What have you broken on your bike recently?
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Would you be so kind to put that in libraries of Congress or some other easily understandable units?
I'll just agree to disagree.
My fancy XT/XTR cable set up is slower than my AXS. But can't really prove it. Just gut feeling. Again. Something for the internet video nerds to prove.
And there is something to be said about ease of set up. Can we agree on that? There's no cable to fuss about with, right? It just works, right out of the box. How many times can you say that? About anything these days?
And for ebikes. If You got electro shifting. No need to drop to motor (which is a PITA) in order to change a derailer cable?! Or Seatpost? Sure it's clean. But really?! That is pretty janky design if you ask me.
No one should ever have to drop a motor for a cable change.
Kind of reminds me of the old school Nissans and timing belt chains. Like really? FFS. I don't buy Nissans anymore. Not sure if that's still a thing.
Please stay out of this unless you can actually prove you have two bikes with the different set ups.
There IS a very good reason for that.
I have a video of a brand new T type AXS setup on a brand new bike shifting through the gears while on the workstand. pedalled at a reasonable cadence it takes an incredibly long time to shift from 10 to 52T and back to the 10T when just holding the shift switches in.
I don't know how to post vids from my phone to here. The Vid's a dull AF watch anyway TBF
Nope. Not at all.
You fuss over cables? Why. They're really very very simple things.
But then I must've fitted tens of thousands of bicycle brake and gear cables in my time. So I'm perhaps not the most sympathetic to that complaint.
I'd agree routing cables can be a ballache from time to time. But the worst frames you'll ever come across are Ebikes and Roadbikes which are universally hated here so irrelevant to this discussion.
Not always. No.
Plus it needs to be paired, OG AXS often still needs indexed and Both still require the battery to be charged. ie. MOAR faff.
T-Type can be a nightmare to sort out when it doesn't "just work" out the box. Not often. But believe me. it IS a thing. That whole indestructible , You can stand on it shit. is just marketing BS too. Much like spreading jam on CDs BITD! When asked to stand on one. My mate, to much amusement broke the demo T-Type derailleur at the UK launch. We've warrantied a few now.
probably not many. But only because I lose interest fairly quickly when forced to repeat myself over and over. *hint*
also. The SRAM UDH and T-type derailleur connection has slight a flaw in it's design. As it's been designed to be able to rotate on the frame. If it's hit, or when the rider removes the rear wheel it (even when torqued to spec) it can rotate out of alignment and fuck up their mech's operation. and there's actually no exact position for the mech to be set at due to difference between frame design. Tell me that won't be a faff for your general non mechanically ept rider trailside?
Nu Shit is still shit! Ie. still stinks
Oh... SRAM has tons of room for improvement.
If you're happy with everything they produce. Great!
Don't get me started on their Ebike motor. Hahahah
If T stands for terrible and you can "shift" it from the bike to the bin, then yes.
But who actually does that in the real world? I see your point. You did your due diligence. Right on.
But it's not really valid in real life application. If you have to dump an entire cassette and then come back up all that fast? I'd love to see that trail. Heck, I'll come out to you and bring the beer.
Wow bro. Just wow. Have an IPA on me.
What? Who changes more than one gear at a time?
I'd have thought pretty much everyone who rides mountain bikes would do at some point.
I know I do pretty much every ride.
Y'know... when changes in gradient or changes in speed happen.
Incase you still haven't realised. The point I was making with the example I asked you to try was to show you that ALL multiple shifts are slower with AXS than cable shifting.
Adidas has done a fine job with 5:10 impacts..brand new cut the tag off today , 2nd run down and bike park and sole was hanging off, other is tearing off...so I rode today with no bottom to my shoe..
I never liked 5.10s anyways. I am about to order another pair of Ride Concepts.
Have you ever tried to stop the bike with the brakes, just for a change, instead of going full Fred Flintstone?
I like my RC's but the toe box is so damn low, I tried to run a different innersole but couldn't because my toes were pressing on the top of the toe box. Decent shoes but they are narrower than 5/10s and the heel cup is weird but I'll still buy them again if they go on spesh.
That's reminded me, I need to buy a shoe stretcher.
I’ve switched to Specialized 2FO from 5.10’s after many years and couldn’t be happier. My last pair of Freeriders had about as much grip as wet noodle. All of the2FO options have been 50-60% off lately too.
I was just thinking about how much I hate the local Spesh shop but I figure I'll have a look at the Spesh Aus site, this is the first thing that came up when looking for apparel.
Nope, I'll buy something from a less douchey brand.
All of Specialized products seem to be perpetually on sale since a year ago or so. Maybe they've changed management?
Pretty sure they haven't actually made that version of Impact for like 8-10 years. It definitely predates Adidas acquisition. They don't even make the Sam Hill anymore.
Nope...lol..good ol BMX days of a shoe in back tire to stop ..Mom got pissed if have sideways holes in shoe bottoms within a couple days..
the sole of one my Fizik Gravita Tensor's broke at the edge of the cleat plate and toe plate.
They were in otherwise excellent condition. But still, after two full seasons, I figured that's that. So I went to the shop to try on new shoes and the sales guy asked me how long I'd had them, caus' they might be able to warranty them... I checked my receipt and I bought them at the beginning of the 2022 season and thanks to Strava I knew I'd ridden them exactly 103 times!
I sent them pictures and they submitted the claim. I wasn't really expecting anything but lo and behold, Fizik warrantied them! So now I have new shoes. Pretty happy overall.
They were in otherwise excellent condition. But still, after two full seasons, I figured that's that. So I went to the shop to try on new shoes and the sales guy asked me how long I'd had them, caus' they might be able to warranty them... I checked my receipt and I bought them at the beginning of the 2022 season and thanks to Strava I knew I'd ridden them exactly 103 times!
