Yeah, thanks for that info! It really comes down to that motor controller. So switching it to the EM800L would make a left hand dropper lever (under the bar) possible.just checked, you‘d need a SW-EM800L + EW-AD305 adapter to connect to your EW-SD50 system
Yeah, thanks for that info! It really comes down to that motor controller. So switching it to the EM800L would make a left hand dropper lever (under the bar) possible.
The right side has AXS shifter. Nothing else will fit under the bar with that bad boy. It's just that big. But it is awesome!
View attachment 179337
HAHA I know right?
Yeah, thanks for that info! It really comes down to that motor controller. So switching it to the EM800L would make a left hand dropper lever (under the bar) possible.
The right side has AXS shifter. Nothing else will fit under the bar with that bad boy. It's just that big. But it is awesome!
View attachment 179337
Maybe you hit a rock?One DD Maxxis Dissector, died an early death on Apex.
Simultaneously too much psi and not enough psi. It's like the Twilight Zone at that place.Maybe you hit a rock?
When too much psi is also too little then the casing is too lightSimultaneously too much psi and not enough psi. It's like the Twilight Zone at that place.
The casing is *always* too light at Apex. Regardless of what casing it is.When too much psi is also too little then the casing is too light
We sold those solid foam tires at the bike shop.The casing is *always* too light at Apex. Regardless of what casing it is.
Man, that reminds me of how in the late 90s/early 00's every DH track was littered with little orange MRP wheels that would fall off their OG chain devices.Cog wheel on mrp g3 chain guide ...broke in half..so not much first time usually I tear the back of it off...
Lmao totally forgot about that...old boomerang style. Stepped urtethane for dual ring for the cool kidsMan, that reminds me of how in the late 90s/early 00's every DH track was littered with little orange MRP wheels that would fall off their OG chain devices.
Sounds like a job for Der Panzer!I'm there with you (different choice of rims), but same for the rest. I've been trying inserts off and on for the last year or so, and am so fucking over warped casings and all the rest of the issues. The straw that broke the camel's back for me was putting inserts in a couple weeks ago for a trip to Northstar. When I took them out, I found this in both tires:
View attachment 178584
View attachment 178585
Fresh Orange Seal Endurance in both tires when mounted. DH rear / DD front casings that were clean inside. I never get Stanimals like this without inserts.
Where do the spokes break?I broke 2 more spokes on the drive side of my rear wheel. That brings the count to at least 6 on this wheel, all on the same side. I was talking to my mechanic friend, and we both think it's because Fanatik laced it 3x/2x. We're going to relace it to 3x/3x because I'm not especially fat or shreddy. I shouldn't be able to break spokes that consistently.
Inside the nipple, right at the end of the threads. Every time. They did use washers, but the spokes don't feel like they're double butted. New ones will be.Where do the spokes break?
I had a Hope wheel a few years ago that broke every counter-clockwise spoke on the left hand side at the J-bend. I replaced them as they broke and once they were all replaced it never happened again. I always wondered whether it was crappy original spokes, some issue with the lacing or a manufacturing issue with that hub. It was only the left hand side and only the one direction.I broke 2 more spokes on the drive side of my rear wheel. That brings the count to at least 6 on this wheel, all on the same side. I was talking to my mechanic friend, and we both think it's because Fanatik laced it 3x/2x. We're going to relace it to 3x/3x because I'm not especially fat or shreddy. I shouldn't be able to break spokes that consistently.
My theory: the builder overtightened the spokes to center the wheel and released tension when it was realized. But the damage to the spokes was already done.I had a Hope wheel a few years ago that broke every counter-clockwise spoke on the left hand side at the J-bend. I replaced them as they broke and once they were all replaced it never happened again. I always wondered whether it was crappy original spokes, some issue with the lacing or a manufacturing issue with that hub. It was only the left hand side and only the one direction.
paging @i've beat on carbon bars for years and had less problems than with aluminum...Paging @FuckCarbon
Looks like it.Comments said they were renthal aluminiumium
Kind of interesting, because I always use aluminum bars and never think about their age or inspect them...Looks like it.
I've never even seen al bars break like this. At clamps, yes but not like that. That's a fucking disgrace, renthal.
I'm just really glad that sharp bit isn't what hit him in the chest.
I've probably seen more renthal carbon bars break than anything else current (not counting eastons 10+ years old), but those fuckin losers can't even make aluminum bars?
I rotate them out on my dh bike about every 2-3 years.Kind of interesting, because I always use aluminum bars and never think about their age or inspect them...
Yeah every couple years for alloy bars. Technically carbon bars should be more fatigue resistant than alloy ones, but I'd replace those sooner. Like immediately. And install alloy options.I rotate them out on my dh bike about every 2-3 years.
I'm not going to say the sentence, because then it will happen.All your bars will break
See my broken Renthal stem from earlier in this thread that failed because of bad process planning, a worn out machine and bad quality control, that behavior is usually endemic in a company.Looks like it.
I've never even seen al bars break like this. At clamps, yes but not like that. That's a fucking disgrace, renthal.
I'm just really glad that sharp bit isn't what hit him in the chest.
I've probably seen more renthal carbon bars break than anything else current (not counting eastons 10+ years old), but those fuckin losers can't even make aluminum bars?
Their mtb arm is a disgraceSee my broken Renthal stem from earlier in this thread that failed because of bad process planning, a worn out machine and bad quality control, that behavior is usually endemic in a company.
If this is what it took for you to realize renthal makes shit bike components, I'm worried about more than just your bars.God damn it, I like their aluminum bars, mostly because the 7/5 backsweep makes my wrists happy and they come in a lot of rise options. Now I'm skeered.
Their stems are bad. I'd hoped that a company that's as well known for making aluminum moto bars could figure out an MTB one.If this is what it took for you to realize renthal makes shit bike components, I'm worried about more than just your bars.
You ever check out the wall thickness on moto bars?Their stems are bad. I'd hoped that a company that's as well known for making aluminum moto bars could figure out an MTB one.