What are some light down hill bikes?

Andy_B · Aug 11, 2004

I have a Azonic Recoil that is around 37lbs... I didnt try to build it light... I have heavy cranks/pedals and wheels on it... XTR/ Lighter Pedals , 321s 14/15 with hadleys and a Ti spring on the romic
Im sure I can drop 2 lbs off the bike...

Jm_ · Aug 11, 2004

Andy_B said:
I have a Azonic Recoil that is around 37lbs... I didnt try to build it light... I have heavy cranks/pedals and wheels on it... XTR/ Lighter Pedals , 321s 14/15 with hadleys and a Ti spring on the romic
Im sure I can drop 2 lbs off the bike...

and i'm the pope.

this would be possible with 519s, 6" hayes, a Z150SL, eggbeaters, 2.3" tires, carbon bar, XT hollowtechs, etc....

I'm assuming yours isnt built that way. When the frame is approx 11lbs, the bike's not going to weight 37lbs without going to extremes.

Fury · Aug 11, 2004

Jm_ said:
and i'm the pope.

All hail!

kidwoo · Aug 11, 2004

Jm_ said:
and i'm the pope.

Your Holiness!!!!!

How art thou?

May your blessing reverse all metalurgistic traits of said materials!!!!

kidwoo · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
well the thing is cali4niabiker, I have only tested 2 bikes, they were like exactly the same, a rocky mountain switch, and a rocky mountain rmx. So i really have nothing to compare to. But the thing that I like about this bike, (from what he said) is that it hardley has any sag, and I hate sag. Im not asking people if I sould get it buy its looks, im basically asking if it is a good bike to anyone, new, or experienced. thanks for your reply!

Without specifying what bike you're talking about, yes you should definitely get it. It's exactly like the switch which is exactly like the rmx. Yeah I hate sag too. It takes away from huckability.

Enjoy your new bike!!

Matt D · Aug 11, 2004

Sag is wayyyyy overrated. The less sag you have the more huckable the bike is. Only gay race dorks need sag, look at bender.

Have you made up your mind yet (i.e. are you going to stop asking questions now?)?

Kornphlake · Aug 11, 2004

I'd go test ride more bikes, try and have them setup properly too, with current shock technology sag is definately your friend unless you ride paved multi-use paths. In all seriousness you should consider a used cannondale gemini with a super T. They'll come in right around 40 lbs off the show room floor, with tubeless and some other simple, cheap changes you'd be looking at mid to high 30's. The only lightwieght downhill bikes are going to be marketed as freeride bikes.

Acadian · Aug 11, 2004

Jm_ said:
and i'm the pope.

MASTER!!

binary visions · Aug 11, 2004

I love a blanket statement like "I hate sag" that immediately follows "I've only tried two bikes..."

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
well the thing is cali4niabiker, I have only tested 2 bikes, they were like exactly the same, a rocky mountain switch, and a rocky mountain rmx. So i really have nothing to compare to. But the thing that I like about this bike, (from what he said) is that it hardley has any sag, and I hate sag. Im not asking people if I sould get it buy its looks, im basically asking if it is a good bike to anyone, new, or experienced. thanks for your reply!

Sag depends on the spring rate and other shock adjustments, so he may have set it up with no sag, but that doesn't mean that it is inherently without sag. You definitely want a certain amount of sag, because it smooths out the ride. Also, you might be confusing sag with bob. Bob (the suspension moving when you pedal) is bad, but not a real big deal on a downhill bike, especially if you're just into freeriding, not racing.

cali4niabiker · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
well the thing is cali4niabiker, I have only tested 2 bikes, they were like exactly the same, a rocky mountain switch, and a rocky mountain rmx. So i really have nothing to compare to. But the thing that I like about this bike, (from what he said) is that it hardley has any sag, and I hate sag. Im not asking people if I sould get it buy its looks, im basically asking if it is a good bike to anyone, new, or experienced. thanks for your reply!

