What have you broken on your bike recently?
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Or the hundreds of kits that don't require re-dishing, just space over your rotor. I even got one for centerlock that finally works with my DT 180. Previously I had made my own spacers and was just getting enough engagement of the lockring, but it wasn't great and kinda heavy because the spacers were brass. But now it's even better. I'm not junking wheelsets that work perfectly fine.
I suppose that'll be an option. I have spacers on my front hub, so why not the back?!Oh right the wheel...
Its not the most elegant solution, but would this work?
Booster Rear Hub Spacing Kit - 6-Bolt
Booster thru-axle hub spacer kits are designed to give your non-Boost front and rear thru-axle hubs the boost they need to fit any Boost-compatible frame or fork.problemsolversbike.com
You'd just need to get the rear wheel dish adjusted...or I guess just run it and see if it rubs?
Though I'm trying not to get ahead of myself, I'll see what Transition says... last time I got a replacement, the warranty guy said they still had plenty of replacement seat stays in stock... fingers crossed that's still the case.
A buddy of mine figures he could bond a piece of aluminum there and wrap it in carbon fibre... that might get me through the season?! who knows... but he built himself an airplane, and actually flies in it, so I trust his workmanship
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frikken eh?!!! they got back to me, and have replacements in stock! Man I love that company... there's no doubt my next bike will also be a Transition.I suppose that'll be an option. I have spacers on my front hub, so why not the back?!
Though I'm trying not to get ahead of myself, I'll see what Transition says... last time I got a replacement, the warranty guy said they still had plenty of replacement seat stays in stock... fingers crossed that's still the case.
A buddy of mine figures he could bond a piece of aluminum there and wrap it in carbon fibre... that might get me through the season?! who knows... but he built himself an airplane, and actually flies in it, so I trust his workmanship
Most recently, I cracked a rim on my XC race wheelset...a 290g rim that I had beat to hell and back through 5-6 years, so no skin off my back there, but set up 142 with DT 240 front hub and 180 rear, in other words, nice hubs. So to build a comparable wheelset at a similar weight and just a bit wider to be more modern...I'd be looking at $2000-2500...to make it "boost". Or I can buy rims, use the same spacer kits I've always used...save literally thousands. I'll use the spacers. I have an MRP "better boost" spacer on the front that spaces over the brake adapter, so the front rotor doesn't need a spacer. CL can be tricky, but if you have 6-bolt, these things are dirt cheap and easy, no reason not to IME, unless you just want to throw away perfectly good wheels or you have a better reason.
What do you think, bendable back?
Either way, going to find out after I crack this beer. Gotta ride tomorrow and it's a holiday weekend, ain't nobody got time for not riding!
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These stupid plastic cane creek spacers too. Good thing I'm sitting here looking at the bike. And I had just replaced the top ones with metal units on Tuesday. Close call there eh.
Either way, going to find out after I crack this beer. Gotta ride tomorrow and it's a holiday weekend, ain't nobody got time for not riding!
:edit:
These stupid plastic cane creek spacers too. Good thing I'm sitting here looking at the bike. And I had just replaced the top ones with metal units on Tuesday. Close call there eh.
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For some reason, my pedals keep loosening themselves on my XT FC-M8120 crankset. The threads are in perfect condition on both parts, the pedals are new (Deity Deftraps), I have always used grease and pedal wahers and the appropriate torque.
Would plumbers tape help? Any other ideas? They are still scratchless and look brand new, but out of warranty if that could have been an option. I did measure the threads' hole diameter and it's bugger than those on my Race face crankset, but I haven't compared the pedal threads' diameter with others yet.
Would plumbers tape help? Any other ideas? They are still scratchless and look brand new, but out of warranty if that could have been an option. I did measure the threads' hole diameter and it's bugger than those on my Race face crankset, but I haven't compared the pedal threads' diameter with others yet.
if they're loosening themselves, could it be that you have swapped left and right pedals? caus' they're supposed to tighten themselves if they're threaded in the right way....
(I know this is an obvious point... don't want to come off condescending, but it seems like the obvious place to start... sorry)
Haha no worries. No they're 100% on the right side (I still checked to make sure since they're symmetrical). They don't loosen themselves much, like 1/8th of a turn (just rode twice yet with those pedals yet). Maybe I should tighten then more, but they're pretty tight already.