I sent them pictures and they submitted the claim. I wasn't really expecting anything but lo and behold, Fizik warrantied them! So now I have new shoes. Pretty happy overall.
Wife’s TMACs it is then.
A spoke broke on my rear wheel on the bikepark bike. It broke just at the start of the thread. This spoke was on the low tension side of the wheel.
Sapim race spoke 2.0 butted to 1.8 mm mounted on dt350 hub with ex471 rim.
Sapim race spoke 2.0 butted to 1.8 mm mounted on dt350 hub with ex471 rim.
Can you see threads above the nipples on your wheel?
You might be onto something! I built this wheel with the dreaded squorx nipples. I usually don't use them and for whatever reason I don't remember I did... the spoke length was most likely calculated for standard nipples. I could see the thread a bit below the top of the nipple on the broken spoke. Maybe 1 or 2 mm below the top.
When I check with Dt's calculator, the spoke length should be 1mm longer with squorx nipple compared to standard. It doesn't sound like enough to make a meaningful difference, what do you reckon?
Well, seeing the thread ABOVE the nipple is a quick and easy check to see you don't have enough engagement. If you don't see that, then you have to look inside the rim and if the nipple is flush or even slightly protruding into the rim by a mm or so you are usually good.
As you can see, if you are protruding ABOVE the nipple with thread, it will leave you precious little actual engagement, which tends to break nipples. 1-2mm below *can* be ok, depending on the threaded length of your spoke and the size of the nipple, but those squorxs nipples look to prefer the engagement area significantly below the head. I even find some spoke calcs will round "up" and that's often a significant issue IME, if they are rounding up, I'll round down instead.
Hmmmm
I think I got super lucky that the broken pawl didn't tear everything up, can probably chug along until I find some new ones.
But it also appears that the drive ring is cracked in a bunch of spots. Le sigh.
I guess I better start budgeting for a new wheel...
I think I got super lucky that the broken pawl didn't tear everything up, can probably chug along until I find some new ones.
But it also appears that the drive ring is cracked in a bunch of spots. Le sigh.
I guess I better start budgeting for a new wheel...
The next pawl is cracked too.Hmmmm
I think I got super lucky that the broken pawl didn't tear everything up, can probably chug along until I find some new ones.
But it also appears that the drive ring is cracked in a bunch of spots. Le sigh.
I guess I better start budgeting for a new wheel...
So that's a Novatec premium?
If so, do your pawls have numbers stamped in to them? I think it was on the underside of the pawl.
My new hub, got maybe 30km out of it.
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Yikes didn't notice the other pawl. I didn't look for numbers on it.
This hub is from before they called them Premium, when they were under Factor.
I can probably lookup how far this one has gone, but I've had this one since the start of 2019. So it's at least done a fair bit of work..
I got maybe 300 French Miles out of two sets of pawls, I should see if the ring is cracked.
Climbing and hitting a root or something seemed to be when my pawls would pop, they'd go one at a time.
EDIT- Are your spoke holes elongated?
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That sucks. I don't remember ever hear or feeling that, which is odd. Did yours snap off like that one?
Where'd you get replacements from?
Yeah, mine sent out a big bang sound and shock through the frame, seemed to happen on rough climbs.
I didn't bother with new ones, shit hub and I laced it wrong which weakened the flanges, did the usual by lining the middle of the logo up with the spoke hole but that put the spokes in the wrong locations and couldn't be bothered fixing it.
EDIT, My pawls had 1, 2, 3, 4, 4, 4 stamped in to them, not sure why, they all looked the same.
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Oh right, I'm guessing you took the pawls from your other freehub?
I just clued in that I have that other XD driver freehub sitting in a box somewhere....I guess I'll rob the pawls from that one. I forgot that I changed that about a year ago.
Bought a secondhand Kitsuma Air shock for little money because the previous owner didn't feel like paying for an expensive service.
While servicing found out the IFP removed all anodisation in the reservoir, and that thing is machined from a single piece, so cannot be replaced.
Luckily Cane Creek saw this coming, and introduced a bladder to replace the IFP system. I even was able to order the part at my LBS!
Guess it's not exactly a part that "I" broke on my bike... but its another problem to fix. Luckily I now have the skills to service this baby, find the parts, and measured the X-rings for future servicing.
While servicing found out the IFP removed all anodisation in the reservoir, and that thing is machined from a single piece, so cannot be replaced.
Luckily Cane Creek saw this coming, and introduced a bladder to replace the IFP system. I even was able to order the part at my LBS!
Guess it's not exactly a part that "I" broke on my bike... but its another problem to fix. Luckily I now have the skills to service this baby, find the parts, and measured the X-rings for future servicing.
pedal insert came out of my SixC crank. inevitable I suppose.... waiting to hear back from Race Face if I can purchase a new crank arm...
edited to add: Race Face isn't as responsive as they used to be. So I called my bike shop. Apparently, they do sell replacement arms, but at $150 each (if they even have any SixC's left). for an extra $100 I can get a whole new (aluminium) crankset. I'm going to go full send and get an orange crankset, to complement the blue and orange theme on the bike... wth, you only live once! and there's nothing like lipstick on a pig!
edited to add: Race Face isn't as responsive as they used to be. So I called my bike shop. Apparently, they do sell replacement arms, but at $150 each (if they even have any SixC's left). for an extra $100 I can get a whole new (aluminium) crankset. I'm going to go full send and get an orange crankset, to complement the blue and orange theme on the bike... wth, you only live once! and there's nothing like lipstick on a pig!
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