That is cool man. Keep on trying other bikes if you can to get a feel for them and don't limit yourself to two specific bikes. Keep tryin' them out and eventually you'll stumble upon one that you'll definitely dig.

GOOD LUCK

ChrisRobin · Aug 11, 2004

Buddy...if you get that Super 8, your sag will have to be about 25% of your total rear travel (someone jump in if I got that percentage wrong). Can your dad weld aluminum??? If you're talking about that green Super8, make sure the boxxer is 7", not 6". It sorta looked like the old one.

Ask Zedro to build you up a frame, his pic is around here somewhere. He'll charge you $1000 and it's made of ultra super-duper light steel that can be easily welded in case it breaks!

binary visions · Aug 11, 2004

Aluminum isn't something you can slap a weld on to fix it if it cracks. So don't assume that you can buy a crappy frame and fix it.

You complain about how you can't bunny hop the bikes, and how you hate sag, but you still are so resistant to a hardtail?

Stop it. Stop it now. You are looking for someone to hand you a perfect answer to your questions, when no such answer exists. Then, when a reasonable alternative is suggested, you start arguing with the person who suggested it.

Figure out what you're talking about, what you want, do some real research, then post some educated questions. The whole "learn by asking questions" doesn't work if you A) don't have enough knowledge to ask a proper question, and B) argue with the answers you get.

fuzzynutz · Aug 11, 2004

super 8 is a nice bike.. u gotta understand that everyone on here has their own preferences for sag, based on the type of riding they do. Nobody but yourself will be able to correctly tell what you should set your bike at. Test ride as many bikes as you can, pick one the feels the best to YOU. Then worry about setting sag and rebound and everything else. Its your money you are spending so you need to make the decisions for yourself not some 10 yr. old kid with a computer and internet connection. as far as weight of a bike goes. Just think of it this way, a heavy bike will only make you stronger in the end.

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
I understand sag is when you sit on the bike, and how far it goes down. A little sag is fine, but an inch or two? It was really hard for me to bunnyhop when test riding those bikes, it was probably set up wrong, but with 10 inches of travel, what do you expect for sag.

With 10" of travel, you should have around 3-4" of sag, but the exact amount depends on the suspension design and your preferences. However, a Super 8 has 8", so you should probably have about 2.5" of sag. That is the amount in the total travel--the amount of sag on the shock depends on the shock's stroke, but it should be about 1/3 of the shock's stroke. But don't worry about that for now--just choose a bike (other than the Super 8, IMO, because it does tend to crack), and we'll help you set up the sag when it comes time.

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

Also, if you could come up with $1400, you could get a brand-new Iron Horse SGS Pro from Supergo.

Matt D · Aug 11, 2004

Die thread die!

Kornphlake · Aug 11, 2004

You really need to test ride bikes on dirt, to see how you like them. I wouldn't expect bunny hops to be easy on any full suspension bike, but after some practice you can do it reasonably well, don't let a first impression impair your judgement. 45 minutes to get to a LBS, where do you live alaska? Not that it really matters, most of us ride bikes that your LBS wouldn't normally stock anyway. I don't blame you for not wanting to read through thousands of pages of text to find one simple answer, some of us have been getting on certain newbie's cases because they don't use the search function when in reality the answer to a question is distributed across hundreds of threads, it's not like you can type in "benefits of 4 bar suspension" and find a single thread that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know. Just hang in there kid, once your post count gets up around 70 most people will leave you alone, by then you'll understand how to word your questions better too.

Don't just assume your Dad can weld aluminum frames, while he may be an accomplished welder he probablly won't have the equipment to heat treat a frame after welding which means that no matter how well he welds the frame the weld will always be a weak point. Steel on the other hand while somewhat heavier doesn't need heat treating.

Take a look in the buy/sell fourm. If you see 19 Turner DHR's of various years being sold it is probablly a good thing, they are all great bikes that people are selling so they can get something newer, many people here only ride a bike 1 season reguardless of how the bike rides. If you only see one super 8 or one dirtworks it's not because people loved these bikes and don't want to sell them (although this is the case with the RFX) it's because they are obsolete and not worth the seller's time trying to sell or they are all broken and can't be repaired.

