not sure if a socket will work, but if you take the c-clip off you can use any old adjustable wrench no problem. if you don't take the c-clip off it gets tricky threading this back in, as everything has to align just right:
who's holdn out for new boxxer?
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the most difficult part comes when u try to put the rebound adjusters back in...it's a huge pain in the ass. I found that threading in a crank bolt and pulling the rebound damper cartridge into the hole made it much easier to thread in the rebound adjusters (of course after removing the crank bolt. sorry for the confusion...just got back home and i'm drunk and lonely
For those who haven't overhauled (taken the lowers off, cleaned and replenished the bath) on the 2010 Boxxer (WC if it makes a difference), would anyone write a brief explanation or post a link to instructions. From what I've heard it isn't all the complicated for the mechanically inclined. Does Sram have a tech manual for the 2010 Boxxer yet?
yes. you'll need to get the 203mm post-mount adapter
cool thank you for the info
so the one i have on my current boxxer is what an IS mount or what is it.
it's a <2010 Boxxer specific mount.
1- prepare the fork to work on it
2-with something sharp and thin or a c-clip remover (sorry don't know the exact name of it in english) remove the clip that holds the beginning-rebound knob in place...this is a bit of a pain. then remove both knobs.
3- you will see the end of the rebound adjuster assembly. it has 2 flat sides.with an adjustable wrench (or a 22mm?) remove it.
4-take a crank bolt and thread it in halfway, instead of the rebound adjuster assembly. this is just like with the previous boxxer...just tap the bolt so the damper cartridge becomes loose from the lowers.
5- remove the bolt on the left leg halfway and tap it...just like the previous boxxer.
6- do ur greasing magic like the previous boxxer
7- put the lowers back in...take your crank bolt and try to carefully thread into the damper cartridge. this is quite difficult to do with the adjuster assembly so I found it easir to do with the crank bolt....just tighten it in so the cartridge gets "locked" again in the lowers
8- now it's sort of fixed there and you can thread in the rebound adjuster assembly.
9- the left leg is the same as the previous boxxer
10- put on the rebound knobs and don't forget the c-clip to hold the beginning-rebound knob
I know this isn't a really detailed guide and there may be better ways to do it...but this worked for me.
Thanks a bunch Yeti. hopefully it works without any hangups.1- prepare the fork to work on it
2-with something sharp and thin or a c-clip remover (sorry don't know the exact name of it in english) remove the clip that holds the beginning-rebound knob in place...this is a bit of a pain. then remove both knobs.
3- you will see the end of the rebound adjuster assembly. it has 2 flat sides.with an adjustable wrench (or a 22mm?) remove it.
4-take a crank bolt and thread it in halfway, instead of the rebound adjuster assembly. this is just like with the previous boxxer...just tap the bolt so the damper cartridge becomes loose from the lowers.
5- remove the bolt on the left leg halfway and tap it...just like the previous boxxer.
6- do ur greasing magic like the previous boxxer
7- put the lowers back in...take your crank bolt and try to carefully thread into the damper cartridge. this is quite difficult to do with the adjuster assembly so I found it easir to do with the crank bolt....just tighten it in so the cartridge gets "locked" again in the lowers
8- now it's sort of fixed there and you can thread in the rebound adjuster assembly.
9- the left leg is the same as the previous boxxer
10- put on the rebound knobs and don't forget the c-clip to hold the beginning-rebound knob
I know this isn't a really detailed guide and there may be better ways to do it...but this worked for me.
Do you still us the same 15 weight oil as before? same cc? what sort of grease would you recommend for the inner seals?
yeah same treatment as with the previous boxxer. for the inner seals i used some redrum. slick honey is also good. you'll notice the difference.
cheers¨!
it's actually a 185 to 203 adapter. You probably already have it. It should have been in the box with your codes.
you misquoted my quote. he asked me what the adapter on his current boxxer is. any boxxer prior to 2010 (<2010) used a boxxer specific mount. he now needs a 203 post mount which is more of a standard, and yes it should have come with his codes if he bought the 203mm version.
yeah, you are correct
after putting new oil in the fork and greasing the seals the fork feels worlds better. i cant wait to try it out tomorrow and compare it to today's ride.
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sr--71
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...i´m really interested in a comparison between the new Boxxer & the actual Fox 40!
Perhaps someone had the possibility to ride these forks against eachother & can post a few lines here!
SR--71
Perhaps someone had the possibility to ride these forks against eachother & can post a few lines here!
SR--71
For what it's worth, I did the tear down/re-lube tonight, having not owned a boxxer for 5+ years and never done any service on one. It took me a grand total of 45 minutes, and that includes removing the front brake and wheel, removing the fork from the bike, full service on the fork, and putting everything back together. It was a super easy process.
Big thanks to Yeti for the tips!
Big thanks to Yeti for the tips!
not going to get a new one, will wait til next year so they'll finalize any kinks peeps will find through the season....my .02!!
