Porosity. I win.
....didn't even bother to read the thread to be proven even the slightest bit wrong. Beat that Udi!
....didn't even bother to read the thread to be proven even the slightest bit wrong. Beat that Udi!
What does a new zee derailleur look like after 3 PNW shuttle days?
- Thread starter blackohio
- Start date
Is it the Zee designed for 36t cassette or 28t cassette?
This might give some insight.
http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=1850
There are two versions of the Zee.
This might give some insight.
http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=1850
There are two versions of the Zee.
I have the DH ( 36t - i believe ) version and just ran the cassette Universal sold me. So there could be some incompatibility there because now that you mention it the cassette there looks like a 34/36t and not the smaller 28. I think they only had the 11-34 version in-stock and aside from a close ratio of the rear cassette I didnt see any reason to order the other over running the one they had. Universal has the records so tomorrow i'll verify that when I stop it. Good call there, it was a case of I want one of your Zee's (my saint blew up while in whistler) and i need a chain and cassette. when i went into UC.
This man speaks the truth, our shuttle driver does suck at driving his own truck and i do have a plastic bike.
My zee shifter lower cover did that as well 1st ride. Shimano to their credit sent me a whole new shifter. I sent my fed up rear derailleur back and shimano warrantied it. 2nd day in whistler no crashes my new zee started doing the same thing the old one did. Go figure.
Since this thread was started I stuck a Zee on my hardtail trail bike.
I have the FR version, which is the 11-36 range. (If you have the DH version, it is only good up to 28T)
And I'm running a 11-36T cassette.
On the 36T cog, the lower cage is stretched straight out to the maximum.
On the 11T cog, the chain is just barely tight.
I had to get my chain length just right to even accomplish this...there is a tolerance of exactly 0 links.
In my opinion shimano has designed the cage too short. Seems like a very obvious oversight on Shimano's part...
I am going to check my little bracket thing to make sure they sent me the FR one and not the DH one after reading this link (http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=1850).
I have the FR version, which is the 11-36 range. (If you have the DH version, it is only good up to 28T)
And I'm running a 11-36T cassette.
On the 36T cog, the lower cage is stretched straight out to the maximum.
On the 11T cog, the chain is just barely tight.
I had to get my chain length just right to even accomplish this...there is a tolerance of exactly 0 links.
In my opinion shimano has designed the cage too short. Seems like a very obvious oversight on Shimano's part...
I am going to check my little bracket thing to make sure they sent me the FR one and not the DH one after reading this link (http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=1850).
I have the same problem, though I installed it on a Mojo HD. I've had to limit out the 11t cog in order to not get too much slack. I have an SLX GS to install if this turns out not to work for me.
I have to say, the Saint shifter is brilliant. So light, smooth and precise. I friggin' love the thing.
I've run a short chain and broken them a few times. AFAIK, it never hurt the derailleur, but that was in the pre-clutch fancy pants derailleur days.
Anyone ride the Sram Type 2 stuff? Any comparison to the clutch systems on Shimano? My next bike comes with a x9 Type 2 and I'm curious if there's anything I should look out for. Thanks
I'm running a type 2 X9 rear der. Working beautifully. Chainslap is virtually nil. It is dead quiet on the trail.
For those wanting to run a top mount xc type chain guide, this is a must have when the going gets tough.
Supossedly the clutch design on the SRAM is a little more robust.
For those wanting to run a top mount xc type chain guide, this is a must have when the going gets tough.
Supossedly the clutch design on the SRAM is a little more robust.
ro·bust/rōˈbəst/Adjective: 1.(of a person, animal, or plant) Strong and healthy; vigorous.
2.(of an object) Sturdy in construction.
Synonyms: sturdy - strong - lusty - stout - vigorous - hale - tough
I'm still curious.
Did you pull your shock and cycle the suspension?
Were you running the DH with a 36t cassette?
Do you really set up all your bikes with that much b tension
?
Did you pull your shock and cycle the suspension?
Were you running the DH with a 36t cassette?
Do you really set up all your bikes with that much b tension
?
I didnt pull the shock, parted the bike after the stack-up. I was running the correct der/cassette. Went back to the shop to double check that correct parts were sold/given. According to the invoice everything is fine. I don't have the original packaging or derailleur so I couldn't tell you if that were the case or not.
As for the B tension, Those photos are a bit of a misrepresentation of a possible normal set-up, When it started ghosting and was all out of wack I started turning screws to see if any changes were made to get it to not jam up. frustration trail side.
since the bike is parted it's all a bit moot, but appears i'm not the only one having issues with this derailleur.
As for the B tension, Those photos are a bit of a misrepresentation of a possible normal set-up, When it started ghosting and was all out of wack I started turning screws to see if any changes were made to get it to not jam up. frustration trail side.
since the bike is parted it's all a bit moot, but appears i'm not the only one having issues with this derailleur.
Based what I've seen in my setup, running a Zee FR in the 36T cog on a full suspension bike with some chain growth could lead to spontaneous derobustification.
strange thing however is i set it up to limit out the last couple of gears, and it wasnt overly tight in the ones I did have, however stranger things have happened.
