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What trail bike tire casings don't suck?

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
997
973
I got curious about the Hutchinson Griffus tires after Yoann raving about them, and grabbed a set from CRC for like $53/each. I went with the 2.5 ("front") model both F/R because I've heard that it's a fairly fast rolling tire, and figured I didn't need to go even faster. I ended up with their single ply casing (the CRC description was kinda vague as to whether it was 1x66 or 2x66). I haven't mounted them yet, but they look promising. Side knobs are crazy soft rubber, like MG. Center knobs are much firmer. Casing is very supple. The 27.5x2.5 actual weight was 1,040g (vs. 980 stated) and 29x2.5 was 1090g (vs. 1080 stated).
 

Cerberus75

Monkey
Feb 18, 2017
520
194

Trek/Bontrager's new Assegai/DHR2 tyres

I've never run the Bontrager tyres - anyone know if the casings are any good?
I've run an SE4 as a Rear tire in dry weather. Casing is better than EXO not quite DD if compared to Maxxis. They don't grip as well if things get slick. Wondering about how these would work.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,005
Seattle
I got curious about the Hutchinson Griffus tires after Yoann raving about them, and grabbed a set from CRC for like $53/each. I went with the 2.5 ("front") model both F/R because I've heard that it's a fairly fast rolling tire, and figured I didn't need to go even faster. I ended up with their single ply casing (the CRC description was kinda vague as to whether it was 1x66 or 2x66). I haven't mounted them yet, but they look promising. Side knobs are crazy soft rubber, like MG. Center knobs are much firmer. Casing is very supple. The 27.5x2.5 actual weight was 1,040g (vs. 980 stated) and 29x2.5 was 1090g (vs. 1080 stated).
They're not great on wet roots, but I like them pretty well in dry conditions. Their 2x66 casing is awesome. Pretty burly, but a lot more supple than Double Down or Super Gravity. They ride really well.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
997
973
They're not great on wet roots, but I like them pretty well in dry conditions. Their 2x66 casing is awesome. Pretty burly, but a lot more supple than Double Down or Super Gravity. They ride really well.
Nice. I'm in NorCal, so it's dust on crust most of the year. I find that really soft side rubber is amazing at finding grip on the hardpack here, so these look promising. And most roots locally are eucalyptus, which are so oily naturally that if they get even the slightest bit of moisture, ANY tire will slide off them.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,289
5,028
Ottawa, Canada
So I'm in MSA at the moment. Local shop has spesh tires. I've been reasonably pleased with the Butcher GRID Trail T7 as a replacement for my EXO+ DHR2. So I decided to see if they have any on stock.

They had last year's Grid, gripton, and it say "trail" on the box. Sales guy said it's the grid trail, and that last year's gripton is the same as this year's T7. So I bought it. But now I'm second guessing myself. My main concern is the casing. I really want to make sure I get this casing:


And not this one:

TL;dr: how do I know if the 2019 Specialized Grid tire I just bought is actually the Grid Trail version?
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,289
5,028
Ottawa, Canada
So I'm in MSA at the moment. Local shop has spesh tires. I've been reasonably pleased with the Butcher GRID Trail T7 as a replacement for my EXO+ DHR2. So I decided to see if they have any on stock.

They had last year's Grid, gripton, and it say "trail" on the box. Sales guy said it's the grid trail, and that last year's gripton is the same as this year's T7. So I bought it. But now I'm second guessing myself. My main concern is the casing. I really want to make sure I get this casing:


And not this one:

TL;dr: how do I know if the 2019 Specialized Grid tire I just bought is actually the Grid Trail version?
To answer my own question, I called specialized Rider care. They confirmed they are not the same casing. Not a fan of sketchy bike shops.
 

Cerberus75

Monkey
Feb 18, 2017
520
194
To answer my own question, I called specialized Rider care. They confirmed they are not the same casing. Not a fan of sketchy bike shops.
Everyone I ride with who use Specialized tires show threads through the sidewalls a few weeks after use and needs replaced in 2 month. Vs at least 3 with DD Maxxis
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,289
5,028
Ottawa, Canada
Everyone I ride with who use Specialized tires show threads through the sidewalls a few weeks after use and needs replaced in 2 month. Vs at least 3 with DD Maxxis
I've not had any luck with their old casings either. But the new Grid Trail seems different. I'm willing to give them a try.