Just going to through this out there, I understand the custom tune, I get you want to make sure.....B ut seriously your paying 1100 dollars for a fork. It BETTER damned well work the way it is supposed to as you open the box. This is how these get so Effing expensive in the first place. Lets just take the crap service we get, and fix stuff as we get it. We write it off with...I am just makign sure.... Or I dont run it stock anyways.....If you dont want to run something stock, get something cheaper, and custom tune it, If you Seriously dont trust what your buying, and you have a personal "need" to rebuild and service it before you even install the thing.....Maybe, just maybe, this isnt the product for you.
Ok, I am done ranting about that now. I am going to bed, I will dream of riding the local tommorow on my not stock 66 which works just friggin great.
P.S. I know the new Boxxer is alto lighter than my 66, but I dont have 1100 bones to drop on a fork.
Ok, I am done ranting about that now. I am going to bed, I will dream of riding the local tommorow on my not stock 66 which works just friggin great.
P.S. I know the new Boxxer is alto lighter than my 66, but I dont have 1100 bones to drop on a fork.
Dont what ever you do go out an buy a brand new MX bike then....jeez you think your angry now
I just put mine on I would call it more of a spring click than a knock but its minimal not too loud. I havnt ridden on the trail yet as I just put it on an hour ago but even with the rebound wide open it seems very slow anyone else's feel like this when brand new? Ending stroke rebound def I can tell a difference but the beg. stroke I cant feel much between full open and full close. I am getting 24 clicks though.
Can anyone else confirm that weight (for the team)? That's a fair bit heavier than claimed, I was hoping it might be closer to the current WC so that WC owners could switch to a (cheaper) team without much of a weight penalty, but it looks like that mightn't be the case.
Also that's the second story I've heard about the rebound being too slow, someone else said it was pretty lacking in "pop". That's a bit of a shame considering that forks generally work best setup fairly fast in terms of rebound.
I'm sure someone will figure out how to fix it internally soon enough.
I was hoping for the same thing as you as far as the weight goes. My 08 wc with short crown and maxle 6lb1oz. 2010 team with short crown 6lb8oz with the med spring. (I think I may need the soft spring im 155# and its pretty stiff but I want to wait for it to break in just to make sure) so not really the same weight but all well it bunny hops and mannuals better so I can't say it feels like the front is much heavier. I will give a detailed ride report tomorrow night, Im really hoping that it just needs to be broke in. I know my 08wc started to rebound faster after a day of riding. Good thing is if I can't figure it out I will be able to have SRAM take a look at it at the US Open in 2 weeks.
I just remembered that I have 2.5 weight oil in the 08wc and I think they come spec with 5wt. 2.5wt oil may be a better option for this fork as well.
buying new fork is stupid, you buy them super cheap off some poser who never rides bikes for like 600-800bux. Then rebuild/tune it to your desire.
However, 1100-1400 bux isn't that bad considering monster Ts were how much back then? plus inflation etc. I'm willing to bet the real value of Boxxer is much lower today.
However, 1100-1400 bux isn't that bad considering monster Ts were how much back then? plus inflation etc. I'm willing to bet the real value of Boxxer is much lower today.
Mine was pretty much spot on with the claimed weight using our digital scale. I don't have any real riding on it to comment on rebound.
The "Don't spend $1,100 on a fork if you can't trust it to be right from the factory" rant is pretty funny. Do you not face your headtube and bottom bracket if its not done from the factory too? For years I remember having to pull apart and fill Marzocchis to the proper oil levels, that company can't do wrong though. "I never rebuilt my zoke' for the 5 years i've had it, the internals look like a car commercial about engine sludge, but it nevar bottoms." I guess when you produce the highest end performance coil fork on the market for significantly less money than the competition, people will have to find something to be bitter about. I know I would have some resentment.
Thanks for that, so spot on with the claimed weight (2950g I believe) including an uncut steerer I presume? That's pretty good.
Also, I'd say most of us agree with your second paragraph, just didn't want to justify some of the moronic posts with a response.
Also, I'd say most of us agree with your second paragraph, just didn't want to justify some of the moronic posts with a response.
Yes, don't tell a professional race team would not check their suspension when they get it from the manufacturer I am sure this hold true in sports other than mtb.
I rode the new WC Boxxer yesterday and was really impressed. I had fairly low expectations as my 08 WC Boxxer was dialled in, and I thought the new one would take a while to break in. Right away I noticed improved line holding, stiffness and better damping. The adjustments do take a while to sort out.
So I rode my team today and the rebound (beg stroke) did speed up as the fork broke in but still no where near what I think it should be. When riding it I can't really say it seems that slow although in the slower stuff I would like it a little faster. The ending stroke seems to be pretty good.(the faster I went the better it felt)
When comparing it to my 08 WC I will say it has a ton more compression and when you push on it, its almost like "whoa thats stiff" but it doesn't really seem that overly stiff when I am riding it on the trail. Like somone else said it does hold lines better specially in fast rough terrain. It also feels better turning because the fork doesn't dive and I know many people had there 08s tuned so they don't dive but I could never really get mine at a place where it wouldn't dive and was as plush as I wanted in the rocks, and this fork seems to handle both well. I had 6 clicks of low speed compression and it doesn't bob and braking into turns feels really good.
