Yeah, they're burly. I'd love it if they made a slightly narrower, faster rolling version to use as a rear tire, but with the same casing and side knobs.
What trail bike tire casings don't suck?
- Thread starter Kanye West
- Start date
They made an "enduro rear tire" but it's this pile of bullshit:You should suggest it.
Maybe a 1.9 version.
I'm pretty sure they just got lucky with the Wild Rock'r2, because all other evidence suggests that they have no idea what they're doing when it comes to designing a tread pattern.
I'm pretty sure you are right. I can't think of a decent Michelin mt bike tire in the last 20 years?They made an "enduro rear tire" but it's this pile of bullshit:
I'm pretty sure they just got lucky with the Wild Rock'r2, because all other evidence suggests that they have no idea what they're doing when it comes to designing a tread pattern.
Yeah, the Wild Rock'r2 is seriously the only one. And somehow it's awesome.
WTF, I have wild racers on my 29er hardtail, like em a lot for what they are, but they look nothing like that.They made an "enduro rear tire" but it's this pile of bullshit:
I'm pretty sure they just got lucky with the Wild Rock'r2, because all other evidence suggests that they have no idea what they're doing when it comes to designing a tread pattern.
Those race'r enduros are God awful, but with how good the rock'r is and with the unflattabilty factor it is almost tempting to try one.
Anybody thrash a set of e*Thirteen tires yet? I just bought a set...
I think @Nick is thrashing some now.
I did and I loved them. Took them off to try (and currently still riding) HRIIs.
Gave the e13 tires to @Adventurous to try out and he seemed to love them too!
Then they got swiped along with his brand new bike.
I found them slow rolling on climbs but just awesome traction. 9/10, would bang again.
HRII's are what are on the bike now, but QBP was out, so I tried the e*thirteens. Looked like a good comparable tire...
I have ~500-600 miles on an e13 tire, 400 in the front & the rest before that in the rear. The tire is stellar. Fast roller for XC races it ain't but it tracks and grips in the wets well. Will bang again, it is my go to front tire now. Gotta figure out a good matching rear tire now. 
Running the dual compound e13 on the rear at the moment, love it for anything heading down but it doesn't like muddy climbs, spins out real easy.
Unreal grip on wet rocks and roots in the local grade5 trails.
Update: Butcher Grids slashed sidewall on the rear. I think I might have gotten....half the life out of it? Not sure on that. The Orange Peel stuff actually sealed it only losing half of the pressure or so, which is actually impressive to see. Was running 28psi to start with. Sharp contrast to the Stans garbage which is basically like throwing a medicine ball at a leak in a rowboat once it's more than 24 hours old.
I'm going to have a pretty impressive stack of useless goddamn tires stacked in my garage here soon.
I'm going to have a pretty impressive stack of useless goddamn tires stacked in my garage here soon.
Interestingly, this happened in a deep sandy flat corner where I had the bike laid over. At the end of a 4 mile rough steep downhill, second lap. Preceded by 2 laps on an 8 mile descent that was much faster but much more trivial. Must have been some shit buried in the sand that it tagged.
ATTENTION: Wild Rock'r 2 sidewalls can be a bit weepy when set up tubeless. I was having a bitch of time keeping air in the rear tire and finally tracked it down to the sidewalls. Of course, I can't remember if I put any sealant in when I mounted them up.
Last edited:
I have one of the tubeless WR'r 2s... no weeping at all... infact seem to hold pressure for weeks and weeks.
I dunno if you Euros get different models available, but this is one of the "tubeless ready" versions. So I'm just warning people...
I dunno if you Euros get different models available, but this is one of the "tubeless ready" versions. So I'm just warning people...
Well, I didn't lose any appreciable psi overnight... so I'm going to say you're spot on.
Ha, You can fart into your wheel and set the bead on those WR'r 2s.Well, I didn't lose any appreciable psi overnight... so I'm going to say you're spot on.
you guys know shoe goo seals pretty large sidewall/tread cuts. I'll cut up tubes and glue bits of rubber from the inside to fix big sidewall cuts. I've also had luck with 3M silicone sealer (the stuff you'd seal up the edges of your sink with)
https://www.amazon.com/Shoe-GOO®-Adhesive-3-7-Black/dp/B004PBOJE8
Just clean the inside of the broken tire with alcohol (then drink some) glue it up, wait a day and it's good to go.
Last edited:
My technique is to:
- Sew the cut up with dental floss.
- Shoe goo over both sides of the stitching.
- Put a normal tube patch over the inside of the cut.
- ????
- Profit
It definitely wasn't the bead. I soaped the ever-living $Hit out of it looking for leaks. Hell - I even soaped the shit out of the tread, looking for a stupid thorn or glass or something.
It wasn't until most of the soap had dripped off that the many lines of tiny bubbles appeared on the sidewall - in weird vertical columns. All over the sidewall... it was def odd - but my wife's shitty Nobby Nics did that for weeks - I had to fuck with those things endlessly to get them to hold air. But I believe that Schwalbe made those sidewalls out of onion-skin paper.
The vulcanized tire patches from teh auto parts store work really well too. As a bonus, I believe that those patch kits are cheaper than a tube of shoe goo. Drawback - you probably can't fix your shoes with the patch kits.
Aggressor DD 27.5 2.3
http://shop.maxxis.com/c/bicycle_mountain_aggressor
I have them on my bike front and rear (29er in DD) and love them. Will bang again.
http://shop.maxxis.com/c/bicycle_mountain_aggressor
I have them on my bike front and rear (29er in DD) and love them. Will bang again.
I live in an urban cesspool. Literally, the most polluted stretch of waterway on earth is 2 blocks down from me. I say this because it's the sort of place where if you leave stuff out in front of your apartment it is likely to get snatched up quickly, no questions asked. Recently I left a mixed pile of mountain bike tires out there as a way to clear out some needed storage space. Everything from warn, beloved Maxxis DHR/F DH tires, to the oft-mocked Kenda Nevegal, to a pair of Schwalbe something-er-others (Dirty Dans? Slippery Steves? Phone-It-In Phils?) I picked up cheap that were so vile, so like I put a pair of grease-coated slicks on my bike that I stopped the only ride I did on them and went home angry and pulled them off immediately. Folks, that whole pile of beat to shit tires vanished, and only the once-ridden Schwalbe tires were left behind and ended up in the shitcan.
If you really can't find a DD rear, then a Maxxis Super Gravity tire might do the trick (you're in a dry environment right?, maybe try the Rock Razor SG for the back tire, I think their only other SG tires are Hans Dampf and Magic Mary, neither of which are ideal for a rear tire), and then there's also the TCS-Tough casing from WTB: breakout, trailboss of vigilante. I have a vigilante waiting to be mounted, but it's not quite wet enough for it yet.
I can't tell, are you bragging about all this?
Put a how-to up on your instagram.
Slaughter Grid has been my go-to rear tire for a while on the trail bike now, but I had a weird thing happen to one the other day. Landed a hip jump fairly cleanly (I thought, at least). Tire burped, made a horrible sound, and as I rode out the landing the tire was rubbing on the frame. "Shit." I thought, I've trashed the wheel. Nope. Rim is straight. No sign of any tire damage, and the bead is sat evenly around the rim. Somehow, the carcass of the tire itself had gotten distorted. Deflating and resetting didn't solve the problem. No sign of any damage on the outside of the tire, just a weirdly shaped tire.