I would like to fully rebuild it and would like to be able to know which manual for which year model to follow. Thanks.
What year model is this Boxxer?
- Thread starter Ozzer
- Start date
That's a 2002 Boxxer.
thanks mang.
I hope there's a manual or schematic floating in the wah-wah-web somewhere. Time to put on the latex gloves.
I hope there's a manual or schematic floating in the wah-wah-web somewhere. Time to put on the latex gloves.
BTW just to save you some time.....
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/Boxxer%20Service%20Guide.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/01RSBoxxerOwnersManual.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/02BoxxerOwners_English.pdf
Your fork is either a 2001 or 2002, but either way it's all pretty much the same stuff inside (01 I don't think had the external low-speed adjuster). The first link is the rebuild guide, second one is a 2001 manual, last link is a 2002 manual. Have fun.
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/Boxxer%20Service%20Guide.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/01RSBoxxerOwnersManual.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/02BoxxerOwners_English.pdf
Your fork is either a 2001 or 2002, but either way it's all pretty much the same stuff inside (01 I don't think had the external low-speed adjuster). The first link is the rebuild guide, second one is a 2001 manual, last link is a 2002 manual. Have fun.
Cool. I went there as well. Just need to confirm the oil volume as the oil chart on their website does not cover 02 models. Thanks again.
I have new decals if you so desire.
How much do you want for the decals? Maybe I shld PM you..
Uhm, the reb cartridge is prolly broken/blown. I have a retarded question: Is it feasible to just run heavier weight oil on the right leg to slow down the rebound? Does (10w40-50) work? Seriously, I just don't want to pour any more $$$ on this clapped out fork.
Uhm, the reb cartridge is prolly broken/blown. I have a retarded question: Is it feasible to just run heavier weight oil on the right leg to slow down the rebound? Does (10w40-50) work? Seriously, I just don't want to pour any more $$$ on this clapped out fork.
NOOOO!!!!! Never use ANY motor oil for your fork. It's a really bad idea, not only can it potentially eat through and ruin your seals & wipers, non-fork oils can begin to foam in forks which leads to air in the cartridge system which in turn leads to reduced (or no) dampening. You can use a heavier weight oil to help slow down the rebound, but make sure you buy fork oil (availible at your LBS or local moto/auto parts store), and I wouldn't go over 10wt with a Boxxer.
If you do want to replace the internals and can't find parts (which may be the case with a 2002), Risse Racing does offer a cartridge rod upgrade kit which goes for $99.95. I know some european guys were making something similar a while back, but I can't for the life of me remember who they were or find anything about them.
If you do want to replace the internals and can't find parts (which may be the case with a 2002), Risse Racing does offer a cartridge rod upgrade kit which goes for $99.95. I know some european guys were making something similar a while back, but I can't for the life of me remember who they were or find anything about them.
Nah on those old boxxers I've seen a lot of people running 15-20wt in the rebound side to get enough rebound damping. Probably worth playing with different weights. I agree about using real fork oil though, even cheaper stuff will do the job if you're not too concerned about it.
I think I need 70wt on the right leg bec the fork is worst now than it was before overhaul. Like it preferred to be gunky and in a POS condition.
Out of frustration, I was like torquing the axle a bit tight and then this...
Could magnesium lowers be welded?? Maybe I should tap a thread and get a Shocktower bolt on booster as an arch.
Out of frustration, I was like torquing the axle a bit tight and then this...
Could magnesium lowers be welded?? Maybe I should tap a thread and get a Shocktower bolt on booster as an arch.
how do u crack an arch by tightening the axle? i think you should put down your tools and never touch another bike.
Um yeah, at this point, time for a new fork. Magnesium can be welded but honestly by the time you pay for it to get done and rig up some sort of reinforcing arch brace, you'll still be left with a fork that is very prone to failure and for just a little more money you probably could have picked up a nice used fork. I'd say ditch that Boxxer (or make it into shop art like I do) and find something new.
Following the advise from a fellow monkey, The Sluck (and he's an engineer), he welded the broken arch. He's not sure whether magnesium alloy can be heat treated. I hope the axle aligns properly.
walk away from that death trap.
and as i own one of these forks, i'd love to know how tightening the axle could lead to a crown break.
and as i own one of these forks, i'd love to know how tightening the axle could lead to a crown break.
I think you are good as long as you got it welded. I heard from a friend that was at a National back in 2002 and he said that same thing happened to some pro's bike and it was welded back with no problems. Well as long as you get it aligned okay.
That's good to know.
I mean I already dropped $300 for the new stanchions, new seals, new reb cart and 15wt oil I burnt $40 worth of gas to get from a Moto store, it better work.
We'll see this weekend...
Well, Sluck had the front wheel in between his legs doing the parking lot test of stiffness of the Boxxer bec he's used to the Monster T. I guess he was twisting the fork while I was tightening the dropout bolts. Then when he let it go, the arch just schnapped and my front rotor started rubbing on the caliper.
OZ. Let's make Sluck take the maden ride on his weld job. I'm sure he'll back his welding skills 
Sometimes, I don't know why you knock his work.I'm sure he'll back his welding skills
He once drilled out the internal wall of the 888 lowers so he can increase the oil volume without raising the height.
As forward thinking as it may seem, he didn't realize that there was actually an external rebound adjustment to achieve what he intended the fork mod to do.
Enginner's oversight..
wow- so have you actually ridden that fork now?
thank is some janky stuff...
thank is some janky stuff...
yup, made the stem flex a lot.