[Knuckleslammer]

Whos the hayes expert in here? I have the Mag HD's on a bike. I put new pads in them and rebled the brakes. Now they kinda work too good, as in the front wheel wont move. I pushed the pistons in, let some fluid out. Rebled them, same problem. Any ideas?
Knuck

 

[Supa8]

Had to do the same thing Friday night. Take the pads out and push the pistons in a second time. After the second time mine stayed put where they needed to be Vs too far out.

 

[Knuckleslammer]

Had to do the same thing Friday night. Take the pads out and push the pistons in a second time. After the second time mine stayed put where they needed to be Vs too far out.

Did you have to take out the bleed screw on the handle lever part, or loosen the nut on the caliper?
I tried that, but after I put them back on, a few squeezes and they were the same, too tight and locked up. Think I need to do it again? Think there might be too much fluid in them?

Knuck

 

[Supa8]

Maybe too much fluid? Did you have your levers dialed back more to the bar when you bled them? I bleed mine with the lever a little further out then I normal run them. This way you have some adjustment and they are not so close to the rotor when I pull the lever in.

Its never perfect but it works for me.

 

[Dartman]

Maybe too much fluid? Did you have your levers dialed back more to the bar when you bled them? I bleed mine with the lever a little further out then I normal run them. This way you have some adjustment and they are not so close to the rotor when I pull the lever in.

Its never perfect but it works for me.

The lever reach adjustment has no effect on the positon of the piston in the master cylinder.

Knuckle, you may need to repeat your above procedure. Make sure the caliper pistons are completely seated. Put an old pair of pads in (you'll fvck up the new ones if you don't) and use a flat screwdriver in a twisting motion to spread 'em. Then insert something to keep them from moving back together. I kept the plastic inserts that came with the brakes for this purpose. It sets the gap perfectly. Then re-bleed the brakes.

The reservior in the master cylinder is a rubber bladder and may be too full.

Mike

 

[Knuckleslammer]

Thanks man, that makes perfect sense. What if I don't have the plastic inserts, should I use like 2 business cards on each pad between the pad and rotor? Do you think that would work, or do I need something thicker? So I have to take the pads out, push the pistons all the way in, put something in between the pads and rotor and rebleed?

That correct?

Kevin

 

[Knuckleslammer]

Oh I gotcha, use the old pads so I don't score the pads with the screw driver. Do you suggest taking the pads out and pushing the pistons in. Also, do you have to loosen the caliper bleed screw before pushing the pistons in?
Thanks for the help man/men.
Knuck

 

[Supa8]

lever adjustment trick worked for me? Oh well.

Knuck how hard ( force ) is it to push the pistons back? If its a real b!tch to push them back its a good clue you could have too much fluid.

I use a 10mm wrench closed end to push them back one at a time.

 

[Zark]

a 10mm open closed end wrench is a better option for sinking the pistons down Knuck, the business cards between the rotor will help, but there might be a small amount of drag still.

 

[me89]

something else to do is loosen the screws that mount the caliper to the frame and fork squezze the levers HARD and tighten the screws. if this doesnt fix it then go with what everyone else has told you but that has always worked for me but i have never had a problem with them locking up just a little bit of drag so if it doesnt work go with what they all said.

 

[greenreese]

something else to do is loosen the screws that mount the caliper to the frame and fork squezze the levers HARD and tighten the screws. if this doesnt fix it then go with what everyone else has told you but that has always worked for me but i have never had a problem with them locking up just a little bit of drag so if it doesnt work go with what they all said.

You have to reset the pads first and then squeeze the lever a few times, not just once. Then hold the lever down while you tighten down the bolts. Switch back and forth between the bolts when you tighten them down, this keeps the caliper from turning out of alignment.

-dAn

 

[Dartman]

Oh I gotcha, use the old pads so I don't score the pads with the screw driver. Do you suggest taking the pads out and pushing the pistons in. Also, do you have to loosen the caliper bleed screw before pushing the pistons in?
Thanks for the help man/men.
Knuck

Not just score the pads, you could crack the brake material off the backing plate. Be very careful pushing the pistons in without the pads. The post that holds the spring on the pads is easy to break off and you'll need a caliper rebuild. I guess I would just hook up the hose at the lever/master cylinder and push back the pistons in the caliper then close up the master cylinder.

Mike

 

[Dartman]

lever adjustment trick worked for me? Oh well.

Not meaning to argue with you but if you think about it turning the lever adjustment just moves the brass nut in or out on the piston shaft. This in turn adjusts the position of the lever relative to the bars. Nothing happens inside the master cylinder to change the volume of the chamber.

 

[dhtahoe]

Have you rode it yet. Sometimes the pads just need to set in. What brand of pads. If they are EBC they tend to be to thick AT FIRST.

 

[Supa8]

Not meaning to argue with you but if you think about it turning the lever adjustment just moves the brass nut in or out on the piston shaft. This in turn adjusts the position of the lever relative to the bars. Nothing happens inside the master cylinder to change the volume of the chamber.

No prob I should have given more detail. I use the lever adjustment out to set the pads after a bleed/pad change. I run my levers way in so when I would go to set the pads the lever would hit the bar. I would have to pump the lever to set the pads/pistons and for some reason it does not seem to work as well as squeezing the lever for 30 seconds as hard as I could with the levers out a bit.