Rapid rise means the spring is reversed meaning you don't push very hard to move up the cassets as with normal ones which mean cleaner faster more precis up shifts.
I think
nope. It's a derailleur where the action is reversed, so when you push the thumb lever on the shifter, you shift into smaller cogs. The trigger shifts you into bigger cogs. It's only available in XTR and maybe one of the lowest lines. Works with any Shimano shifter, and with SRAM's attack/rocket etc shifters.
The theory is that on both sides, the thumb levers put you into harder gears and the triggers put you into easier gears. In case you get those things mixed up
Originally posted by sub6 nope. It's a derailleur where the action is reversed, so when you push the thumb lever on the shifter, you shift into smaller cogs. The trigger shifts you into bigger cogs. It's only available in XTR and maybe one of the lowest lines. Works with any Shimano shifter, and with SRAM's attack/rocket etc shifters.
The theory is that on both sides, the thumb levers put you into harder gears and the triggers put you into easier gears. In case you get those things mixed up
That's what was implied by "the spring is reversed." /me in turn. I actually like RR derailleurs more than normal ones, but since I'm too cheap for XTR on most of my bikes, I make do without.
The theory is that on both sides, the thumb levers put you into harder gears and the triggers put you into easier gears. In case you get those things mixed up [/B][/QUOTE]
Most of us probably don't get those things mixed up but we might forget to downshift enough in preparation for an uphill. With the rapid rise you can make the downshift under tremendous load because the spring is helping you. That's the real advantage.
Originally posted by Steve from JH With the rapid rise you can make the downshift under tremendous load because the spring is helping you. That's the real advantage.
Umm, that makes ZERO sense. With RR, the downshift (shifting to a larger cog) is made by the trigger. In other words, you click it, and the spring makes the shift for you. With normal rise, the downshift is made with the thumb paddle - you push it as hard as necessary to make the chain move up. The normal rise should enable you to make shifts under more load, because the limiting factor is not the strength of the spring, but the strength of your thumb.
I certainly hope your thumbs are not weaker than the spring in a derailleur.
Unless I massively misunderstood the RR principle, which I don't think is the case...............
Umm, that makes ZERO sense. With RR, the downshift (shifting to a larger cog) is made by the trigger. In other words, you click it, and the spring makes the shift for you. With normal rise, the downshift is made with the thumb paddle - you push it as hard as necessary to make the chain move up. The normal rise should enable you to make shifts under more load, because the limiting factor is not the strength of the spring, but the strength of your thumb.
I certainly hope your thumbs are not weaker than the spring in a derailleur.
Unless I massively misunderstood the RR principle, which I don't think is the case...............
Okay, did this go over your heads or over mine? Of course shifting effort is easier, because you're downshifting with the trigger, right? You just click it, and it does the work. Duh. (Am I right on that one???????)
The problem (in my mind) is that if you use the trigger, the only thing pushing the derailleur cage over is the spring. Right?
If you use a normal rise, you can increase pressure with your thumb, but with RR, the spring can only exert just so much pressure, and it's not nearly as much as your thumb can exert. If you're under load, you might need a LOT of force to make the shift happen, and can that puny little spring exert that force, since you can't help it out???
The same problem happens up front - you hit the trigger under load, and the damn thing won't shift because the spring isn't strong enough to overcome the tension on the chain.
If this ^^^ is not correct, then why not? Do I have the whole RR thing wrong (triggers=downshift/bigger cogs, thumb paddles=upshift/smaller cogs)????
Sub6's argument makes perfect sense on paper. But when Rapid Rise was introduced the selling point was that you could shift better under load. That's why I started using it and still do. It's true.
I didn't have any problem with the backwards thing because I simultaneously happened to change over to Gripshift. Since I had to relearn how to shift anyway, there was nothing to unlearn.
They do shift better under a load. Because the spring is pushing the derr onto the larger cog it can wait a split second or two until you either lighten the pedaling force or one of the special ramped/angled/whatever teeth comes by on the cassette - giving you a nice clean shift.
With a regular derr the cable will just force the chain over NOW - giving a greater possibility of a bad shift - either a skip or a broken chain or something.
I ran a RR XTR on my mt. bike a few years ago and the shifting is a touch better. However (at least in my case) it took a while before I stopped instinctively shifting in the wrong direction in tense situations. You don't think about that thumb or finger shift, you just do it and the RR will have you going the wrong way for a while. And unless all of your bikes are RR or not I would imagine you will get very screwed up. I even got a little off on my road bikes - the STI shifters have 'click' and 'pull' levers which mentally go along with the click and pull on the mt bike.
So all or none on the RR, and give yourself a while for the wrong-way shifts to subside.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.