what is all this fuss about bike weight savings???
- Thread starter freeriding
- Start date
Most riders are smaller than the empire state building
Also I'm pretty sure with a few small changes and a 36.5lb built he would have no issues on my current ride.
200lb dude here. I run whatever XC tubes are the cheapest on my DH bike. Haven't noticed the difference in number of flats vs other tubes.
I'd be a little nervous rocking the sixc cranks, but that's because I crash impressively and bend crank arms left and right.
Start shaving your sidewalls boys...
check about 14 mins in http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/member/Video-Greg-Minnaar-OneLife,22663/sspomer,2
check about 14 mins in http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/member/Video-Greg-Minnaar-OneLife,22663/sspomer,2
There are a bunch of compromises on there. Air rear shock, Boxxer WC, smaller rear rotor, cranks and XO drivetrain. But the bike is mostly...okay I suppose.
about ~6'7" 215. Road riding has kept me thin. Squats and moto have shrunk me about a half inch in the last year I think
.-Dan
Jesus come up here I will buy you some food my man!about ~6'7" 215. Road riding has kept me thin. Squats and moto have shrunk me about a half inch in the last year I think
-Dan
You have absolutely no idea how much food i'm eating lately. It's gotten to the point where eating is becoming a chore. People are looking at me funny when I eat with them.
From the stuff you complain about.
Boxxer WC - New Marzo, Bos and Fox weight around the same. Also yes boxxer wc is solid even if solo air is crap
Vivid air - change it for DB Air - it's a great shock. Performs better than my RC4
Thomson DM stem - it's actually quite heavy. You can go for a chunked stemcrown which is actually lighter and stronger
Protaper carbon bars - you can go with easton. No problems.
Sram casette - their casettes are really good
Though as you point out the bike is mostly good. Worst case scenario you add 1-1.5lbs and the bike is still very light.
I am still waiting to see an exact frame and suspension comparison with heavy and light build timed. With say 4-5 points on the trail. Maybe get the 2 bike build to vary by say 3-4 LBS and see how much faster a variety of riders would be on the bikes.
Everyone claims that it makes such a difference I bet the numbers would prove them wrong on a real DH trail....
Everyone claims that it makes such a difference I bet the numbers would prove them wrong on a real DH trail....
The difference will be there. The real question is how big is it and is it worth it. Though in most cases now it's fashionable to underestimate how your bike can influence your time.
Still I'd want to see 2 identical bikes with 4lbs weight difference raced on the same track by lets say 5 different riders. Choose parts that don't loose stiffness when lighter and that could be a nice test.
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You could just add ballast. That keeps all of the components identical.
The Vivid Air is incredible on the V10 frame. I switch the RC4 back on sometimes, and the Vivid Air is clearly better, in my opinion...
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Adding all 4lbs in one place would affect how the bike handles. It would also be probably not very stiff.
light bikes fall slower and roll faster
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SRAM cassettes are tragic!
unless of course there is some sort of performance gain to be achieved from all those grams you'll save when the individual sprockets bend and snap their teeth!
Tomas, your V-10 is lighter than Minnaars Wchamps build and he's reportedly running single plys..
unless of course there is some sort of performance gain to be achieved from all those grams you'll save when the individual sprockets bend and snap their teeth!
Tomas, your V-10 is lighter than Minnaars Wchamps build and he's reportedly running single plys..
Gay45
Same suspension, frame etc, size, cockpit? If no it's irrelevant
When You all will finally understand? Having 2-3-4 lbs lighter bike won't make You a fast(er) rider. It's all about Your skills, strength and mindset. Lets say You will drop those 3lbs of the bike. How much faster are You gonna be? 3sec on 3 minute track? It would be awesome, but You are still nowhere near times pro guys are making on 38-40lbs bikes. Why? Answer Yourself.
One more thing, 4lbs distributed through entire bike (handlebar,crank,wheels,suspension etc.) doesn't have the same effect on handling as having it mounted to the top tube -totally different situation (the moto tank example). Same goes to the backpack example, which affects YOUR weight distribution, muscle tension and so on.
One more thing, 4lbs distributed through entire bike (handlebar,crank,wheels,suspension etc.) doesn't have the same effect on handling as having it mounted to the top tube -totally different situation (the moto tank example). Same goes to the backpack example, which affects YOUR weight distribution, muscle tension and so on.
I strap weight to myself for pull ups and other stuff. I USED to weigh 50-60lbs more. Now strapping just 30lb-40lbs to myself feels crazy, even if it's evenly distributed with a weight-vest. Hard to keep from tipping over at times, etc. It does make a difference, the further from your body, the greater the difference. Remember, bikes don't move in straight lines and each pedal stroke is an acceleration. If it were physically possible to output constantly then you'd have something different, but each pedal stroke is an acceleration, bike accelerates, slows back down, accelerates, slows back down, you may not notice it, but that's why a few lbs can make a difference. If it's truly just a couple, then it may be hard to notice with other things, but it doesn't take too many for that to become noticeable IME.
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I have stiff to say but am too tied up thos weekend camping/enduro racing. will post next week about build specs.and comparisions.
This summer I'm using a V10.5 built to just over 32lb. My team mate is on my old V10.4 with the same fork and brakes and very similar parts but all cheaper and heavier. His is 36.5lb. I built his bike and did all the tuning and suspension setup on it. He's the same height and weight as me so our bikes are identical except for the 4.5lb weight difference and my suspension is a little firmer.
