I have seen it listed as 1.5" and 1-9/16", WTF??? I measured the steerer tube and it's 1-9/16" but every stem listed on Ebay for the lefty says it's 1.5". Will a 1.5" stem from Race Face, FSA etc fit a lefty? I called Cannondale, the chick who answered the phone didn't know. Called my local dealer, they were cluless. Called up FSA, they said it fit a 1.5, not answering my question and Race Face was closed, whats the deal?
Whats the real size of the Cannondale lefty stem??
- Thread starter trialsmasta
- Start date
They are different, but I think Woodman makes a stem that will work on the Headshock, and Cannondale makes a bunch of different sizes as well.
Yup - 1.5 it is. Useful if you have an old 1.25 steerer, get a .25 inch shim and you have a range of stems to choose from.
shimming a stem? 
It worked a treat.lovebunny said:shimming a stem?
Okay I finally spoke to a tech person at cannondale. a 1.5" stem will not fit. A 1.5" headset will, don't ask me how, so buy a 1-9/16" stem.
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Cannondale should have their offices burned for just this reason.
Why, because they adopted a standard for their bikes at least 10 years BEFORE there was a 1.5" standard?JRB said:
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1 9/16" is not a standard. There is no reason to have a giant head tube on an XC bike.peter6061 said:
headshok stem size? its the square root of -1
JRB said:
there is when all the internals of the suspension fork are in the steerer.
Are you suggesting that Giant use another manufacturer's head tube on their XC bikes?JRB said:
Exactly.jonKranked said:there is when all the internals of the suspension fork are in the steerer.
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Then Manitou is stupid for adopting 1.5, instead of 1 9/16" head tube. It's just Cannondale is renowned for proprietary things. This one may well be Manitou. Not an issue, as I won't be buying one. Nothing wrong, but I'll get my stems anywhere.
they each used the size they did for a reason. cannondale - to accomodate fork internals in a steerer tube. this was in the early 90's when DH bikes had 5" of travel. manitou used 1.5 because it was strong enough to make a single crown fork with 7-8 inches of travel.
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I'm with you, but 1 9/16" wouldn't add any weight to speak of, and you would accomodate an existing model. It's stupid that these guys have to all be different.jonKranked said:
Um, the 1.5 standard headtube is the same diameter as Cannondale's. However, the standard has to be different from Cannondale's spec anyway because it was determined that the minimum cup depth on Cannondale's headsets wasn't deep enough to be acceptable.JRB said:
So, a new standard was introduced. Why are they stupid for not adopting one random manufacturer's spec instead of creating a new one from the ground up? There was a reason that Cannondale's spec wasn't sufficient, so changes would have to be made anyway.
And this isn't some kind of proprietary Manitou standard anyway, the 1.5 standard was developed in association with a lot of companies.
You buy a Lefty fork, you gotta buy a Lefty stem. And a Lefty hub. But it's your choice to buy into that.
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So basically we're back to blaming Cannondale. I don't see an issue with a 1.5 head tube, but if the cups aren't deep enough, then what does a CD free ride bike use?binary visions said:
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some how mine came up like that too....Changleen said:
What?JRB said:
I'm not blaming anyone. Cannondale is entitled to design their own suspension system, and if that includes special stems and headsets, that's their business. It's the consumer's choice to buy into it.
Shimano I have a bit more of a problem with because there are so few options when it comes to drivetrain parts, but there are a lot of suspension systems and a lot of frame manufacturers, nobody is forcing this on you.
Cannondale's bikes all conform to the 1.5 standard now when it comes to their headtubes. The cups weren't dangerously short, it was just decided that the standard should move forward with deeper cups.
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binary visions said:
I meant collectively blaming. I wasn't singling anyone out.
What is so proprietary about Shimano's drive trains??? They were here before Sram and Sram chose to have a different ratio. I don't know about Campy, but I don't believe it works with Sram either. I do think the bolt pattern stuff was stupid, but outside of that, who cares? The Octalink worked better than ISIS, so I still don't see a problem.
saint rear derailler: bolt-on, requires special crap. the lock ring disc rotors are proprietary to shimano (special hubs/ rotors), although companies do make 6 bolt adapters for them now.
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Let's throw rocks at Truvativ for the Holzfellar stuff too then.
Why did we need someone to blame?
Last I checked, which was 37seconds ago, they do still exist.DHS said:
I don't really understand the Cannondale hatred on this forum. I have owned 3 Cannondales and never had a problem with them. I ride hard and beat on my bikes too...its not like I baby them. They are producing some really great bikes right now that are getting nothing but great reviews. They use some propiertary stuff but so do most manufactures...almost all of them use specially tuned rear shocks now, and the Saint stuff is completely proprietary. Same with Truvative...you want to use some cranks? Then you have to use thier Bottom Bracket.
The left is a great fork and is stiffer than just about anything out there. If you want one then you know that you have to use their hubs, etc.
You guys bash the hell out of Cannondale but what about other companies that are completely proprietary...look at a Canfield or Brooklyn Drive train? No one complains about them...and I think a 100% proprietary drive train would be more of a hassle than a fork...
And concerning the 1.5 thing...Marzocchi and Rock Shox are coming out with 1.5 tubes soon as well.
Tom
The left is a great fork and is stiffer than just about anything out there. If you want one then you know that you have to use their hubs, etc.
You guys bash the hell out of Cannondale but what about other companies that are completely proprietary...look at a Canfield or Brooklyn Drive train? No one complains about them...and I think a 100% proprietary drive train would be more of a hassle than a fork...
