[azonicbruce]

Ok so I finally get the correct spring for my AS-X, but what the heck is up with changing the springs!

I figure you'd have to loosen a couple bolts, swap springs, done deal.

What's the deal? It looks like that one pin/bushing is pressed in the bearings and the shock eye. So I need a special tool just to change a frickin' SPRING!!!

I've read the directions on assembly and

a) NO I don't have an arbor press and
b) NO I don't have a vice w/ aluminum jaws.

Besides, how the heck am I supposed to hold the friggin thing in a vise

:mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble:

 

[Guntruck]

I did mine. Used a hammer and something flat with a hole in it for the pin to hammer on.... its not actually that hard.... just takes time.

 

[azonicbruce]

blame Progressive. You need the progressive tool. give them a call so you don't f ish up.

You've got to be kidding me....how much is that going to cost....and how LONG is it going to take to get here...

 

[Guntruck]

You do not. I dunno what that guy is talking about. Hammer + Time = Job well done.

 

[biggins]

stoney doesnt know what he is talking about. he only rode for yeti bikes. Oh by the way stoney my asx will be here tomorrow.

 

[Jm_]

It's got to be easier than my IH SGS. There's a huge steel axle that has to be pressed out of/into the linkage plates to get the shock on and off. I made my own press to do this with but it ain't ever fun to do this. My bike is not the only one like this, it is fairly common for these types of bikes.

The benefit is that you don't have some dinky little shock-bolt in there that you can easily bend and damage other parts of the bike.

You just have to figure out your priorities and what kind of riding it is you really are going to do on this bike. "Big-hit" and "relatively light" are words that don't really go together (from your original post). We can't really come up with anything conclusive because of this limitation. Suggestions like the giant AC and yeti AS-X are good, the giant is little more of an all-around freerider that can be built pretty light, the as-x is more of a big-hit bike, although it is also very versatile. These are more of a "compramise" though, from what you have given us so far.

 

[Guntruck]

there's a reason why my bikes almost never had mechanicals and I rarely ever had to replace things from reasons other then riding--> that would be using the proper tool for the job. Remember kids, this isn't BMX. Our ish is designed to be worked on by mechanics with proper tools. Not kids in their backyards with 2x4's and hammers.

Kids?? Whatever man. You can act like your a high and mighty mechanic if you want. Press or no press it's not very hard either way.. and both ways work equally well... so what does it matter? End result is the same.

 

[Transcend]

Kids?? Whatever man. You can act like your a high and mighty mechanic if you want. Press or no press it's not very hard either way.. and both ways work equally well... so what does it matter? End result is the same.

wow. Just wow.

A ghetto solution is never the way. You do not simply hit things with a hammer when they call for a press. I guarantee that your shocks/eyelets etc all have way more dings and rounded edges then stoneys now do.

No wonder so many people call and bitch to manufacturers when things break. If your products fails, it is mostly likley user error and lack of maintenance.

Here is the progressive tool for reference.

 

[azonicbruce]

Here is the progressive tool for reference.

Could you give some specifics? O.D.s, I.D.s, and lengths? I highly doubt Progressive will overnight me one of those; I might as well pick those pieces up at Lowe's on my way back from work tomorrow.

 

[Kornphlake]

And you call yourself an engineer??? Get creative with a couple differant sizes of sockets and a c-clamp and you can press those guys out in no time without having to buy any tools, or rig something up from the hardware store. Of course if you end up having to send your shock to progressive for service as many times as I have it might be worth your while to get the right tool as it might be slightly quicker to use.

 

[azonicbruce]

And you call yourself an engineer??? Get creative with a couple differant sizes of sockets and a c-clamp...

No love

That would work too..... if I HAD a C-clamp

Don't worry Dan, I exhausted my engineering juices going through my toolbox and spare parts. I almost made something work with an old skewer but the aluminum tube I had was too soft and collapsed. Then I found a special tool for a Shimano crank that I had that would have worked perfect but I didn't have a bolt long enough to do the job.

So there, I can call myself an engineer now :eviltongu

 

[Echo]

I changed my spring without the special tools and without messing anything up. You gotta be careful though, and have some mechanical inclination.

 

[biggins]

roxors! Get the pics up! I wanna see it! I do highly recomend the 6" setting. At 7" the BB feels REALLY high. I ran the AS-X in 6" with the Dorado as low as I could get it and it was super fun. Took it out on the LAguna trails (search for it, they're BURLY!!) Was most excellent.

so theres no worries about it being able to handle pretty big hits? What about warranty and running a dual crown?