Other bikes that are good and readily available used are Iron horse sgs bikes, giant DH bikes, Bullits, AS-X's, Kona Stinkies, Big hits... they all have their own nuances but overall any of them will do the job.

Curb Hucker · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
Yeah, i was thinking about getting the iron horse, but I can barely get $1000, and anyway, my dad is going crazy about me getting a bike that is $1000 Bucks. I really think I should get that super 8, because there is not much else out there for $1000 bucks. (and dont say hardtail...lol)

please GO AWAY. no one here can help you, for the love of god (or pope JM) just leave. Your asshat retard questions are just pissing people off. Please go back where you came from

All monkeys - This thread must die as stoney put it, no one respond to it anymore

Kornphlake · Aug 11, 2004

I wanna add my final two cents just like you did, let's keep it going. Has anybody reccomended he check out transition bikes, new frames start at around $700 don't they? Transfer old parts off of the current bike, buy a used Z1 and you've got a mostly new bike for under a grand.

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

Kornphlake has a good idea. What kind of bike do you have now?

Brazil_boy · Aug 11, 2004

Well I think Orange 222 is the best way to go.
Even though orange's are the best bikes ever made they're the lighest bike I've ever seen. they just work phenominal...
I hope I helped you... :thumb:

:\Documents and Settings\Andre\Meus documentos\Minhas imagens\Fotos Kodak\2004-06-22

Just "PUSH IT" and you're going to have a KILLER Downhill's bike! :heart:

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

Brazil_boy said:
Well I think Orange 222 is the best way to go.

last time I checked, an Orange would run just a little more than $1000!

Tully · Aug 11, 2004

Like over $2000 for the frame alone.

Kornphlake · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
Thank you corn flake for replying. I appreciate it.

As for the rest of you, who think I should go HOME:

IF you dont want to answer the question, or read my posts, DONT, your not helping the thread, why is it you feel you have to read and put YOUR two cents in on every post. If you dont want to read my posts, DONT, go somewhere else.

While it's nice to give thanks to someone for posting you're really not helping your e-image by telling everybody else that it's their fault you weren't clear on what you're looking for. Honestly I'm not really sure what I've suggested has made any impact. You ask questions like will the bike be plush going down stairs and not bottom on a 5' drop. What you should be asking is, "can a bike be plush on small stuf and not bottom" add some stuff about what settings on a specific shock will make the most impact or compare a single pivot to a linkage typ bike. The answers will amaze you if you are respectful to those who respond, even if their response is some wise crack. You've gotta' learn to let some of the little stuff go.

Enginerd A2 · Aug 11, 2004

Well, we were all young once.

The reason people are suggesting you get a hardtail is because it makes good sense, based on your budget and apparent riding experience (or lack thereof). The fact that you had to drive 45 minutes to sit on any DH or FR bikes is another clue. I live in Michigan, there are very few DH bikes here because there aren't any mountains. Granted, there are a growing number of people around here with big bikes, but these are their second or third bikes in most cases. I rode a Kona Stinky for a few years and ended up selling it because it was serious overkill for 80% of the stuff I realistically get to ride. Now I ride a nicely setup FR hardtail, which works almost EVERYWHERE, and can still hang on almost all the stuff I rode with my Stinky. In addition to being suitable for the terrain I ride, it's also affordable (relatively) and reliable. So... you should think long and hard about what really makes sense. I know all those big travel bikes look sweet, but if you can only have one ride, they don't always make sense. The people on these boards who are nice enough to actually give you the time of day are (for the most part) knowlegable and experienced riders so you should at least consider their recommendations. Now, go ride some bikes, and if you really want to be a mountain biker, think about what you need instead of just what you want.

cali4niabiker · Aug 11, 2004

KonaJosh said:
Well, we were all young once.

