[bansheefr]

I'm looking to pick up a Blk Mrkt Riot this winter and want to swap over as many parts from my current Giant STP as possible. My current wheels are cheap/heavy/solid Azonic Outlaws with a quick release rear, which is no good for horizontal drops. I'm juggling the following options:

1) Buy a new 26" wheelset with 10x135 singlespeed rear hub, bolt-on. Suggestions please.
2) Buy a new 26" wheelset with 10x135 geared rear hub, bolt-on. Suggestions please.
3) Buy Nashbar SS 10x135 hub for $50… Lace it up to the Outlaw rim, will probably need to buy new spokes, lots of effort, will most likely cost more time/money than I want to spend.
4) Convert Azonic rear hub to 12mm through axle with provided parts. Dremel, drill, modify brand new Riot frame.
5) Any other suggestions welcome.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[greengreer]

if you can convert your existing qr azonic hub to 12mm then why not but a 10mm reducer axle like this: http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/atomlab-bolton-axle-adapter-12mm-to-10mm.html
seems like the cheapest method.

 

[bansheefr]

Haha yeah... After I posted I started thinking that they had to make something like that. Turns out they do.

Still open for wheel suggestions... I don't plan on keeping the Outlaws forever.

edit: Cheaper option http://www.oneal.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=619

 

[quickneonrt]

the momentum axle works fine, have it done it.
new wheel set Hope pro2 SS/trials rear hub 36h laced to 721 or Atomlab pimp lite

 

[bansheefr]

the momentum axle works fine, have it done it.
new wheel set Hope pro2 SS/trials rear hub 36h laced to 721 or Atomlab pimp lite

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the momentum axle the other day, it may not be the lightest but it will get the job done.

I am partial to the Hopes/721's since I run that setup on my DH bike. Anyone have any experience with the allen bolted axle versus a standard nut to solid axle? Would you have to run chain tugs?

 

[jonKranked]

Hadley, Profile, Hope. Stealth if you're willing to pony up for whats arguably the best hub on the market, but costs more than a King.

 

[JGill]

Profile/P-lites with nutted axle

 

[quickneonrt]

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the momentum axle the other day, it may not be the lightest but it will get the job done.

I am partial to the Hopes/721's since I run that setup on my DH bike. Anyone have any experience with the allen bolted axle versus a standard nut to solid axle? Would you have to run chain tugs?

Here is what I did I am running the Hope ss laced to a WTB Laser Disc FR 36h on the rear of my pink. I changed the allen bolts out and used a longer regular bolts on each size and it works great. Just took the wheel to Home Depot and matched the thread pitch, and got the longest bolts that would thread in all the way on both sides, it is metric. Only problem is the head is an off size so i use a cresent wrench to tighten and loosen them. I think it might be 16mm but i don't have that size box wrench. 17mm wrench is a little loose and 15mm is to small. I should really take the bolt to Sears and get the right size box wrench.
You can run tugs if you have the room. I don't have the room so i can't but the setup i have works fine. just i little more effort when setting chain tension.

 

[quickneonrt]

Hadley, Profile, Hope. Stealth if you're willing to pony up for whats arguably the best hub on the market, but costs more than a King.

Stealth never heard of it. Do you have a link or website?

 

[jonKranked]

Stealth never heard of it. Do you have a link or website?

http://www.trueprecision.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Instead of using pawls, I've been told that they use what's called a "one way locking bearing". Basically its like a cartridge bearing that will spin freely in one direction, but in the other direction it is ramped to immediately lock up.

 

[ServeEm]

wow those are hella expensive. $1000 wheelset, madness. I guess if you were a racer that'd be an investment. But for an abusive hack as I am it'd be a grand wasted in under a week.

 

[jonKranked]

wow those are hella expensive.

Seriously. W00dy on here has one and loves it. Dead silent too.

 

[bansheefr]

Here is what I did I am running the Hope ss laced to a WTB Laser Disc FR 36h on the rear of my pink. I changed the allen bolts out and used a longer regular bolts on each size and it works great. Just took the wheel to Home Depot and matched the thread pitch, and got the longest bolts that would thread in all the way on both sides, it is metric. Only problem is the head is an off size so i use a cresent wrench to tighten and loosen them. I think it might be 16mm but i don't have that size box wrench. 17mm wrench is a little loose and 15mm is to small. I should really take the bolt to Sears and get the right size box wrench.
You can run tugs if you have the room. I don't have the room so i can't but the setup i have works fine. just i little more effort when setting chain tension.