I was hoping the move from DD to EXO+ w insert. But EXO+ has not proven to be sufficiently durable: I've been puncturing the tread. My theory is because it's made from 120tpi casing.

Grid Trail seems to have a similar construction, but with 60tpi. Compound and knob layout are fine for my purposes, so if they're marginally more durable, I'll be happy.
 

marshalolson

Turbo Monkey
May 25, 2006
1,770
519
200+ lb rider in dry rocky trails here.
Returned to the ultimate rear tire last season and haven't had an issue since.

DHF 2.5 w/ DH Casing in Dual Compound (<- DC is key for it to roll fast enough to hump around).
Pairs perfectly with an Assegai exo+ upfront.

SO MUCH EASIER that wrestling with inserts, gives much better protection and damping vs DD, only a modest weight gain vs DD and about the same as an exo+ with insert.

I have bought them on maxxis site as well as ebay, both for pretty reasonable prices (about $60ea).
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,479
4,719
Australia
DHF 2.5 w/ DH Casing in Dual Compound (<- DC is key for it to roll fast enough to hump around).
Out of interest - you ever try one of the Dual Compounds in the wet, on rocks and roots? Are they hopeless or nah? I don't love sticky slow rolling rear tyres but I've run harder compounds in the past that were a bit spicy in bad weather.
 

marshalolson

Turbo Monkey
May 25, 2006
1,770
519
Out of interest - you ever try one of the Dual Compounds in the wet, on rocks and roots? Are they hopeless or nah? I don't love sticky slow rolling rear tyres but I've run harder compounds in the past that were a bit spicy in bad weather.
Sorry to miss this! I would say if the tire/rock/root is wet, then it is less grippy than the Maxx Terra compound. I live in the desert, so it's not really a factor except for 5 seconds after a stream crossing, but yes for sure, if this is something you care about, then this tire isn't for that.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,852
9,557
AK
So back from the edge, I guess I'm light and the EXO works fine for me most of the time. For sure for the hard riding I did at the park I wanted the DD, maybe for a few hard hits otherwise, but definitely didn't need it at the other spots, no matter the trail type. There generally wasn't that much rocky **** where you might cut the tire easily. I also felt like the Assguy didn't grip roots as well as a DHF. Running 3C maxgrip. Maybe it was just me or just the stiff casing that wouldn't conform as well as the lighter one. I crashed twice at Raging River, once starting down the first wet rooty trail. Not bad crashes, just the typical ice-roots and that slowed me down a bunch on the rest of the trail that first run. The second one was a similar ice root/rock, but it was much later in the day and everything was a lot drier, so it was a bit of a false alarm for the rest of the trail. But if I do park, any park, I should be on the DD for sure. I've ripped/sliced the EXOs at the local parks, but they are great for trail (for me) and I don't see the point in lugging around a bunch more casing all the time.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Just slapped a big Betty super trail on the back and having it in hand checking it out.
It's heavier than the old trail stars, I'd put it on point to maxxis dd maybe a little thicker...
Going to run them in the m9....I had a trail star on before was too light but it's replacement is a nice upgrade in sidewall and tread thickness.
I'll rock it and see I have super gravity mounted as well...trail stars I destroy they are too light....
The super trail feels more like a foldable dh casing but not quite as heavy...
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,479
4,719
Australia
There's no way you should be on super trail man. I just put a Super Gravity Big Betty on my bike and it's about as light as I'd go. And I'm a dainty ballerina in comparison to you
 

boylagz

Monkey
Jul 12, 2011
558
61
SF bay area
Been eyeing the BB front and rear for gen. Norcal use, not the full on dh ones, but the 2.4 Super Trail soft, 1200g. I have the WTB Vigilante fr and rr, light case fr and tough case in the back, pretty damn good tires, but you do feel the weight.
 
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bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Been eyeing the BB front and rear for gen. Norcal use, not the full on dh ones, but the 2.4 Super Trail soft, 1200g. I have the WTB Vigilante fr and rr, light case fr and tough case in the back, pretty damn good tires, but you do feel the weight.
I just loaded up super trail and they are heavier duty than the old trail stars...I think they will be fine for me. I did BB rear I had rode it already for a short period and as a rear it's an amazing tire..great braking, good rolling and corners awesome it holds line on outer lugs really well ..

Haven't used it as a front I have always stayed MM on front...I did use the old BB on front years ago and wasn't super impressed with it even as a rear..but the new version I love...I ordered my kid one for the rear as well...
The m9 is BB/MM so Is the 951 and my kids bike will be the same...I have them ordered up...