We've never timed sections on the two bikes but we have switched off a lot, even mid-run. The difference isn't drastic and I could comfortably race his bike, basically I did the last 2 years. However, we always both agree that mine feels a little faster and more nimble. You can more easily hit all your lines and it sheds speed entering a turn and accelerating out quicker. You feel fresh a little longer so you can push hard further. It just feels a little nicer and more effortless. This this translates into a little more speed and a little more fun.
Minor when you consider the price differences of our builds but the difference is there and anyone who rode both bikes would choose mine. So there you go, enjoy your 36-39lb DH bike but if circumstances or financial means put a 32lb bike in your reach take it!
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Here's my 32.2lb (Correction: 31.75lb) V10:
It's been going all summer with almost no maintenance. I consider it a burly and durable build. More weight could be dropped from the tires, fork, cassette, derailleur, shifter, and seat (and maybe post) but I'm happy with the performance of these parts.
Frame: V10.5 w/Vivid Air shock (faultless and love the tuning range, always in 10" except for dirtjumps or flowtrail races)
Fork: 2012 888 Evo Ti with prototype ATA air cart (similar to 2009 air cart but with bugs fixed)
Seat: Selle Italia SLR TT (soft, long, and with tall sides for grabbing with thighs)
Post: Thomson
Bar: Easton Havoc carbon
Stem: ODI
Grips: Titec Pork Rinds w/Hope end caps (comfortable and burly end protection for crashes)
Brakes: Formula The One w/Formula Organic pads & Kettle Cycles 203mm carbon rotors (carbon pads soon)
Shifter: Sram X9 9spd (old gen with bar wrap indicator)
Derailleur: Saint
Cassette: Sram 970 11-28 9spd
Chain: KMC X9SL
Chainring: Raceface Singlering 38T
Guide: MRP G2 carbon
Crank: SixC 165mm
Pedals: XTR Trail (tested back-to-back with M647 and couldn't tell a difference)
Hubs: Frt- Atomlab Pimplite, RR- DT 240s
Spokes: DT Aerolite w/alloy nips
Rims: Light Bicycle DH carbon (430g, 26mm internal width, and only $178ea)
Tires: Minion DHF 2.7" w/Notubes valves and sealant
There you go. For the deep of pocket or the industry connected a full-on 32lb DH bike.
It's been going all summer with almost no maintenance. I consider it a burly and durable build. More weight could be dropped from the tires, fork, cassette, derailleur, shifter, and seat (and maybe post) but I'm happy with the performance of these parts.
Frame: V10.5 w/Vivid Air shock (faultless and love the tuning range, always in 10" except for dirtjumps or flowtrail races)
Fork: 2012 888 Evo Ti with prototype ATA air cart (similar to 2009 air cart but with bugs fixed)
Seat: Selle Italia SLR TT (soft, long, and with tall sides for grabbing with thighs)
Post: Thomson
Bar: Easton Havoc carbon
Stem: ODI
Grips: Titec Pork Rinds w/Hope end caps (comfortable and burly end protection for crashes)
Brakes: Formula The One w/Formula Organic pads & Kettle Cycles 203mm carbon rotors (carbon pads soon)
Shifter: Sram X9 9spd (old gen with bar wrap indicator)
Derailleur: Saint
Cassette: Sram 970 11-28 9spd
Chain: KMC X9SL
Chainring: Raceface Singlering 38T
Guide: MRP G2 carbon
Crank: SixC 165mm
Pedals: XTR Trail (tested back-to-back with M647 and couldn't tell a difference)
Hubs: Frt- Atomlab Pimplite, RR- DT 240s
Spokes: DT Aerolite w/alloy nips
Rims: Light Bicycle DH carbon (430g, 26mm internal width, and only $178ea)
Tires: Minion DHF 2.7" w/Notubes valves and sealant
There you go. For the deep of pocket or the industry connected a full-on 32lb DH bike.
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He's saved 1/4lb with the carbon rotors, but he's 'spent' 1/2lb on the 2.7" DHFs.
Yup. Good braking and good traction. Weigh is a secondary thought when choosing my parts.
I've been told they don't provide enough stopping power for DH, maybe for road.
However, another company has shown carbon rotors during Eurobike - Protanium. I've seen the pic on printed German Bike Magazine, but I can't find on the web.
You do realize 3s on a 3 minute track is a great amount? Even if the real number is probably smaller. No one here thinks that a lighter bike will make them a pro rider. Just that it may make them faster and their ride more fun.
Though I know it's cool lately to claim it's 100% the rider 0% the ride. Even when it's not true.
If not even faster than at least less tired at the end of the run.
That means faster since you are left with more energy to mash those pedals
Well, no... cause, sometimes, more strength at the end of the run means crashing or not due to fatigue.
That's not because you had too much strength but because you got stupid and carried away
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damn, i got stroker aces for 80 a side (gonna see how they werk) and i still would have held out for those X0s.. =/
The Fox 40 only dropped 80g from my 2012 888 Evo Air (I previously overstated the bike's weight, it was about 31.75lb). At least now it's a nice round number. Still with the 2.7" DHFs and all full strength DH parts.