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Discussion in 'Cross Country, All Mountain & Trail Riding' started by NorCalHub, Apr 8, 2015.
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In tough situations like the one you're in, I turn to this trusty adage:
Light, strong, and rootbeer: pick two.
It says KOM, it must be the king of the mountain.
is that a Lefty hub?
I could destroy that wheel in...two miles.
The lightest wheelset is definitely a front wheel with the guts removed.
And the best wheel has an axle, I am pretty sure. Ahhh, choices.
go to weight weenies and ask them
Nick, you win! It is a lefty hub, good eye. I'm riding the wheels today, should put them through their paces as I will be pre riding the TDS Enduro ranch today to break in my new 2015 gear. The rear wheel laced up at exactly 2lbs. Project 321 with the I-9 torch XD Driver....I'm pretty psyched and nervous at the same time. I cant imagine these wheels lasting but here goes!
What happened to the "best/strongest" part?
Can it fit a 3" gazzalodi?
Does it have an integrated fanny pack?
Well, I definitely put the wheels through their paces and so far I am very impressed. The rear wheel was 2 lbs exactly and I dropped a pound of rotational weight off my ride! I'm still in awe and wondering when this is going to get bad but so far... wow. Very happy. I hope this doesnt bite me in the arse in the worst way.
I am also real curious about the new Derby Rims....anybody riding those yet? I have one friend that is and he says they are so stiff it makes the ride harsh? Thoughts?
Your friend needs these then...
Took a year to think that one up?
There are better wheels there nowadays
Sadly my Derbys still require a lot of pedaling.
Your mom helped me
Come on, mom jokes stopped getting a ride out of us in middle school
You make it too easy.
so does your mom?
Strongest carbon and nicest feeling wheels I've rode are these: http://www.bouwmeester.com.au/products/tammar-650b
Ridden Enve's, Mavic, Light bicycle, Stans prior to that. So tough and just have a really nice mix of lateral stiffness and compliance.
From there website:
No 26... NO CARE!
I see, $2700US for rims that are 20-30g heavier than my nexties. Do they come with any extra hookers?
I do believe there are still advantages to double-wall designs.
Been smashing the shit out of some Stans ZTR Flow EX's all season on my Wreckoning, still going strong and true.
I had a weird sound on my megatrail. Couldn't find it. Looked at my derby and it was basically straight. Rode it after tightening and greasing a bunch of stuff. Noise still there. So decided to true up the wheel. I found three spokes with no tension at all on the gauge. And a bunch of loose ones. I had done drop offs and jumps into rock gardens with the loose spokes. But nothing really extreme. That wheel is straight as can be. Surprised me.
Yah. Crabon wheels, in my limited experience, will stay true through it all...and then they crack.
I can't smoke that crack can I?
It costs about the same as a good crack addiction.
And then you still ride them 10 miles downhill to the bottom, crack and all.
Srsly. I don't even know how long mine were cracked. And even after I found out I rode them a few times until the new rim showed up.
What are said advantages?? Buy once cry once. I've had the chinese open mould wheels (and enves) and it makes no financial sense as they simply don't hold up to aggressive riding/racing running the same pressures and ride quality as these. Not saying you should buy them - that's your choice dude. However thread entitles "best" enduro wheels. In my experience there is none better than this. Period.
Comparing Nextie, LB, Zelvy etc to BC (and Enve to some respect) is like comparing a Formula Ford to a Formula one sure they both go around a circuit but one is the ultimate and priced accordingly.
Well, stiffness is a function of surface area, for one. These Chinese probably know a hell of a lot more about crab-on than you think. Still many hookers or shock upgrades I could have bought over envy or some overpriced rim. The only constant in business is change, someone will always come along that will figure out how to do what you do: cheaper, quicker, better, etc...
Majority of stiffness comes from spokes. However I think stiffness isn't the main issue. Well tuned characteristics is more important in my opinion. So having vertical compliance in the rim gives more traction (ie faster) and lateral stiffness for efficient power transfer.
Even a quick google of Enves previously the ultimate wheel in the market show voids in the layup which cause weakness and failure. See black dots in pic below. I have been lucky enough to check out cross sections from the factory and there just simply aren't any voids - it's not possible with their process. There are a couple of pics on their website.
Again the question is do you want the cheapest or the best??? If you want the cheapest you should probably post up a new thread...
Lightest and strongest is relative to the riders skill and terrain. Run the lightest rims that are durable for you and provide the rigidity you want. As you crack rims go heavier until you don't.
I know it’s old but I never saw it till today and maybe I read jeremy_2640 wrong but I’ll leave this here...