E13 BSA 30mm BB and the BB is "open" in between the cups, no "tube". So the bearings weren't the worst I've ever felt, but they needed replacing...they were damn near welded to the spindle though. I had to pound one of the bearings off with a punch bit by bit. Corrosion on the spindle. I cleaned it really well, wire-brush and some corrosion cleaner/inhibiter. Put some new SKF bearings in there. It's baby-butt smooth now, but I wasn't expecting to have bearings jammed on the spindle when I took it apart.
What have you broken on your bike recently?
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Ouch......man glad you got it fixed even more so glad you got your use out of it lol....yeah a jammed bearing is always a surprise...especially on spindle.
I should probably service mine, they aren't bad not like yours, but probably due for a tear down...can't hurt....plus I don't want to have to pop seized bearings lol
Actually came with decent bearings though that lasted 2 years, NSK I believe. It's an external deal, so it relies on the bearing's seals and dust seals over the bearings, kind of open inside obviously. I have an E13 11spd cassette that shifts way better than it ought to. Especially because I don't have to many any adjustments between it and my smaller XD cassette when I switch wheels. That one is don't-ask, don't-tell.
Yeah, there might be some odd gems in their assortment, absolutely! They had excellent tires for a while, for example.
But their chain guides were shit and their wheels were a lot of troubles. And I heard or witnessed too many bad stories to even consider them as an alternative
But their chain guides were shit and their wheels were a lot of troubles. And I heard or witnessed too many bad stories to even consider them as an alternative
I don’t know how old you are, but in the early days e13 chain guides were the best. I’m still running one from 2005 or whatever. Has been solid. This is also before the company was sold. My experience with products of the new/current company have been mixed.
What would you have run? They were the only bash ring that truely worked for me. Guess at Snowshoe a couple of bend chainrings could have been avoided using one of those.
What was better back then?
Never heard of Straightline in 2003. Did that guide exist back then? The options in North America as I recall them were MRP, Mr. Dirt and Evil/E13… with E13 being the best imo.
TBF back then I basterdised and modified various parts to make my own far better mud shedding guides.
Neither of my current DH bikes have a chaindevice at all. One is single speed with a sprung tensioner and a homemade polycarbonate quarter bash attatched to the crank spider. The other runs a close ratio 5 speed cassette spaced to have optimum chainline along with an old XO short cage non-clutched mech and a NW chainring but has no bashguard fitted at all. I do have an ISCG mounted top chain guide and taco for it but I've never needed it.
Neither bike has ever dropped a chain. And there's nothing to jam in the first place when it gets super muddy.
Those old E13/Evel guides were prone to trapping thick mud between the chainring and bashguard and after a few runs in proper shitty UK/Scottish conditions if it wasn't jet washed/scraped out would eventually clog bad enough that the chain would ride up and off the chainring and they'd often jam your cranks.
The diameter of those old bash rings was ridiculous. Way bigger than the 40T rings we ran back then and that reduced clearance by quite a bit meaning you hit more rocks in the first place. Clearance is way better these days as most folk seem to be running much smaller diameter 36t or smaller rings and bash guards that don't protrude a whole lot lower than the ringGuess at Snowshoe a couple of bend chainrings could have been avoided using one of those.
They certainly weren't indestructable either as I smashed an E13 supercharger clean in half at Fort William one year.
They made different diameter bash guards. Not sure from when on.
I guess I was lucky with the Supercharger bash rings then. Mine always had bad scars, but never broke. The e13 chain guides were fine in the Orgeon mud, but it is not super sticky. You had to clean them though, but during the ride I never had issues.
Any pics of your homemade guide? It sounds interesting!
I know.
Each sized bash was considerably larger in diameter than the chainring size it was designed for though
I doubt it. I never actually owned a camera until about 2012. and even then it was just a potato cam on a cheap android phone so rarely used. I don't even have pics of my kids before then.
I'd agree. Prior to the Evil/e.13 chainguides the other options were pretty hopeless. There might have been one or two exceptions, but the bigger brands (MRP, Mr Dirt, AC, etc) were all just as bad for mud-clogging, with the added penalty of being one rock strike away from being a complete write-off or a race run ruined.
I remember filing the outer edges down on the MRP plates repeatedly because they'd get gouged and bent pulling the chain out of the device. Plus the little orange rollers littered every DH track around because they'd come undone no matter what you did.
Evil at least made the other big brands go with a impact resistant construction eventually. They also contributed by basically bringing in ISCG when everyone else just trapped the boomerang behind the BB shell.
do you remember the old MRP slalom guides?
The ones with two rollers bolted to the backplate/boomerang and two bashplates mounted to the spider either side of the chainring?
If you ran a chainring (I cant' remember what size it had to be now) that was the same diameter as the plates if you bashed something the chain/chainring AND both plates would take the hit at the same time and those two rollers would stop the chain coming out the "sandwich". this was actually a pretty solid set up.
I made a similar set up bodged together with old parts and used a small homemade non rotating guide on top instead of the top roller and found appropriately sized bash plates with larger cut outs for mud shedding.
Yep had one on my Turner DHR. This is a before and after of the same bike after 2 race seasons. The evolution of stuff that broke was pretty fast back then.
i ran the old lg1 for a long time-like 2006-13-ish...it was pretty good. buddies and i all converted to 1x pretty early on. i tried to get rid of it all with the advent of narrow-wide and clutch, but would drop the chain in low gears in the rough and rox. have run just a oneup top guide ever since. doesn't weigh a lot, and zero drops/issues.
There are plenty of ways that you can hurt a man
And bring him to the ground
You can beat him
You can cheat him
You can treat him bad and leave him
When he's down
But I'm ready yes I'm ready for you
I'm standing on my own two feet
Out of the doorway the bullets rip
Repeating to the sound of the beat
Just the opposite arm of DS I’ve already broken. Was running with an xx1 on the other side.
And bring him to the ground
You can beat him
You can cheat him
You can treat him bad and leave him
When he's down
But I'm ready yes I'm ready for you
I'm standing on my own two feet
Out of the doorway the bullets rip
Repeating to the sound of the beat
Just the opposite arm of DS I’ve already broken. Was running with an xx1 on the other side.
Pedal insert spun loose?
Not spinning yet, but wobble. Obviously broken, you can see the crack on one side and the on the pedal side where the wobble has crumbled away the edges.
For the fat-bike I had bought xx1s a while back, by finding the cheapest 30mm xx1s I could find, then ordering a race-face 190 spindle, which=same as SRAM "fat" xx1s, but significantly cheaper. Since I just built up a new bike, I used the same crankset, except I had to punch out the old spindle and put a new 170mm in. I decided to just put the 170 in this Next I had lying around as interim. So that lasted about 2 weeks, haha. Punched out the axle today, re-fit it in the xx1.
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Got a scratch while trying to get a cap that fell off the bike under a motor in the garage so technically it's the bike's fault.. I won though kept digging till I got the little bastard ..
away
Xx1 crank arm just let go @ 2000-2500 miles.
The crank arm is no longer bonded to the spindle connector
The crank arm is no longer bonded to the spindle connector
BB30
Need pics!
Nice!
I'm saving my busted RF crankarms for a bait-bike. I only have to break one more.
Lol nothing beats a slice...that's a good one ...bear traps used to do that really bad even through pants....man that looks like it tagged bone