Otherwise, I'll blue loctite those suckers in there, I don't have anything to lose and it's going to be possible to remove them anyway. I wouldn't do that if they stayed tight, but since they fit loose, why not.
Otherwise, I'll blue loctite those suckers in there, I don't have anything to lose and it's going to be possible to remove them anyway. I wouldn't do that if they stayed tight, but since they fit loose, why not.
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Peen over the end of the axle.
You say the threads are perfect but if you ridden with loose pedals you might have opened 'em up a bit. Second the ideas for loctite and more ugga duggas.
If they're "opened up", it's E-Z Lok time, not adhesive goo and more torque.
Yeah that’s what I think happened… oh well.
With the way those Shimano cranks are made, I’m not sure if EZlocks would have enough material, but if the loctite and uggaduggas don’t work, I’ll try that as a last resort.
I’m almost buying RF Aeffect Rs as we speak though.
No real damage , bent the hell out of a rim last week beyond repairing ..ordered some i9 grade 300 rims and flew ex3s as back up.
Mine recently did the same, and after some minor thread repair, a dab of blue thread locker solved the issue
Maybe Vibra-Tite is worth a shot.......?
So many dildos showed up as I was typing that in to Walmart's search bar.
Good point. I had a brand new set of oneup's strand me 5 miles from the car when they shit the bed.
My Cane Creek DBAir IL developed some foamy oil, so I figured I should just bleed it.
After taking it apart, the oil was black as night, even though it only saw a year or two of very occasional use.
Turns out the inner barrel lost its anodization where the pistons glideband rubs over it.
The shock has had a long life with multiple owners, and even though it was upgraded to the latest spec, this tube was still original.... luckily found a replacement in Germany for not too much €€€
After taking it apart, the oil was black as night, even though it only saw a year or two of very occasional use.
Turns out the inner barrel lost its anodization where the pistons glideband rubs over it.
The shock has had a long life with multiple owners, and even though it was upgraded to the latest spec, this tube was still original.... luckily found a replacement in Germany for not too much €€€
Not broken, but still shitty. Brand new spring all sorts of bent.
Chirping and squeaking on the retainers, needs 3+ turns of preload just to get even contact.
Chirping and squeaking on the retainers, needs 3+ turns of preload just to get even contact.
Warranty that shit. I had a similar issue with one a few years back, and Mirka had a new one out to me ASAP.
I ended up trying the plumbers' tape thing and it seems to have worked great with my new pedals. Cleaned the threads perfectly, addded 3 layers of tape, greased like usual and torqued to 35Nm. The Crank Brothers' axle's thread is 0.1mm smaller diameter than the previous Deitys, so I thought it would be worse, but nothing moved.
Maybe it was the Deity's then, or not enough ugga duggas, but the tape adds just enough material to make the threads less prone to vibrating I guess.
Ugh, Lyrik airshaft has a small scratch, causing it to leak air from the negative chamber into the lowers... must have removed the circlip when I was drunk last time, causing it to scratch the dang thing.
Yes sir!
Fluid Focus is the US distributor for SAR (maybe even bought them outright?), and a new one will be here tomorrow.
They said judging by the graphics it was an older spring that somehow got mixed in with the current stuff.
Perfect timing, going to get some rain the next few days for super tack DH laps.
Been trying to figure out this creak that started after I put on the TRS+ cranks. Big beefy carbon cranks in 165, but ever since I did that, I've had bad creaking. Changed seatpost, BB, done all sorts of greasing of collar, BB, bearings, etc. Seems very likely it's the cranks. Can't figure out how to get my old metal cranks back on...but they are too long anyway. Some new Atlas cranks are probably the ticket. RF doesn't mess up metal cranks much.
I don't say this often especially when I take a digger....I got tore up but aside of crank getting a bit chewed my frame managed to get ZERO marks sliding across dirt and I to bushes...not 1 mark...and yes I washed it looking for damage, figured I gutted the carbon on a spot or 2...
Not a damn mark.....(Knock on wood!!!)
So "what didn't I break" on my bike this time...never had a high speed crash and bike laugh it off..
Not a damn mark.....(Knock on wood!!!)
So "what didn't I break" on my bike this time...never had a high speed crash and bike laugh it off..
The MicroSpline freehub bearings are a fucking joke. Tiny and flimsy. No wonder why the cassette started binding and pushing the chain forward while coasting.