I really like the bead lock thing(?) on Arrow tyres but the rest of the tyre sucks balls!

 

[Tomasis]

^^Thanks for the extra support to my decision. I will NEVER run Butcher SX tires tubeless again. NEVER. I've been gathering info from bike shops and people around town and I'm led to believe the biggest problem I have with them and my rims is that they fit WAY too loose. I don't know if the tires err on the big side or my Roval DH rims err on the small side or both, but the general consensus is that if you're running tubeless for DH, the tires had better fit TIGHT.

As you and I have both found out, it's not a "worth the risk" kind of decision. My riding has taken a huge turn for the worse now as I am paranoid about my tires blowing off the rim. It might take me all summer to get back to the level I've been for 15+ years. Scary stuff.

yeah. but things change quite fast.

Super Gravity from Schwalbe look good! Sub 1000g, one could save 500g compared to normal Dh tires. I dont doubt that tires will hold well.

Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear in Gravity version. That I could use on DH and Enduro.

Currently I run Muddy Mary 2.5 normal snakeskin version 1000g in front (BB in rear DH version). Bigger size compensated other potential disandvantages but it'd burp on tiny rim (EX721) if I rode as WC champion. I feel that Gravity tires would be more secure with many carcases 4 ones (?) on sidewall. Wire replaced by aramid.

I dont know which version DH riders did run (Steve Smith). Super Gravity or normal DH 1200g. It will be interesting to see how the whole develops. I will be not surprised to see 1000g Dh tires.

Btw split tube ghetto method seems work very well. Look at Enduro scene and riders seem not get problem with it due tires stick againt rubber (tube). Otherwise more slippery against rim (metal).

 

[saruti]

you can see in the WC videos that smith used atire with a blue stripe on it.... so I think its the lighter version on front and the hevyier on the back

 

[Beef Supreme]

Tubeless enduro- a bit like chainless DH only gayer.

 

[Tomasis]

Weight wennies are so gay!!

 

[Lelandjt]

OP: I just wanna point out that every cut, hole, and flat you got tubeless would have also resulted in a flat with tubes. They may or may not have taken longer to completely lose air. The tire would have still come off the rim. I wouldn't blame the tubeless setup for your problems. I'd blame the too loose fitting rims, not using a durable enough casing for your application, and maybe using too low air pressure.

Here's another vote for stiffer, more durable casings in the 900-1100g range and 60a rear compounds.

 

[kail]

OP: I just wanna point out that every cut, hole, and flat you got tubeless would have also resulted in a flat with tubes. They may or may not have taken longer to completely lose air. The tire would have still come off the rim. I wouldn't blame the tubeless setup for your problems. I'd blame the too loose fitting rims, not using a durable enough casing for your application, and maybe using too low air pressure.

Here's another vote for stiffer, more durable casings in the 900-1100g range and 60a rear compounds.

I don't know about the holes. In my 17 years of riding this same trail I've never experienced "holes" in my tires that caused a flat with tubes. Pinch-flats aplenty, I'll admit. However, I've never gone from adequate pressure to tire-off-the-rim that fast. We're talking 1 second. 1 second to try to slow down from 25mph before reaching a 90* turn. I believe you're right about the tire fitting too loose on the rim being the #1 problem. I think the puncture let the air out fast and then when I reached the corner there was not enough to hold the bead on. I'm pretty sure there was at least 30 psi in the tire before the puncture.

Anyway, I'm just wondering if my rims are going to keep causing this problem with every tire I try. I had an old Nevagal 2.5 lying around that I tried yesterday just to see how it fit the Roval DH rim -- it was just as loose as my Butcher SX. An infant could have installed it. Is that just the way Roval DH rims are? Are they smaller than normal? If not, what are some good tires that fit tighter? I'm not a fan of a ridiculous tight fit, but I feel that it should take some effort to install the tire -- at least one lever for help. With these, no tools are necessary, not even close.

This whole issue has me paranoid even though I'm now back to using DH tubes with the Butchers.

 

[slyfink]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that Geax tires are small in that they fit tight. If you look up tire compatibility with Stans rims, you'll find that some brands are simply too tight to fit on Stans. give those a try.

 

[marshalolson]

OP: I just wanna point out that every cut, hole, and flat you got tubeless would have also resulted in a flat with tubes. They may or may not have taken longer to completely lose air. The tire would have still come off the rim. I wouldn't blame the tubeless setup for your problems. I'd blame the too loose fitting rims, not using a durable enough casing for your application, and maybe using too low air pressure.

Here's another vote for stiffer, more durable casings in the 900-1100g range and 60a rear compounds.

While a totally agree with stiff durable casings that are not 1200g+, a d prefer 60a for the rear, I gotta disagree with the idea that tubeless somehow prevents flats.

I punch rocks thru the center line of the casing tubeless all the time, weather is a 1000g super gravity tire on my trail bike or a 1200g tire on my dh bike. I basically never get flats with tubes, provided I check the air pressure before starting the day.

But throwing away $100 super gravity tires every 6 days because they are not up to the task of being used tubeless, while riding fast thru rocks on a damn trail bike is rediculous.