DT comp, 32 in both wheels, like I say, the spokes seem to last about 2 years begot they start to fail. I think the mega stiff rim probably just puts more force on the spokes and leads to failure.
What have you broken on your bike recently?
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Do the spokes break, or the nipples? I am the first Derby customer, my rim and the spokes are still running strong.
The spokes, sometimes at the nipple, sometimes at the head, I think it's even happened in the middle of the spoke but that's rare.
I think the first load of spokes lasted 2 years, then I rebuilt, then I had to rebuild again on to boost hubs, those spokes only lasted a few months as the nipples were sitting too straight in the rim and the spoke was getting damaged at the nipple with the wider spaced hub flanges so they got rebuilt again with those dt nipples that can sit at an angle a bit easier, those spokes have lasted since probably mid 2017.
Always been built with brass prolock nipples, using a tension meter
I think the first load of spokes lasted 2 years, then I rebuilt, then I had to rebuild again on to boost hubs, those spokes only lasted a few months as the nipples were sitting too straight in the rim and the spoke was getting damaged at the nipple with the wider spaced hub flanges so they got rebuilt again with those dt nipples that can sit at an angle a bit easier, those spokes have lasted since probably mid 2017.
Always been built with brass prolock nipples, using a tension meter
With the tire mounted and pumped up?
Yeah, I generally recheck after installing a tyre.
These wheels got a lot of abuse, bike park laps and downhill racing (until I bought my dh bike a bit over a year ago)
These wheels got a lot of abuse, bike park laps and downhill racing (until I bought my dh bike a bit over a year ago)
My point, exactlyWrap it with glass.
Crash or just riding along?
I always leave the clamps on my levers loose enough that they will just rotate in a crash.
Edit: bolt fell out?
You are lucky that it isn't the front brake.
Wasn't even riding. Stopped for munchie/map consultation and the obviously not well enough supported bike went down.You are lucky that it isn't the front brake.
Only about two miles from the car and half of it was road. Granted, I'd planned about five more miles of trail.
C'est la vie.
Just bolts popped - easy fix. I needed to do a service/bleed anyhow...
Isn't that why you sent it to them? What's actually broken in there?
The shimz
I'll play... my second air cartridge died on my Oneup V2 210mm dropper. Oneup covered the cartridge under warranty and sent the updated v2.1 actuator which fixed the binding issues I was having with the v2 actuator.
What is the binding you were experiencing?
I received a v2.1 actuator but it doesn't seem to work correctly with my v2 post. It won't stop actuating, as if the trigger is partially pressed.
I received a v2.1 actuator but it doesn't seem to work correctly with my v2 post. It won't stop actuating, as if the trigger is partially pressed.
The design of the V2 actuator has cable housing move around vs the actual cable itself if that makes sense. So if I've rearranged my cable housings and forgot about how the actuator works and don't leave enough slack the dropper will either get stuck open or it won't work at all until I get it situated nicely. It also kept pushing out the dropper post cable housing grommet in my frame.
Weird, worked fine for me. I did replace the cable when I switched over, I dunno if that matters, my cable was all fraided and I couldn't get that little barrel nut thinger on the cable.
Thanks.
Nah, I've done the cable and housing many times, partly because that bullshit o-ring on the v2 actuator doesn't hold the cable in at all (I use a mini zip tie now). I'm going to try adjusting the cartridge nut at the top of the post next, otherwise I'm going to shorten the actuator rod or drill a small dimple into the topside of the v2.1 actuator.
This post is always sticky as shit, within 10 rides of a regrease. And the dust wiper nut unscrews itself 25% on each and every ride. I'll be spending 5 million dollars on the Revive once the wide version is available in 200mm.
Nah, I've done the cable and housing many times, partly because that bullshit o-ring on the v2 actuator doesn't hold the cable in at all (I use a mini zip tie now). I'm going to try adjusting the cartridge nut at the top of the post next, otherwise I'm going to shorten the actuator rod or drill a small dimple into the topside of the v2.1 actuator.
This post is always sticky as shit, within 10 rides of a regrease. And the dust wiper nut unscrews itself 25% on each and every ride. I'll be spending 5 million dollars on the Revive once the wide version is available in 200mm.