Great idea and thanks for sharing... This may be a deal maker since I really want to go with the Hope hubs, but wasn't sure about the allen bolted'ness on horizontal dropouts. Ideally I would like to avoid using chain tugs.

 

[cmc]

Atomlab Pimp-SS 2009 26" rear wheel, 10x135/32h blk

BTI part #: AL-3839
vendor part #: 1WHL851B
hole: 32h
rim: Pimp 32mm black
spoke: triple butted
size: 26"
nipple: Torque alloy
spacing: 135mm
f/r: rear
hub: Pimp-SS 1sp 10mm bolt-on


•Hand built with Pimp hubs and Pimp rims (choose black or white rims)
•Hubs are black, triple butted spokes are white, Torque nipples are red
•All have International-Standard 6-bolt disc mount and Atomlab rim strips
•Singlespeed rear has small 30x1mm threading to fit 13-15t freewheels
•Convert 12mm through-axle to 10mm bolt-on axle with BTI #AL-2893
•1193g F20x110 / 1610g R10x135 / 1363g R12x135 / 1678g R12x150 / 1263g R-SS




Halo Combat-2 SS 26" disc rear wheel, 36h black

BTI part #: HL-1185
vendor part #: WHHAC6SK
hole: 36h
rim: Combat-2 36mm black
spoke: 14g black
size: 26"
nipple: brass
spacing: 135mm
f/r: rear
hub: Halo disc Singlespeed 10t black


•Affordable, heavy duty disc brake ready wheelset
•Updated version with new rim profile, new black hubs and black spokes
•Looseball disc hubs with IS 6-bolt disc rotor mount, 8/9sp HG freehub or singlespeed hub with 10t driver
•Choose black anodized or white powdercoated Combat-2 eyeletted rims (white is either fully powdercoated "disc only" or has machined brake track, allowing use with disc or rim brakes)
•1350/1555g 26" F/R





Halo DJD 26" disc rear wheel, 48h - black

BTI part #: HL-1279
vendor part #: WHHASD6K
hole: 48h
rim: SAS 36mm black
spoke: 14g black
size: 26"
nipple: brass
spacing: 135mm
f/r: rear
hub: DJD SS 10mm bolt-on black


•Purpose built one-speed cassette driver rear wheel for Park/Jump use
•Forged 6061 aluminum shell, 5 sealed cartridge bearings (2 main body, 3 cassette body)
•Includes 11 tooth (1/8") steel cog, ideal for compact drivetrain setup
•3 double wide pawls ensure positive drive
•International Standard 6-bolt disc rotor mount
•10mm nutted axle can be adapted to 14mm frames using separate adapters (BTI part number HL-3159)
•Halo SAS 36mm wide Double Joint System rim with double eyelets
•1760g 26"

 

[jonKranked]

why oh why does a 48 hole 26" wheel even exist? There's no tandem Clydesdale downhill class in USAC!

 

[cmc]

why oh why does a 48 hole 26" wheel even exist? There's no tandem Clydesdale downhill class in USAC!

maybe it exists because it's actually a good idea and not just trend-following.

i'll take the un-trendy position and say that if you're hard on wheels--either because of casing jumps or stair gaps etc--48h is going to be stronger and keep your wheel more in true than 36h or 32h, all other factors being the same.

maybe it's just 90's nostalgia, but for the entire period of the mid-80's to early 00's, 48h was the standard on 20" wheels for all park/jumping/street (non-racing riding). 20" wheels going to down to 36h is okay, because smaller wheels are inherently sturdier. but with 26"s you need that lateral strength. i have broken way more spokes and had to re-true wheels way more on 26"s than i ever did on 20"s.

12 spokes doesn't weigh that much. and don't tell me about rotating weight !! . . it's still not nearly as much difference as just switching to a lighter tire.

 

[quickneonrt]

If you want light and. strong stick with the Hope pro 2 ss and 721 in 36h. Light strong and less expensive the Hope laced to the WTB laserdisc freeride those are the welded ones not the cheaper pinned ones.

 

[jonKranked]

cmc - you'd have to be pretty brutal on wheels if you keep toasting 36holes! Of the guys I know that ride street/dj (on 26"), none of them are so hard on wheels to need the extra strength of an additional 12 spokes.

and i agree with you, 12 extra spokes and nips don't weigh that much. Based on my experience, 48 hole wheels are just a b*tch to lace!