And concerning the 1.5 thing...Marzocchi and Rock Shox are coming out with 1.5 tubes soon as well.
Tom
We need somone to blame because I got a hell of a deal on the bike and now I can't find the stem I want. Life can be so rough :mumble:
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No hate for Cannondale. It just seems logical to be consistent. It would be super nice for people to run Leftys on their XC bike. If I bought one, I know the shop would support it. It just didn't make sense. With more facts, it's a little more clear to me.
Tap it on hard with a hammer and the 1.5 will probably fit. Be nice and tight too.*
*I am kidding... just in case..
*I am kidding... just in case..
Um, the only thing proprietary about a BMW drivetrain is the cogs on the spindle through the swingarm pivot, they have a special mounting pattern. everything else is plain ol' off the shelf parts. profile cranks: stock - although the long spindle can be hard to find (which is why it is included w/ the frame along with crank arms); left side cog: stock, you can get them at any well supplied bike shop (with bmx stuff, road shops wont have it, but why would you go to a road shop if you're riding a brooklyn?); the chains on both sides of the drivetrain: stock, the one is just really long. you use a standard cassette, derailler (any one you want). as far as the rear wheel is concerned, its a 10x135 hub which by DH standards is not considered proprietary - lots of companies make them. the frame comes with the spacers and axle you need to fit the floating brake arm. the only thing 'special' about it is that you just have to dish the wheel slightly differently, which is uh, pretty dang easy if you ask anyone that can true wheels.Tom Church said:
also, for all the little spacers, cogs, bolts, etc that are proprietary - if they break/bend etc all you have to do is call Doc and he will take care of you. BMW has the best product support in the industry, and should be viewed as a role model by other companies.
take the 1.5 stem to a machine shop and have them hone out the 1/16.. big deal.
Excluding cost, not wanting to visit the dentist might be a convincing reason not to do somthing like that.fiddy_ryder said:
BTW, you can change the steerer to a 1 1/8 tube. Just cruise to the Cannondale forum at mtbr to see some pictures.
But BV has a point. The stock steerer is non-standard, and it is debatable how much advantage you gain from 1/8 of an inch. Not that there was plethora of 1.5 stems anyway.
The Lefty fork and necessary Lefty hub has a big advantage, but like a Maverick fork with a 24mm hub, you have to be willing to deal with the downsides.
EDIT: 1/8 inch made a huge difference on an one inch steerer. But another 1/8 is probably not so important on a 1.5 steerere.
But BV has a point. The stock steerer is non-standard, and it is debatable how much advantage you gain from 1/8 of an inch. Not that there was plethora of 1.5 stems anyway.
The Lefty fork and necessary Lefty hub has a big advantage, but like a Maverick fork with a 24mm hub, you have to be willing to deal with the downsides.
EDIT: 1/8 inch made a huge difference on an one inch steerer. But another 1/8 is probably not so important on a 1.5 steerere.
Octalink DID work better than ISIS, but it wasn't an open design so the choice was either pay Shimano to be compatible with them, or don't be compatible.JRB said:
A 4-bolt pattern across their lineup, and a different 4-bolt pattern for their XTR cranks? Nice
If you want to run their Saint rear derailleur, you can't just use any hub. If you want to run a Saint derailleur and hub, you're stuck with their rotors.
I'm not really bagging on Shimano, I'm just pointing out that you're getting irritated with Cannondale for having a proprietary design but there are a thousand different frame manufacturers, and a half dozen fork manufacturers to choose from, so there are lots of options. You want mountain bike drivetrains? You've got Shimano and SRAM.
cost to enlarge a hole 1/16 of an inch? your joking right? and trip to the dentist, please tell me your not talking about the part potetial failing and causing you to bust your grill.. were talking 1/32 of in on each side, thats not enough to make a big block of aluminum like a stem fail.trialsmasta said:Excluding cost, not wanting to visit the dentist might be a convincing reason not to do somthing like that.
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sanjuro said:
Hey mathman - 1/8th + 1 1/8th is not 1 1/2. It's 1 1/4. I'd say 3/8ths inch is pretty significant.
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binary visions said:Octalink DID work better than ISIS, but it wasn't an open design so the choice was either pay Shimano to be compatible with them, or don't be compatible.
A 4-bolt pattern across their lineup, and a different 4-bolt pattern for their XTR cranks? Nice
If you want to run their Saint rear derailleur, you can't just use any hub. If you want to run a Saint derailleur and hub, you're stuck with their rotors.
I'm not really bagging on Shimano, I'm just pointing out that you're getting irritated with Cannondale for having a proprietary design but there are a thousand different frame manufacturers, and a half dozen fork manufacturers to choose from, so there are lots of options. You want mountain bike drivetrains? You've got Shimano and SRAM.
I'm with you, bro. I'm interested to see if they change Saint up any, or if they are convinced it is better.
A lefty is not a fork, dammit. But please continue, this is fun.
Just so I'm clear, the c-dales have a "standard" 1.5 headtube but the steerer is 1/16" bigger? If that's true you shouldn't be able to use a 1.5 headset because the steerer won't fit through it and the races won't fit right. The cups would fit the frame but everything else will be wonky.
Just so I'm clear, the c-dales have a "standard" 1.5 headtube but the steerer is 1/16" bigger? If that's true you shouldn't be able to use a 1.5 headset because the steerer won't fit through it and the races won't fit right. The cups would fit the frame but everything else will be wonky.