Dang! yeah I never had that issue with the o-ring. maybe try lubing up that actuator rod? I considered it, but didn't feel like it. I never had the stickiness, but haven't been riding that much for the past few years due to kids.
Just a DPS factory.
The Squish is just ‘the sizzle of the steak’.
it’s how you know it’s working.
it’s how you know it’s working.
I was going to say "what is wrong in this video", but I figured I was probably going to get comments like, a bell, tires too big, fork too big, there might be bears, I got bags on my bike, etc.
One up alloy pedals that were 2 weeks old seized and left me to walk an hour in 100 degree temps. Should have stuck with the composites.
I only bought the alloys because I was worried how worn the plastic was near the end of the axle and didn't want to get stranded...
I only bought the alloys because I was worried how worn the plastic was near the end of the axle and didn't want to get stranded...
that sucks. i bet they'd send you a replacement. i have to say, although they're not quite as grippy as my rf atlases, they've been pretty bulletproof, taking numerous rock strikes and just carrying on.
Hope f20
The bearings are sealed well enough to be used under water and the pins are indestructible.
No walking.
punctured my tire casing a mini-gap today. this is my second time doing it, in the same manner, this spring... which is odd - I almost never punctured the tread before, my tire problems were always pinch flats. I switched to DHR2 EXO+ with a Tannus Tubeless insert (from DHR2 DD casing). Both times I punctured at a knob where it meets the casing. I thought the casing under the tread was the same on DD and EXO+, that just the sidewalls were different. I'm wondering if the thread gauges or the number of plys are different.
Will have to research further.
Stans dart got me out today, but took a few tries and I had to nurse it out. Last time the dart didn't work, but I think I didn't install it properly. I made sure the "head" of the arrow was all the way in this time.
Will have to research further.
Stans dart got me out today, but took a few tries and I had to nurse it out. Last time the dart didn't work, but I think I didn't install it properly. I made sure the "head" of the arrow was all the way in this time.
Im a huge fan of the Stan’s Darts, I have seen them seal up some ridiculous things.
Westy, did that happen while riding or did you overtighten it?
Really? A lot of people locally running Renthal bars and stems and I've never heard any issues. You got some info to back that comment up?
Serious questions bc I run that exact stem and that looks like it could ruin a persons day...
Thankfully it went when I was adjusting my headset. It went while I was literally tightening the bolt while twisting the wrench with my finger tips.
I posted an additional picture and explanation a little farther down. I am a serial under-torquer. After this happened I went through all my bikes with a torque wrench and every bolt went at least a half turn to get to 4N.M.
I'd recommend checking your stem for the scuff patterns in the post I quoted below.
I saw that. I will wander out into the garage right now and take a look. Thanks!
As a kind of related aside I am heading up to OMIC this week. There are a number of folks there who would absolutely love geeking out on this topic.
As a kind of related aside I am heading up to OMIC this week. There are a number of folks there who would absolutely love geeking out on this topic.
Pretty straightforward IMO. Just because you can mill a hole doesn't mean you shouldn't finish it up with a reamer. Unless the machine is virgin tight, you are likely to have problems. It is a bit counter-intuitive but having scales on a machine will make it even worse. You get better positioning accuracy but your dynamic accuracy during an axis reversal goes to shit.
Well,
I sort of have a thing against brands that are all recognition no sustenance.
like enve wheels.....
In the case of renthal "ohhh sooo moto"
aluminum bars, heavyish but fine i guess.
carbon bars, overbuilt and the wrist i broke told me to give them away.
stems
somewhere here on ride monkey there is a picture of a racked rental integra dh stem, like very bent.
My friend put a stem just like westys on his bike and I was with him on its maiden voyage.
It turned and he crashed. He tightened it, It turned again, and he crashed again. At this point 20mins into a 45min climb I asked him you didn't grease this did you? He assured me he did not I checked and you can be gDamn sure it was over 4nm. I tightened it to "might break a bolt or pull a thread" level and it was fine.
I haven't inspected it as its not mine. but I suspect the finish probably looks like Westys.