What have you broken on your bike recently?
- Thread starter rideit
- Start date
-
Two more days to enter the Secret Santa!
Entries must be in by midnight on November 29th. We're kicking off the 2024 Secret Santa! Exchange gifts with other monkeys - from beer and snacks, to bike gear, to custom machined holiday decorations and tools by our more talented members, there's something for everyone.
unpopular opinion. ex471, doubledown casings, properly built, proper pressure...zero inserts. whatever conditions. zero problems
I guess I need to check in the morning!
I'm there with you (different choice of rims), but same for the rest. I've been trying inserts off and on for the last year or so, and am so fucking over warped casings and all the rest of the issues. The straw that broke the camel's back for me was putting inserts in a couple weeks ago for a trip to Northstar. When I took them out, I found this in both tires:
Fresh Orange Seal Endurance in both tires when mounted. DH rear / DD front casings that were clean inside. I never get Stanimals like this without inserts.
Pshhh 511
acceptabru. will probably go that way if my 471s ever die. would like a little more width since all you can get easily are wt's (in maxxis)
Ah I just run the WTs on my 471s and they're 100% fine.
Also, as an aside - the DeeMax wheelset that came on my Mega is still kicking along fine after 18 months and a few suboptimal line selection choices. Didn't know what to expect and was a little worried about trying them but can't really fault them. The one possible issue is the low engagement rear hub is frustrating for trail riding on techy climbs, but thats not what I use that bike for really.
The insert's porosity has some part on it for sure. Think of it as a sponge you're pushing into the sealant on every impact, which makes it absorb the liquid component and leave the goopy one to lump together.
My neighborhood riding buddy:
Was just out on the Hardtail all of a sudden the back wheel started making a lot of noise I thought for sure I shredded another hub however if I slightly depressed the break and peddled the noise went away confused do you know what this could be?
Me: could be many things. Bring it by and we'll see.
The rear most bolt of the IS to frame bit was completely missing so I think that was the root cause of things
Was just out on the Hardtail all of a sudden the back wheel started making a lot of noise I thought for sure I shredded another hub however if I slightly depressed the break and peddled the noise went away confused do you know what this could be?
Me: could be many things. Bring it by and we'll see.
The rear most bolt of the IS to frame bit was completely missing so I think that was the root cause of things
Buddy broke his second frame in 8 months I destroyed a front wheel in rocks at snow summit went over bars lol...
How?
So, I have had some teething issues getting used to Fillmore valves. This one snapped in half on our ride today, not quite sure what happened, but I have theories.
My buddy is selling tubeless schrader valves if you want to drill your rims out.
Transition? Why would the weld crumble away like that, too brittle?
N
if you land sideways the pivot mounts on frame take the load versus vertical on bearings...
Lay bike on ground sideways put back tire on curb then repeatedly jump on mid frame....stress goes to hinged point (mounts) not bearing's and not in vertical path...something's got to give eventually..
He needs a bit heavier frame and he lands really sideways sometimes...
He cracked his turner same spot on pivot mounts on frame,
It was a na snab.. weak link of that area...
if you land sideways the pivot mounts on frame take the load versus vertical on bearings...
Lay bike on ground sideways put back tire on curb then repeatedly jump on mid frame....stress goes to hinged point (mounts) not bearing's and not in vertical path...something's got to give eventually..
He needs a bit heavier frame and he lands really sideways sometimes...
He cracked his turner same spot on pivot mounts on frame,
Last edited:
only possible with open cell foam, not closed cell.
also during an impact it would be getting squeezed out, when an open cell foam gets compressed any liquid or material that has been absorbed into the void spaces would pushed out. then when the compression is over and the foam returns to its original shape (form) it would pull liquid back in.
Hmm, a few observations on your line of thought
:- Even closed cell foam breaks on impacts (even at microscopic level). The liquid component of the sealant gets sucked into these tiny pockets.
- Microscopic amounts of sealant might not get squeezed out of these tiny pockets because of surface tension, which overcomes pressure at that scale.
- Surface area is then increased, which in turn accelerates the drying rate of the sealant.
You might not note it first hand, but if you weight the inserts before installing and after a while you'll notice it has gained a bit of weight. Take into account the dried component stuck into the insert will weight a tiny fraction, being the liquid component the biggest one.
the ability of a given foam to resist failure over continued compressive load cycling is determined much moreso by the base polymer used (and it's density) than by whether or not a foam is reticulated.
i thought the drying of sealant was caused by the evaporation of the liquid through the tire walls. since any insert would be contained within the tire, i don't think it would contribute to the evaporation in the manner you are describing. it would contribute to sealant reduction via absorption rather than evaporation, no?
I'm a bit lazy today, but I recall reading about the sealant/insert inevitable interaction somewhere a few years ago, when Cushcores first showed up. One of the factors contributing to the sealant's fluidity is the thin drying film formed on top of the much thicker liquid phase. When the sealant enters the tiny pockets in the insert this ratio falls down dramatically, which in turns prevents it from leaving the insert on compressions.
well then
Yeah these are 8 to 10 years old by my estimation I don't really recall they've been on many bikes
I might have a match to send you, I’ll go look.
Do you want this right? Or can I offer you shipping for the left? Either one is fine. I am always looking for XT or above, I kind of like them a little worn out.
All good. Pulled from the spares bin.
Dropper lever remote. The kind that is weird and is above the bar. Weaksauce crash and now weaksauce lever.
Not sure on the real answer since on ebike and Scott w/ suspension adjustment via levers at bar. Makes for a crowded cockpit. Pretty sure these days we could put the ebike motor controls on the frame as it doesn't get used much? Then no need for fancy ebike specific handlebar (for stealth wire hiding). Not sure about anyone else, but I always change out my handlebars for what I prefer. Rendering fancy hbar for hiding wires useless...
Not sure on the real answer since on ebike and Scott w/ suspension adjustment via levers at bar. Makes for a crowded cockpit. Pretty sure these days we could put the ebike motor controls on the frame as it doesn't get used much? Then no need for fancy ebike specific handlebar (for stealth wire hiding). Not sure about anyone else, but I always change out my handlebars for what I prefer. Rendering fancy hbar for hiding wires useless...
it‘s more like magic, the more you press the upper button the more the uphill pain goes away. highly recommended
I'm sorry, couldn't hear you over your tidy af cables rattling around so loud
I'll post a picture later. But the main difference is that the shimano motor selector is huge, like old school shimano 2 paddle, under the bar set up. So due to that, you really can't put anything else on that side of the bar, under the bar.
Removing TwinLoc wouldn't do anything except remove 2 cables as that sits on top of the bar, above the motor selector.