Yeah they aren't light but it's a great alternative to a dh casing at 1300+g...the sidewalls are noticeably thicker than the old trail...
 

boylagz

Monkey
Jul 12, 2011
558
61
SF bay area
I just loaded up super trail and they are heavier duty than the old trail stars...I think they will be fine for me. I did BB rear I had rode it already for a short period and as a rear it's an amazing tire..great braking, good rolling and corners awesome it holds line on outer lugs really well ..

Haven't used it as a front I have always stayed MM on front...I did use the old BB on front years ago and wasn't super impressed with it even as a rear..but the new version I love...I ordered my kid one for the rear as well...
The m9 is BB/MM so Is the 951 and my kids bike will be the same...I have them ordered up...

Yeah they aren't light but it's a great alternative to a dh casing at 1300+g...the sidewalls are noticeably thicker than the old trail...
The older Schwalbes were like either full on DH or just freakin xc, snakeskin n stuff. Im stocked on like 5 or 6 Maxxis tires that Im gonna use 1st after these WTBs wear out, I got time, lol. The betties look like Kaisers from Conti, pretty uniform looking center. Good times to ride bikes.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
997
973
Anyone have a reasonable rule of thumb on how much to increase tire pressure going from no rocks to rocks (and running heavier casings at the same time)? My local trails don't have any rocks larger than gravel, so I'm used to just running whatever I need for sidewall stability.

I went to Downieville over the summer for the first time in a couple years and flatted/cracked a front rim running my usual setup (21 F EXO+ / 24 R DD). Second lap put a fresh DD up front and bumped up to 24/26, still heard one rim strike, but it felt really ping-y. I'm normally like 170 lbs geared up to ride, figure maybe 174-175 for backcountry riding with a Camelbak.

I've got another trip planned up there next month and would like to not destroy rims. I've got both DH and DD casings. I was thinking I'd run 22 or 23 front with DD, and 25 rear with DH.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,479
4,719
Australia
I normally only vary by 1, maybe 2 psi either way of what I'm used to. Even the smoothest tracks can have a sharp edge here or there so I don't go up by much when rocky-ness (?) increases. I'll drop a bit if I'm expecting oblique wet roots to stop the wheel bouncing off on cross-camber or whatever.

Big pressure changes feel too weird - I'd rather be comfortable and adjust lines a little bit or focus on riding light over a short stabby rock section.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,289
5,028
Ottawa, Canada
Anyone have a reasonable rule of thumb on how much to increase tire pressure going from no rocks to rocks (and running heavier casings at the same time)? My local trails don't have any rocks larger than gravel, so I'm used to just running whatever I need for sidewall stability.

I went to Downieville over the summer for the first time in a couple years and flatted/cracked a front rim running my usual setup (21 F EXO+ / 24 R DD). Second lap put a fresh DD up front and bumped up to 24/26, still heard one rim strike, but it felt really ping-y. I'm normally like 170 lbs geared up to ride, figure maybe 174-175 for backcountry riding with a Camelbak.

I've got another trip planned up there next month and would like to not destroy rims. I've got both DH and DD casings. I was thinking I'd run 22 or 23 front with DD, and 25 rear with DH.
My formula is usually "rim strike + 1 psi" until no rim strikes are felt. Sounds like you should stick to 24/26 at the very least...
 

jstuhlman

bagpipe wanker
Dec 3, 2009
16,624
12,916
Cackalacka du Nord
Anyone have a reasonable rule of thumb on how much to increase tire pressure going from no rocks to rocks (and running heavier casings at the same time)? My local trails don't have any rocks larger than gravel, so I'm used to just running whatever I need for sidewall stability.

I went to Downieville over the summer for the first time in a couple years and flatted/cracked a front rim running my usual setup (21 F EXO+ / 24 R DD). Second lap put a fresh DD up front and bumped up to 24/26, still heard one rim strike, but it felt really ping-y. I'm normally like 170 lbs geared up to ride, figure maybe 174-175 for backcountry riding with a Camelbak.

I've got another trip planned up there next month and would like to not destroy rims. I've got both DH and DD casings. I was thinking I'd run 22 or 23 front with DD, and 25 rear with DH.
i'm same weight and that sounds about right to me. i run DD front and rear.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,001
1,693
Northern California
Anyone have a reasonable rule of thumb on how much to increase tire pressure going from no rocks to rocks (and running heavier casings at the same time)? My local trails don't have any rocks larger than gravel, so I'm used to just running whatever I need for sidewall stability.

