DT comp, 32 in both wheels, like I say, the spokes seem to last about 2 years begot they start to fail. I think the mega stiff rim probably just puts more force on the spokes and leads to failure.What spokes you running
DT comp, 32 in both wheels, like I say, the spokes seem to last about 2 years begot they start to fail. I think the mega stiff rim probably just puts more force on the spokes and leads to failure.What spokes you running
BetterIf I hadn't already replaced them with Moar Spoakez
I would go braid some gorilla tape spokes. Just like berd right?
Do the spokes break, or the nipples? I am the first Derby customer, my rim and the spokes are still running strong.DT comp, 32 in both wheels, like I say, the spokes seem to last about 2 years begot they start to fail. I think the mega stiff rim probably just puts more force on the spokes and leads to failure.
With the tire mounted and pumped up?Always been built with brass prolock nipples, using a tension meter
Did you just put epoxy? No fibers?Sanded down the epoxy and wrapped it with gorilla tape.
Wrap it with glass.Anyhow I wouldn't cover the damage so that I could see if, and when, it starts to delaminate again.
You are lucky that it isn't the front brake.
Crash or just riding along?
I always leave the clamps on my levers loose enough that they will just rotate in a crash.
Edit: bolt fell out?
Wasn't even riding. Stopped for munchie/map consultation and the obviously not well enough supported bike went down.You are lucky that it isn't the front brake.
The shimzIsn't that why you sent it to them? What's actually broken in there?
I'll play... my second air cartridge died on my Oneup V2 210mm dropper. Oneup covered the cartridge under warranty and sent the updated v2.1 actuator which fixed the binding issues I was having with the v2 actuator.
The design of the V2 actuator has cable housing move around vs the actual cable itself if that makes sense. So if I've rearranged my cable housings and forgot about how the actuator works and don't leave enough slack the dropper will either get stuck open or it won't work at all until I get it situated nicely. It also kept pushing out the dropper post cable housing grommet in my frame.What is the binding you were experiencing?
Weird, worked fine for me. I did replace the cable when I switched over, I dunno if that matters, my cable was all fraided and I couldn't get that little barrel nut thinger on the cable.I received a v2.1 actuator but it doesn't seem to work correctly with my v2 post. It won't stop actuating, as if the trigger is partially pressed.
The design of the V2 actuator has cable housing move around vs the actual cable itself if that makes sense. So if I've rearranged my cable housings and forgot about how the actuator works and don't leave enough slack the dropper will either get stuck open or it won't work at all until I get it situated nicely. It also kept pushing out the dropper post cable housing grommet in my frame.
Weird, worked fine for me. I did replace the cable when I switched over, I dunno if that matters, my cable was all fraided and I couldn't get that little barrel nut thinger on the cable.
Dang! yeah I never had that issue with the o-ring. maybe try lubing up that actuator rod? I considered it, but didn't feel like it. I never had the stickiness, but haven't been riding that much for the past few years due to kids.Thanks.
Nah, I've done the cable and housing many times, partly because that bullshit o-ring on the v2 actuator doesn't hold the cable in at all (I use a mini zip tie now). I'm going to try adjusting the cartridge nut at the top of the post next, otherwise I'm going to shorten the actuator rod or drill a small dimple into the topside of the v2.1 actuator.
This post is always sticky as shit, within 10 rides of a regrease. And the dust wiper nut unscrews itself 25% on each and every ride. I'll be spending 5 million dollars on the Revive once the wide version is available in 200mm.
Which manufacturer and model?A shock I sent to a shop for a rebuild, they just got back to me with “the compression valving is all blown” (w/pictures).
Hey guys, give Fox some slack. I am sure it is the first time it happened, ever. And as a small uprising company they don't have the leverage to afford proper engineering and testing.Just a DPS factory.
I was going to say "what is wrong in this video", but I figured I was probably going to get comments like, a bell, tires too big, fork too big, there might be bears, I got bags on my bike, etc.The Squish is just ‘the sizzle of the steak’.
it’s how you know it’s working.
that sucks. i bet they'd send you a replacement. i have to say, although they're not quite as grippy as my rf atlases, they've been pretty bulletproof, taking numerous rock strikes and just carrying on.One up alloy pedals that were 2 weeks old seized and left me to walk an hour in 100 degree temps. Should have stuck with the composites.
I only bought the alloys because I was worried how worn the plastic was near the end of the axle and didn't want to get stranded...
Hope f20One up alloy pedals that were 2 weeks old seized and left me to walk an hour in 100 degree temps. Should have stuck with the composites.
I only bought the alloys because I was worried how worn the plastic was near the end of the axle and didn't want to get stranded...
Westy, did that happen while riding or did you overtighten it?
Really? A lot of people locally running Renthal bars and stems and I've never heard any issues. You got some info to back that comment up?Renthal bad mmkay
Westy, did that happen while riding or did you overtighten it?
Really? A lot of people locally running Renthal bars and stems and I've never heard any issues. You got some info to back that comment up?
Serious questions bc I run that exact stem and that looks like it could
Thankfully it went when I was adjusting my headset. It went while I was literally tightening the bolt while twisting the wrench with my finger tips.Westy, did that happen while riding or did you overtighten it?
Really? A lot of people locally running Renthal bars and stems and I've never heard any issues. You got some info to back that comment up?
Serious questions bc I run that exact stem and that looks like it could ruin a persons day...
Looking at my broken stem a little closer it is obvious the steerer interface was milled via circular interpolation instead of bored/reamed. By the contact marks it looks like it wasn't very circular and it was bending a fair bit where the clamp bolt was, which probably caused a stress riser. I am guessing one of the machine axis had a fair bit of backlash. View attachment 159262
View attachment 159263
I saw that. I will wander out into the garage right now and take a look. Thanks!
As a kind of related aside I am heading up to OMIC this week. There are a number of folks there who would absolutely love geeking out on this topic.
Well,Westy, did that happen while riding or did you overtighten it?
Really? A lot of people locally running Renthal bars and stems and I've never heard any issues. You got some info to back that comment up?
Serious questions bc I run that exact stem and that looks like it could ruin a persons day...