 

[Salami]

How about this tool?

http://www.ctsmtb.com/BushingTool.cfm

 

[biggins]

OR get a rod, 2 nuts, and an Instant pressley.

dude why do you always have to go there? i mean really.

 

[biggins]

so do i get a hoody now that i own a yeti?

 

[James | Go-Ride]

Bruce,
If you have a set of deep sockets and a regular vice you will be able to get the link off the shock very easily. You'll need one to press out the pin and one that's large enough to allow the pin to go past the edge of the bearing on it's way out. If you're still having trouble call Krispy, he'll be here in about an hour.

 

[Tashi]

Man, if I bought every specialized too that I "need" I'd be to broke to ride anything newer than my old Rockhoper. Mabye try this?:

I've never removed a bushing from a 5th but I've always been able to get ones out of Fox's this way:

Use two sockets ("the large one" and "the small one":
-One that has a larger inner diameter than the bushing and sits flat around the shock mount hole. ("the large one")
-Another that has an outer diameter that is just barely smaller than the inner diameter of the shock eyelet but not smaller than the diameter of the bushing. This socket will push the bushing out.

Place sockets on either side of the shock mount. Place in vice (whatever type of grip material you want). Close vice. Slowly, making everything stays lined up. If everything works, the bushing should sress out and fall into the inside of the large socket- you're done!

Disclaimer: Pay attention, shocks are expensive! This advice is based only on experiance with bushings in Fox, Rock Shox rear shocks and Stinky frame bearings/bushings. It's served me well, but I can't take any responsibility for your experiances. It shouldn't cause any problems if you take it slow and think things through before using the vice.

Good luck!

 

[Tashi]

Hey! James cheated, he typed his response at the same time as me!

 

[Transcend]

Man, if I bought every specialized too that I "need" I'd be to broke to ride anything newer than my old Rockhoper. Mabye try this?:

I've never removed a bushing from a 5th but I've always been able to get ones out of Fox's this way:

Use two sockets ("the large one" and "the small one":
-One that has a larger inner diameter than the bushing and sits flat around the shock mount hole. ("the large one")
-Another that has an outer diameter that is just barely smaller than the inner diameter of the shock eyelet but not smaller than the diameter of the bushing. This socket will push the bushing out.

Place sockets on either side of the shock mount. Place in vice (whatever type of grip material you want). Close vice. Slowly, making everything stays lined up. If everything works, the bushing should sress out and fall into the inside of the large socket- you're done!

Disclaimer: Pay attention, shocks are expensive! This advice is based only on experiance with bushings in Fox, Rock Shox rear shocks and Stinky frame bearings/bushings. It's served me well, but I can't take any responsibility for your experiances. It shouldn't cause any problems if you take it slow and think things through before using the vice.

Good luck!

This is EXACTLY what the progressive tool is like, in essence. It simply uses shiny brass parts and comes in a plastic bag. It isn't so much a "special tool" as it is simply just not a hammer and a hunk of steel. Don't hit an expensive piece of equipment like a shock with a hammer!

 

[azonicbruce]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Too bad I can't check here more often

Here was my version:

For future reference of any AS-X owner, here is the "tool list":

*5/16"-18 UNC Socket Head Cap Screw - 2.5" long (3" would be better but was out of stock)
*5/16"-18 UNC Hex Nut - Flange Head would eliminate need for smaller washer below
*1/2"I.D. x 5/8"O.D. x 1" Steel Spacer
*6/16"I.D. x 1-3/8"O.D. x 3/32" Thick Washer - Thicker would be even better
*11/32"I.D x 15/16"O.D. x 1/16" Thick Washer
*Other tools - Allen key, crescent wrench and/or socket
*Cost: $2.70 at Lowe's; less if you live in Oregon and don't pay Sales Tax! :devil:

Make sure to use grease, and spring change will take less than 10 minutes

Thanks again everyone, and good luck to the rest of you AS-X owners. Happy Trails!

 

[azonicbruce]

A few more notes:

All you need to do to change the spring on the AS-X is get the pin past the first bearing. After that, the rest of the assembly slides out (assuming you've already loosened the bolt to the bearing assembly).

The pin slides right out of the bushing in the eye of the 5th shock (as mentioned abover). No need to use the "press" to do this work.

I can list disassembly procedures but I'm tired right now, I'm sure you're all smart enough :dancing: