An overtorqued bolt will break. An undertorqued bolt can also fatigue rapidly and break.
What have you broken on your bike recently?
- Thread starter rideit
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An overtorqued bolt will break. An undertorqued bolt can also fatigue rapidly and break.
Bike industry: 5NM: undertorquing, 4NM: overtorquing
As someone who once spent 3 days with a tiny dremel tool removing 12 broken 3mm bolts from a $100,000 spindle I wonder why you think the bike industry is different. Thankfully I was responsible for the broken bolts, only responsible for dealing with the results.Bike industry: 5NM: undertorquing, 4NM: overtorquing
We ordered some button head bolts the right length and ordered washers the correct OD to make it work similar to the original bolt. Get Titanium ones for bling if you want. The ebay bolts and washers got here faster and cheaper than the Norco replacement ones could.
There's a lot of **ckery with bike bolts. Shallow head torx that you can't get a bite on, large surface area pivot bolts with tiny hex or torx interfaces that strip out. Basically, the surface area of the threaded portion is so giant that you can't get a bite in the soft aluminum head and any thread locker just jams it even more...and this is with heat. Unlike little 4 or 5mm bolts where the threaded portion is about the same diameter as the hex interface. Then there's seatpost bolts. Only torque to xxx....which means **ck all if your seatpost slips, which a good portion still do, even with carbon paste, cross-hatching the post surface, etc. I could go on...but this industry is continually scraping the bottom of the barrel and it's nothing to be proud of.
snapped another oneup dropper lever off yesterday. oops.
am i the only one seeing a trend with the failures here?
Loam levers are pretty nice, probably like the one I have slightly more than the Bikeyoke, but not much in it.
Is it by any chance the original plastic lever? If yeah, email them and they'll most likely send you the new metal ones.
The old plastic ones had a lot of failures, if hit in the right direction. I snapped mine on my knee.
Speaking of OneUp, my dropper post stopped working mid-ride on Saturday. The thing would not stay up or down. I thought maybe the cable end got gunked up and was holding the valve open, so I removed it from the equation and it still does it. Not sure what's up with that, but the mechanism at the end of the post does has a bunch of grease or something on it - hopefully it returns to normal function after I blast it clean with some brake cleaner.
the oneup cartidges are not unknown for failing like you describe (my last one went in under a year). fortunately they're great with warranty support & had a new cart on my doorstep in a couple days (though probably doesn't hurt that they're less than a hour away).
The i9 fanboiism is quite mind-boggling to me.
Such average hubs.....
Have you ever tried turning a hydra driver..... the don't go round easy...
The average hub doesn’t fail like that does it? Not in my experience anyway.
In the case of used, all bets are off.
i rode it for 5 years. prior owner had a good couple years in them as well. im not even mad, shit happens. was bummed that i missed riding some new to me trails as a result tho.
The master cylinder on my rear Code RSC seems to be dying. The lever throw is all notchy/squeaky.
I fully flushed them and bled the bajeezus out of them about 8 rides ago, exercised the piston seals, lubed them and the brake felt amazing for about 5 rides. All squishy and crappy again.
FML
I'll be replacing (read: "having my") master cylinder replaced this week.
I sure hope it works. Otherwise I think I'll jump back on the Magura train. I was a fool to let those go on my Nomad...
EEEEEDIOT!
I fully flushed them and bled the bajeezus out of them about 8 rides ago, exercised the piston seals, lubed them and the brake felt amazing for about 5 rides. All squishy and crappy again.
FML
I'll be replacing (read: "having my") master cylinder replaced this week.
I sure hope it works. Otherwise I think I'll jump back on the Magura train. I was a fool to let those go on my Nomad...
EEEEEDIOT!
A two cross lacing pattern is a bad idea unless you like rim brakes.
2x was apparently the standard lacing configuration from enve for the generation rims i have.
You think my wheels are gonna fail? I am trying to put some give into them with 32h 2x
interesting...will email, although i ordered a loam lever. will be good to have an alternate/backup.
From a corporate warranty perspective a fatigue failure at 10 years is perfectly acceptable.
Why? 2X should be a few grams lighter and possibly a little stiffer at the cost of higher spoke tension under torque.
you're already dead apparently
tell us why you really hate 2x
I don't hate it. I have just gone down many rabbit holes on wheel builds and every design choice has it's advantages and disadvantages. All else being equal 2X will give you a lighter and stiffer wheel at the cost of higher stress in the spokes and hub flanges. I believe @boostindoubles is building wheels for a rigid bike and I know he likes things on the strong side so a 3x setup may work better for him.
I imagined that a 2x lacing may be more noodly than 3x. I don't have any facts to back it up other than. 2 is less than 3 so that means less stiff right??
A longer spoke will deflect more under similar loads so 3X will be noodlier. However the difference will be greater laterally than vertically. The secret to a smoother riding wheel lies more in the rim than the spokes.
Yeah and I went with the welded DT Swiss 531 gravel rim w/ 24mm ID. Probably will be plenty stiff wheels. Shooting for a 2.2" tire so that's gonna be where most of the give is going to be.
Oh I wasn't accusing you of it.
I'm sure Even if you did like them you'd see them as a let down. I meant in general most squids are like "ah ho i9 sick brah love the sound"
"swarm of bees" "the 590 poe is noticeable over the 144" - no just no
They aren't sealed well at all, mine are always full of moisture when I take them apart, to replace bearings, and I've broken a drive ring and the shell.
I9 and Hope are the weakest 'nice hubs' I've run across. I ran CK for years with no issues besides the hubs coming loose and needing adjustment. I liked the Profile Elites except the buzz began to eat my soul. They functioned beautifully though.
Onyx is a design that CK shelved and some employees ran with so at least it has some pedigree. I know quite a few people riding their stuff with no issues.
Dang it I also have XT hubs with thousands of miles on them with zero maintenance or issues.
Onyx is a design that CK shelved and some employees ran with so at least it has some pedigree. I know quite a few people riding their stuff with no issues.
Dang it I also have XT hubs with thousands of miles on them with zero maintenance or issues.
let down? idk. i run stuff for a long time, so i guess i'm a little more used to seeing stuff have lifetime fatigue failures. i mean i like the hubs well enough, but they wouldn't be top of my list if i was doing a wheel custom build for myself.
Yeah but you rarely ever see a Shimano hub shell/flange fail. The weak points have pretty much always been the bearings and Freehubs. Although bearings do remain perfectly serviceable for years if you keep on top of maintenance the disposible non serviceable Freehubs pretty much never last much more than 5000miles if ridden in typical Scottish mtb conditions.
Ughhh it's definitely buggered. Tore it down completely, cleaned, lubed etc etc and it still does the pogo.
Oh well. Will email them and see. Bummer that it happens days before a long weekend.
In other news, I put new brass keys in it and that thing is solid now. Didn't realize how much side to side wobble there was...
So long as King makes a rear hub, I'll keep using them.
#fancy
#fancy