I went to Downieville over the summer for the first time in a couple years and flatted/cracked a front rim running my usual setup (21 F EXO+ / 24 R DD). Second lap put a fresh DD up front and bumped up to 24/26, still heard one rim strike, but it felt really ping-y. I'm normally like 170 lbs geared up to ride, figure maybe 174-175 for backcountry riding with a Camelbak.

I've got another trip planned up there next month and would like to not destroy rims. I've got both DH and DD casings. I was thinking I'd run 22 or 23 front with DD, and 25 rear with DH.
I find I can usually bump up the casing and keep the tire pressure the same assuming I'm running the same tire model/width.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,852
9,557
AK
Anyone have a reasonable rule of thumb on how much to increase tire pressure going from no rocks to rocks (and running heavier casings at the same time)? My local trails don't have any rocks larger than gravel, so I'm used to just running whatever I need for sidewall stability.

I went to Downieville over the summer for the first time in a couple years and flatted/cracked a front rim running my usual setup (21 F EXO+ / 24 R DD). Second lap put a fresh DD up front and bumped up to 24/26, still heard one rim strike, but it felt really ping-y. I'm normally like 170 lbs geared up to ride, figure maybe 174-175 for backcountry riding with a Camelbak.

I've got another trip planned up there next month and would like to not destroy rims. I've got both DH and DD casings. I was thinking I'd run 22 or 23 front with DD, and 25 rear with DH.
I’m that weight and when i ride harder I need like 29/30 in mixed terrain with exo. With DD I can get away with more like
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
997
973
I normally only vary by 1, maybe 2 psi either way of what I'm used to. Even the smoothest tracks can have a sharp edge here or there so I don't go up by much when rocky-ness (?) increases. I'll drop a bit if I'm expecting oblique wet roots to stop the wheel bouncing off on cross-camber or whatever.

Big pressure changes feel too weird - I'd rather be comfortable and adjust lines a little bit or focus on riding light over a short stabby rock section.
Yeah, I'm trying not to make such a drastic change as last time, since it didn't feel great. Unfortunately, the trails there are so fast and full of granite and dust that adjusting lines is just a dice roll. The one that got me last time I never even saw.

I find I can usually bump up the casing and keep the tire pressure the same assuming I'm running the same tire model/width.
I'd heard that as well, which is why I snagged the DH casings. I'm just having second thoughts as to whether I'd rather run a heavier Assegai DH up front at normal pressure vs. Assegai DD at a couple psi higher, knowing the DH casing itself will be a lot stiffer so may not feel that different from a higher pressure DD.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,001
1,693
Northern California
Yeah, I'm trying not to make such a drastic change as last time, since it didn't feel great. Unfortunately, the trails there are so fast and full of granite and dust that adjusting lines is just a dice roll. The one that got me last time I never even saw.


I'd heard that as well, which is why I snagged the DH casings. I'm just having second thoughts as to whether I'd rather run a heavier Assegai DH up front at normal pressure vs. Assegai DD at a couple psi higher, knowing the DH casing itself will be a lot stiffer so may not feel that different from a higher pressure DD.
For comparison sake, I run full DH Assegai's front and rear at Downie. I still get a ping or two, but no flat spots.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,565
24,182
media blackout
So far my Michelin DH34's have not sucked....
mine haven't either, but i've gotten more cuts in them in 4 days of riding than i have in minions that have seen a full season. none that have resulted in pressure loss, but....... odd for sure.

i'm running mine with cushcore front and rear. still hear the rims pinging off rocks.
 

Inclag

Turbo Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
2,750
439
MA
mine haven't either, but i've gotten more cuts in them in 4 days of riding than i have in minions that have seen a full season. none that have resulted in pressure loss, but....... odd for sure.

i'm running mine with cushcore front and rear. still hear the rims pinging off rocks.
Race version I presume? Funny you mention that, but my tires have had tons of superficial cracking throughout, yet I've experienced no torn knobs or significant leaking, although I top off pressure every week or so to be safe.

Not to be pedantic, but something seems off. Like there is accelerated moisture evaporation from rubber or breakdown of oils causing the rubber to crack. I've been wondering about presenting as a warranty issue, but haven't for 2 reasons. First is that the tires are working and haven't self destructed. Secondly, Michelin's website is les poo poo.