When jumping I found that the fork doesn't blow through much travel. I can't say I noticed on my old one that it went through the travel easy, but with this one it seems easier to clear jumps because the fork doesn't soak up the lip as much. BUT it is still quite plush on the rocks like I already said.
It is noticeable that the stansions are 35mm now. It seems like it added the perfect amount of stiffness.
Now I can't say there is nothing to complain about because there is something going on with my beg stroke rebound. Also I put the soft spring in after a few runs because I can't get it through full travel. It goes through the travel when the spring is out but even with the soft spring and the bottom out all the way off I still only managed to go through 6 3/4in travel, but I am getting 30% with the soft spring.... The trails I was riding on I typically used about 7.5in of travel on my 08 WC. So with as good as it felt I think it will be even better once I get it dialed so I can use closer to 8in.
If someone could just confirm for me that their beg stroke rebound is much slower at 24 than 1 I would appreciate it.
When comparing it to my 08 WC I will say it has a ton more compression and when you push on it, its almost like "whoa thats stiff" but it doesn't really seem that overly stiff when I am riding it on the trail. Like somone else said it does hold lines better specially in fast rough terrain. It also feels better turning because the fork doesn't dive and I know many people had there 08s tuned so they don't dive but I could never really get mine at a place where it wouldn't dive and was as plush as I wanted in the rocks, and this fork seems to handle both well. I had 6 clicks of low speed compression and it doesn't bob and braking into turns feels really good.
When jumping I found that the fork doesn't blow through much travel. I can't say I noticed on my old one that it went through the travel easy, but with this one it seems easier to clear jumps because the fork doesn't soak up the lip as much. BUT it is still quite plush on the rocks like I already said.
It is noticeable that the stansions are 35mm now. It seems like it added the perfect amount of stiffness.
Now I can't say there is nothing to complain about because there is something going on with my beg stroke rebound. Also I put the soft spring in after a few runs because I can't get it through full travel. It goes through the travel when the spring is out but even with the soft spring and the bottom out all the way off I still only managed to go through 6 3/4in travel, but I am getting 30% with the soft spring.... The trails I was riding on I typically used about 7.5in of travel on my 08 WC. So with as good as it felt I think it will be even better once I get it dialed so I can use closer to 8in.
If someone could just confirm for me that their beg stroke rebound is much slower at 24 than 1 I would appreciate it.
To be honest I haven't noticed a difference in performance yet.
I am very happy with those enduro seals however.My beginning stroke rebound adjuster knob doesn't seem to have clicks???
It has about 4 turns of adjustment which do affect the damping but no noticable click.. anyone else?
As for the spring knocking noise, I'm getting a slight knocking but not entirely convinced its the spring, sounds like there is a small clicking noise coming from my mission control side on initial movement of the fork.
Bedsides that the fork works really well, the stock red spring seems to give reasonable sag (25-30%) even though I'm 15stone.
I'm running quite alot of compression:
3 turns lsc
4 clicks hsc
12 clicks ending stroke rebound
2 turns beginning stroke (because I've not got clicks!) - 12 clicks now I've sorted it
And 3 turns bottom out aswell.
That sounds reasonable? I got myself pretty lost trying to dial it all in at my local woods one day, thinks its gonna take a while to get it perfect.
1st race weekend on them they were bottoming once every run (on the lip of a jump but it was a pretty harsh lip)
And lastly because my teams are oem forks supplied with new bike so I've no spare springs.. Does anyone have a spare blue spring they don't need? Want to give it a try. Nowhere has the forks or spares in the uk yet!
Update:
I've just removed and lubed the lowers..... highly recommend doing this, one leg was fine, the other was dry.
Sorted the rebound adjuster clicking too, the steel compression sleeve for the ball bearing wasn't seated correctly.
It has about 4 turns of adjustment which do affect the damping but no noticable click.. anyone else?
As for the spring knocking noise, I'm getting a slight knocking but not entirely convinced its the spring, sounds like there is a small clicking noise coming from my mission control side on initial movement of the fork.
Bedsides that the fork works really well, the stock red spring seems to give reasonable sag (25-30%) even though I'm 15stone.
I'm running quite alot of compression:
3 turns lsc
4 clicks hsc
12 clicks ending stroke rebound
2 turns beginning stroke (because I've not got clicks!) - 12 clicks now I've sorted it
And 3 turns bottom out aswell.
That sounds reasonable? I got myself pretty lost trying to dial it all in at my local woods one day, thinks its gonna take a while to get it perfect.
1st race weekend on them they were bottoming once every run (on the lip of a jump but it was a pretty harsh lip)
And lastly because my teams are oem forks supplied with new bike so I've no spare springs.. Does anyone have a spare blue spring they don't need? Want to give it a try. Nowhere has the forks or spares in the uk yet!
Update:
I've just removed and lubed the lowers..... highly recommend doing this, one leg was fine, the other was dry.
Sorted the rebound adjuster clicking too, the steel compression sleeve for the ball bearing wasn't seated correctly.
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