The reason people are suggesting you get a hardtail is because it makes good sense, based on your budget and apparent riding experience (or lack thereof). The fact that you had to drive 45 minutes to sit on any DH or FR bikes is another clue. I live in Michigan, there are very few DH bikes here because there aren't any mountains. Granted, there are a growing number of people around here with big bikes, but these are their second or third bikes in most cases. I rode a Kona Stinky for a few years and ended up selling it because it was serious overkill for 80% of the stuff I realistically get to ride. Now I ride a nicely setup FR hardtail, which works almost EVERYWHERE, and can still hang on almost all the stuff I rode with my Stinky. In addition to being suitable for the terrain I ride, it's also affordable (relatively) and reliable. So... you should think long and hard about what really makes sense. I know all those big travel bikes look sweet, but if you can only have one ride, they don't always make sense. The people on these boards who are nice enough to actually give you the time of day are (for the most part) knowlegable and experienced riders so you should at least consider their recommendations. Now, go ride some bikes, and if you really want to be a mountain biker, think about what you need instead of just what you want.

Kona, I agree. This thread is getting a little annoying b/c of the vibe of "I know exactly what I want" from Oreo. Hey, I started with a GT bmx bike back in '90 and worked my way up over the years, but I officially started mountain biking around '96 with my first FS, a '96 Schwinn S.96 for 700 bucks new. Over time and while I piled up the mileage, it became crystal clear as to what type of riding I enjoy doing. That is getting a workout by climbing up and bombing down FAST, and there are some other skills that I have not even bothered developing such as bunny hopping and popping wheelies... which isn't something that I would consider doing at the moment. You never know until you start small and work your way up.

Whatever. Like I said before and the other monkeys have suggested, test a couple of bikes and find one that clicks with you and go from there. Don't worry about the specs, weight, and other small details. You are wasting your time if you are sitting at the PC looking over what has XTR derailleurs, 'Zocchi 888R, or whatever comes with the bike. You don't know how it works until you try it, right? Over time, you'll know what you want.... and that doesn't simply come overnight.

This is the last I will post in this thread. Best of luck Oreo.

Later,
CAbiker

OGRipper · Aug 11, 2004

Oreo, you will find that if you ask intelligent questions after doing some of your own research, this forum is an incredible resource.

But if after riding them you can't tell the difference between a Switch and an RMX, we can't really help you without starting with the most basic concepts and going from there.

So, yeah it might be aggravating and time consuming for you to sift through old posts, but you need to start from square one and learn about the basics of suspension design and bike setup based on the type of riding you intend to do. Most of us had to learn that stuff through trial and error and tons of time feeding our passion for bike tech. You won't find too many people here with the time or inclination to school you in the basics.

And how many times do you need to be told that there is no such thing as a reasonably strong 35lb true dh rig for $1000 new? You've been given advice but don't seem to really want to it. No matter how many times you stamp your feet, no one here will validate your ideas if they don't jibe with the real world.

So, take this as fuel for your budding career as a bike engineer and get started building that lightweight dh bike. Seriously. Go ahead and prove us wrong, I'll get in line for one...

PAMS 25 · Aug 11, 2004

36.3 lbs for the bike of a friend =>

zedro · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
Specifically weight of bikes, you just can't do a search on google to find the weight, they usally just say the weight of a frame, not the complete bike, I was just asking for a estimate about weight of the built up bike. I am trying to steer away from worrying about weight buy the way.

just to reitterate, at your budget, dont even consider weight. Frame weights are always generally close together within two pounds for a style of bike, its the $$$ parts that bump the weight down. Take it off your list.

fasterTHANyou · Aug 11, 2004

what about the rockhopper!? get the rockhopper! :nuts:

vitox · Aug 11, 2004

oreo321321 said:
I tried doing that, but most of the sites dont have older models (95% Dont have them)

Im going to get a used bike, so its not going to brand new 2004 probably

ive weighed a lot of dh frames to answer that question

lightest that i know of is the gemini dh and the karpiel disco volante both of which can be sub 10 bikes with a ti spring.

the m1 is 10,5 lbs until 2001 then it gained a half pound or so.

What are some light down hill bikes?

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