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What Gucci shock to get? Avy Chubie, Elka Stage 5, or BOS Stoy?

Muttely

Monkey
Jan 26, 2009
402
0
Just got a reply quote from Elka about a Stage 5 for my session, supposedly they have atune that will allow the shock to sit higher, while increasing small bump peformance. this is the no.1 issue with the DHX on my session, to keep it sitting high so it corners faster, i have to sacrafice grip and small bump, might just have to switch over to one in july/august ish time!
 

ohio

The Fresno Kid
Nov 26, 2001
6,649
26
SF, CA
Read my above post. Radically different technology, and the fact is that it really doesn't have the same available settings as other shocks.
It's not that radically different. Really, you guys are overstating the difference between a shim stack and poppet valves. They achieve the same ends and adjustments achieve the same results. I stand by my claim that with enough time on a dyno, you could match curves.

All of that being said, I think it's nearly impossible to beat a shock that is custom built and tuned for your frame, weight, and riding style. So if you can't get the CCDB to feel the way you want, get an Elka. Their motorcycle shocks are fantastic (though I run an Ohlins).
 

Biffff

Monkey
Jan 10, 2006
913
0
This is pretty much it. No matter what setting I arrive at with the CCDB I'm still compromising somewhere and having to think about the back end of the bike too much when I ride, dare I say, moreso than I would be with my gutted Swinger 6-Way. G-outs are about the only place I can think of that the CCDB excels over other shocks. Square edge hits I'm having to fight the back end too much on and "brace" for, it can still blow through travel off of drops, especially onto rough stuff, and it can kick like mad. Trying to skim over the tops of bumps and guess what wild motion I'm going to get out of the back end is downright scary.

I've spent a LOT of time messing with all the settings on it, and my sag is dead on too (33-35% depending on my burrito intake for that given day). I have yet to arrive at a setting where I'm not having to guess what the shock is going to do at some point on the trail. The best setting I arrived at was:

LSC: Full out to 3 clicks in, max
HSC: 1-1.25 turns in
LSR: 8 clicks in
HSR: 1.5 turns in

The way I arrived at this was: any LSC would make it kick like a mechanical bull unless you leaned all the way back and slammed the rear wheel into a tall curb and kept your knees locked. Small trail junk would deflect the wheel real bad. Any less HSC and I would bottom the hell out of it. Any more and it would spike hard on fast stuff.

LSR has to be at minimum 7 clicks in to keep the back end stable coming off of smaller obstacles in the trail and rockgardens. 8 is comfortable. 9 or higher and it packs. HSR is where it's at to get acceptable lift off of jumps. Any more and it just sinks. Any less and it gets bucknasty.

The perfect shock is the one I don't have to even think about on the trail. Hell, the perfect bike is the one with not a single piece of gear that draws my attention away from the trail and going faster. Time and energy spent trying to guess what my equipment is going to do is just wasted. It doesn't even necessarily have to be plush, just stable.

What frame are you running the CCDB on???? I've used the CCDB on a Maestro bike and now my Demo and I can't really see where your comming from. I have easily found settings that make a pretyy sweet ride on both bikes. I find that I have had to run much more HS compression on the Demo due to the more linear linkage, but Once I dialed that in the bike takes the big hits well without effecting any other properties.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,955
10,539
AK
It's not that radically different. Really, you guys are overstating the difference between a shim stack and poppet valves. They achieve the same ends and adjustments achieve the same results. I stand by my claim that with enough time on a dyno, you could match curves.

All of that being said, I think it's nearly impossible to beat a shock that is custom built and tuned for your frame, weight, and riding style. So if you can't get the CCDB to feel the way you want, get an Elka. Their motorcycle shocks are fantastic (though I run an Ohlins).
If you are sure that you could get the same results, why wouldn't all the major shock companies just use a big poppet valve (spring where you can adjust the preload on the valve) instead of a shim-stack? According to your logic they would perform the same, but is preloading a spring really the same thing as having a shim-stack? (in terms of how it blows off, the shape of the stack and how that affects it, and is spring force (rating) the same as preload?).

It doesn't seem like these are the same thing, or that they could all give the same results.
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,877
Champery, Switzerland
Oh. I don't know about the Lucky but the M3 seems like it would hard to set up like the OP is trying just by the nature of the bike. I think it would be probably be easier to find someone who understands the M3 to tune the shock to the OP's liking rather than try and find another off the shelf shock.
 

Kanye West

220# bag of hacktastic
Aug 31, 2006
3,767
501
I guess I shouldn't say it was a "bad" feel over any of that stuff. With the settings I arrived at, it felt pretty good. It was just unpredictable. It's hard to tell, but it just seemed pretty inconsistent going into two similar hits. I guess it's not beyond the realm of possibility that something might have been loose in the shock (poppet spring or piston shim preload?) since it's now totally done, so I was having to guess what the thing was going to do.

Yeah I'm not even going to get into the whole spring damping curve vs. potential shim damping curves thing. Completely different.
 

Kanye West

220# bag of hacktastic
Aug 31, 2006
3,767
501
I think it would be probably be easier to find someone who understands the M3 to tune the shock to the OP's liking rather than try and find another off the shelf shock.
What does this mean exactly? I already tried talking to it about it's feelings and all, but it just shuts me out...

9.5" travel out of a 3" stroke, frame stays progressive through the whole travel in a "linear" fashion, meaning no abrupt ramp-ups like you'll find on a V10. Pretty rearwards for the first half of the travel, then arcs forwards a bit near the end. Anything critical I'm missing?